General 2010 Fiat Panda - Parts recommendation

[JoleePando]

If asking breakers for a bumper, also ask for the reinforcement. They are easy to remove/refit, once the bumper is off. Bumper is also fairly easy. Screws along the bottom, inside the wheelarch, and across the top under the grille. Not heavy, but a bit wobbly, especially yours now.

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Mentioned previously, but now I've finally got a bumper, I'll be replacing the, crash bar at the same time.

Is there any particular size of spanner/screwdriver/whatever else needed for the crash bar? I saw some diagrams, but I wasn't entirely sure of the size of the bolts keeping it secure.

 

[koalar]

No idea

Mine are standards bolts

If I was to hazard a guess 13mm socket

Some of the bumper/grill require a torx possibly T30 but it too cold and dark for me to go out and check

 

[JoleePando]

Bumper update.

Managed to get everything round the wheel arch and bonnet removed. However, all the screws on the bottom of the car are so rusted (and likely removed previously) so struggling to get them off. Ended up ripping the head off a torx screw on the bottom by pushing too hard/using the wrong equipment.

So the next thing is to either get better tools or a mechanic has recommended splitting the bumper where the holes are, cut slots on the new bumper, and then slide that over the bolts. Then I'd use self-tapping screw to secure it.

 

[koalar]

Unfortainly that's normal

Siezed O2 Sensor | FIAT Panda (Mk3)

I used a piece of 18 x 28 wood batten cut to the width of the battery top. The strap was a bit too tight so cut bits off the end until the strep pulled up without being stained. If you dont like the looks of bare wood just waft it over with Halfords black rattle can.

www.fiatforum.com

Both me and @irc normally end up drilling them out, but we are put the bumper back

As you have a replacement bumper you have options of cutting them out

I suspect a multi tool would be quite effective although I haven't tried myself

 

[irc]

As above, drilling seems to be the least bad way (unless someone has a better method that they are keeping to themselves). The key is to use REALLY good drill bits (split point cobalt ones are my go-to) and use a low speed on the drill, not too much pressure, and good lubrication.

By all means sacrifice the old bumper to get it off, but that still leaves the old screws going into the radiator support panel, with restricted space to cut them.
From vague memory of removing a bumper that someone had smashed completely, even with the old bumper bits removed you still hit the snag of the collar on the bolts being too wide to go through the holes in the bumper support panel.

 

[JoleePando]

Thanks for the advice, folks. I'll have to look into borrowing tools for the job.

I'm also wondering if it's worth taking the plunge and getting the Halfords Advanced set to see if better tools will provide more torque to get the screws off. It's tough telling if it's just not enough torque, or if it is as above and it's simply seized.

 

[porta]

As above, drilling seems to be the least bad way (unless someone has a better method that they are keeping to themselves). The key is to use REALLY good drill bits (split point cobalt ones are my go-to) and use a low speed on the drill, not too much pressure, and good lubrication.

By all means sacrifice the old bumper to get it off, but that still leaves the old screws going into the radiator support panel, with restricted space to cut them.
From vague memory of removing a bumper that someone had smashed completely, even with the old bumper bits removed you still hit the snag of the collar on the bolts being too wide to go through the holes in the bumper support panel.

I saw a YouTube video where they drilled them out then put those screw in plastic plasterboard anchors, they secured them in place with plumbers plastic chemical weld

 

[koalar]

Impossible for us to tell from here

My 05 and 06 were rusted
My 11 will come apart

I have cheap sets

Then buy quality tools seperately as needed.

Most of expensive sets sit unused

I suspect you will end up drilling them out in the end

 

[JoleePando]

A quick update.

I've finally got the Panda back on the road. I had to weight up the amount of time it'd take to I'd do it myself (plus buying tools) vs. the cost of paying a professional to do it. Paying the professional won in the end.

It cost a chunk but equally, I got the car for an absolute bargain and managed to get various things done myself or by people doing homers. It's all been a learning experience, and even just knowing where my skills lie and what I can conceivably do by myself has been worth all the trouble.

Now it's time to hop in the Panda, head down south, and hopefully that'll be me for a while (or a month).

 

[JoleePando]

A further update since January, the wee Panda is still going strong with not one issue.

Parked beside a 100HP owner in a car park the other day, ended up chatting to him about the Panda. I don't know why, but everyone (inlcuding me) that owns a Panda, wants to chat about their Panda - haha! They're not the prettiest, they're not the fastest, but boy do they have charm!

Going to keep my eyes peeled for either a newer model Panda, 100HP or 4x4 next and perhaps sell on my current car now that it's in full working order.

All in, I spent £1500 on the purchased of the car and all necessary repairs. I'm happy with that purchase.

 

[JoleePando]

Hi folks,

Back again to discuss some small Panda issues.

Just replaced the battery at the weekend which, although needed to be done, turns out didn't completely get rid of the issues I have at startup, though it does appear to be running a bit better.

At startup, sometimes when turning the key, it won't start immediately. And when it does start, there's a kind of rasping noise as if it's gasping for air!

Anyone have any thoughts on what could be the issue? I can try to get a video of the startup noise if necessary.

 

[koalar]

Probably starting on two cylinders
When were the plugs last changed
What's the state of the throttle body/MAP sensor/ breather tubes

 

[JoleePando]

Probably starting on two cylinders
When were the plugs last changed
What's the state of the throttle body/MAP sensor/ breather tubes

I changed the plugs and the coils last year around September time, so hoping it's not that.

Unsure, I'd need to get a proper look at things.

I've used Multi ECU previously, so I'm going to try to get it going again to see if there are any errors as well. I tried to get it working the other day and although it connected, it wasn't showing a lot of information. In hindsight, I should have wrote down my exact process to get it to connect last time - haha!

 

[koalar]

Pull the air box off carefully
Post photo looking down the throttle body

 

[portland_bill]

I changed the plugs and the coils last year around September time, so hoping it's not that.

Unsure, I'd need to get a proper look at things.

I've used Multi ECU previously, so I'm going to try to get it going again to see if there are any errors as well. I tried to get it working the other day and although it connected, it wasn't showing a lot of information. In hindsight, I should have wrote down my exact process to get it to connect last time - haha!

See post #5 of this thread: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/fiatecuscan.352156/
Hopefully that helps connect.

 

[JoleePando]

After getting on the road recently, something went BANG and I knew immediately it was the backbox. £95 later and I'm back on the road.

However, when it was up on the ramp, noticed the back axle has some nasty corrosion on it, so I need to get it replaced.

It's going to be costly (not crazy, around £400), though I'm trying to decide if it's worth fixing or best to sell up (with the caveat the back axle needs replaced) and look for bigger, brighter things. Perhaps a Fiat Panda Lounge!

What are peoples thoughts on this one?

 

[koalar]

You need to inspect it carefully

If it just scabby the normally carry on for a number of years


If it down the weld joint, and seriously weekend it, then the options are more limited


Repair or replace


Guess it's down to

Which engine, model, year

It would be quite expensive to replace a diesel, 4x4, 100hp or dualogic

The rest of the cars condition,

And so on

 

[JoleePando]

You need to inspect it carefully

If it just scabby the normally carry on for a number of years


If it down the weld joint, and seriously weekend it, then the options are more limited


Repair or replace


Guess it's down to

Which engine, model, year

It would be quite expensive to replace a diesel, 4x4, 100hp or dualogic

The rest of the cars condition,

And so on

It definitely needs to be replaced, but the rest of the car is in fairly good nick, besides a few minor things which seem to happen with Pandas in general.

I think it's simply the thought of pulling the trigger to go and get another one, though needs must sometimes!

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

It definitely needs to be replaced, but the rest of the car is in fairly good nick, besides a few minor things which seem to happen with Pandas in general.

I think it's simply the thought of pulling the trigger to go and get another one, though needs must sometimes!

I'm looking at replacing Becky's rear axle (2010 1.2 dynamic eco) as she's now had an "advisory" on it for the last 2 MOTs. If you're doing it yourself then it's reasonably cheap as pattern made axles are available from the likes of I M Axles: https://www.imaxle.co.uk/new-fiat-panda-axle at very affordable prices and you don't need to take labour costs into account. If paying someone else to do it then you need to think very carefully. The problem is you're likely to find multiple fixings so badly rusted you may have to destroy them to remove them. The big nuts - 4 on either side - which hold the stub axle assemblies to the axle, brake pipes and flex hoses, etc. I asked my local wee Fiat guy how much he might charge and he said it's impossible to give a firm quote. He'd charge it on a time spent basis and he doubted whether it would come out under around £600.

 

[JoleePando]

I'm looking at replacing Becky's rear axle (2010 1.2 dynamic eco) as she's now had an "advisory" on it for the last 2 MOTs. If you're doing it yourself then it's reasonably cheap as pattern made axles are available from the likes of I M Axles: https://www.imaxle.co.uk/new-fiat-panda-axle at very affordable prices and you don't need to take labour costs into account. If paying someone else to do it then you need to think very carefully. The problem is you're likely to find multiple fixings so badly rusted you may have to destroy them to remove them. The big nuts - 4 on either side - which hold the stub axle assemblies to the axle, brake pipes and flex hoses, etc. I asked my local wee Fiat guy how much he might charge and he said it's impossible to give a firm quote. He'd charge it on a time spent basis and he doubted whether it would come out under around £600.

Yikes - yeah, £600 is getting into the point where it’s likely not worth it. It wasn’t caught as an advisory on my MOT, but when the back box went, the guy at the garage (someone I believe you recommended) had a look and noticed it wasn’t looking great

Equally, looking at cars of similar age and I’m wondering if I’m going to run into the same problem.

I had a look at 10 today online and 5 of them had advisories for the rear axle.

This job would definitely be out of my wheelhouse which is why I’m stalling and weighing up my decision.