Technical wiring loom plug damaged - Lambda sensor

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Technical wiring loom plug damaged - Lambda sensor

domll

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Hi, I'm having problems with Lambda sensor plug (loom side) in my 2002 1.2 8v Punto following MOT, the pins do not stay in the plug but keep slipping out.

Anyone know if it is possible to purchase plug kit to repair?

Would go to scrappy to salvage if i could but, they all seem to be shutting down and no yard local anymore.

appreciate any advise.
 
Hi, I'm having problems with Lambda sensor plug (loom side) in my 2002 1.2 8v Punto following MOT, the pins do not stay in the plug but keep slipping out.

Anyone know if it is possible to purchase plug kit to repair?

Would go to scrappy to salvage if i could but, they all seem to be shutting down and no yard local anymore.

appreciate any advise.

My local car supplier has 4 pin plugs which are very similar looking to the original plugs. But you would have to crimp the wires in place. Bosche dont recommend soldering because they say the oxygen has to also travel down between the insulation and the wire.

But I am not sure what you mean by the pins working loose. These plugs are tightly sealed to prevent water getting in from the cable ends?
 
With the Lambda plugged in, 2 wires with there crimped pins on the loom side, slide out of housing. looks like the plastic housing is damaged and unable to retain pins.

Never had problem before MOT, i think when they removed exhaust they damaged plug by either pulling to release or letting exhaust fall to ground..but i can only assume.

This is causing engine management light to come on; i have the 'Multiecuscan' on my laptop and it confirms 'Lambda 1 heater above catalyser' has no signal.
I suspect this is the issue, new Lambda was fitted and same fault exists.

crimping new plug would be no issue, just need to be able to get one :). Is there apart number for these, i'm struggling to find on the internet.
 
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I have an oxygen sensor here from a punto with a Tyco plug on it.

Which has the same letters/code on the plug as this one.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-housings/1361730/

The male end you are wanting is almost certainly this plug

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-housings/3141211/


Of course, thanks judderbar, why i didn't think to check male connector, mine is same. have just ordered the RS female connector.
you can see issue in second picture of pin comming out of housing, same with pin next to it but, i have pushed it in for now:
 

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With the Lambda plugged in, 2 wires with there crimped pins on the loom side, slide out of housing. looks like the plastic housing is damaged and unable to retain pins.

Never had problem before MOT, i think when they removed exhaust they damaged plug by either pulling to release or letting exhaust fall to ground..but i can only assume.

This is causing engine management light to come on; i have the 'Multiecuscan' on my laptop and it confirms 'Lambda 1 heater above catalyser' has no signal.
I suspect this is the issue, new Lambda was fitted and same fault exists.

crimping new plug would be no issue, just need to be able to get one :). Is there apart number for these, i'm struggling to find on the internet.

Take it back to the MOT station and get them to fix it. Why was the exhaust removed, it's not part of the MOT.


Robert G8RPI.
 
Take it back to the MOT station and get them to fix it. Why was the exhaust removed, it's not part of the MOT.


Robert G8RPI.

The pipe exiting catalytic convertor was corroded and blowing, needed to be replaced.
It's been in every day at MOT garage to fix since start of November; when i went to collect car, they were trying to cancel engine management light.

Scan software says it's the 'Lambda 1 heater above catalyser' so, can only guess something went wrong during MOT (was ok when i took it in).

got to admit, getting a little p*****off now so will replace connector myself.
if this fails, will take to a auto-electrician to diagnose, i'm sure MOT garage has no idea what issue is, so will cut my losses with them.
 
Theres been tampering going on here, why is 1 cable longer and heat shrinked?

This has been taken apart at some point, for testing or been wragged

Cut and shut a new connector on
Superseal connectors are done in a slightly different fashion to nornal connectors - check youtube

Ziggy
 
Theres been tampering going on here, why is 1 cable longer and heat shrinked?

This has been taken apart at some point, for testing or been wragged

Cut and shut a new connector on
Superseal connectors are done in a slightly different fashion to nornal connectors - check youtube

Ziggy

I agree Ziggy, MOT garage claimed problem was a 'cut' wire for management light being on so, they rejoined wire by soldering and heat shrinking.
I raised fact that everything was working okay when i brought car into MOT so, must have happened as result of work carried out, they disagreed (didn't expect they would accept responsibility).
the red stuff, no idea what that is, suspect they have tried sealing pin on brown wire without success. thanks for heads-up, have just watch youtube vid.
 
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I agree Ziggy, MOT garage claimed problem was a 'cut' wire for management light being on so, they rejoined wire by soldering and heat shrinking.
I raised fact that everything was working okay when i brought car into MOT so, must have happened as result of work carried out, they disagreed (didn't expect they would accept responsibility).
the red stuff, no idea what that is, suspect they have tried sealing pin on brown wire without success. thanks for heads-up, have just watch youtube vid.

That red stuff. On an 8 valve car there tends to be be an oil leak between the bracket the coils fix to and the rocker cover. So I suppose the stuff we see to the left of your picture is dealing with that. It could be that while working with the coil pack they have crushed that wire? Dunno.

I dont think the stuff on the plug is glue. Going by your picture it is hard to see how your plug is broken. It is a well made plug. The leads are pushed into the plug before the red secondary lock is pushed into place. That secondary lock can be lifted by pushing a small tool into one of those two rectangular holes. It needs a thin rod with a notch cut into the rod so it will catch some part of the inside of the lock. I am supposing with the secondary lock in place you cannot push the leads into place to engage the primary lock. Small job for a competant auto electrician to let you know what is going on there.
 
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At a guess i would say Garage managed to crush the plug..and replaced it with another...which would require using aforementioned thin device to release the pins from the casing.
And a case of heavy handedness which most likely broke the retaining part of the pin, sounds rather like a Garage to avoid getting work done
 
I have an oxygen sensor here from a punto with a Tyco plug on it.

Which has the same letters/code on the plug as this one.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-housings/1361730/

The male end you are wanting is almost certainly this plug

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-housings/3141211/
Hi this is not relevant to the conversation but about a connector. Can you please give ma link with part number for year 2000 punto mk2 ac pressurestat connector.
 
It has modified loom. Now has different dryer bottle and pressurestat. I am going to fit original dryer bottle and pressurestat so need to know the original loom connector

Different looms were made for different manufacturers A/C compressors and condensors and ECU's. It is not as simple as you think. Which is why parts replacement in Europe and the UK is done by vehicle registration number or VIN number.
 
Ok if can provide original connector part number or name, picture may be ill be able to find. Because i need a connector ti fit a original pressurestat. Only the dryer bottle and pressurestat has changed therwfore the connector is the only part they modified
 
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