Technical  Twinair stalling when hot-Help Please!!!!!

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Technical  Twinair stalling when hot-Help Please!!!!!

Joined
Nov 17, 2011
Messages
16
Points
81
Ok, I have searched threads etc but still can't find any really answer I have a 2012 twinair owned for two months 57000m serviced regularly, new stop/start battery, new plugs (correct ones), crank sensor changed, air filter changed.
When I'm driving when the the car is hot, temp gauge at half, when I am coming to a stop from any I dip the clutch and the car stalls i can only stop it by keeping the revs up and then it's still lumpy, really difficult to start normally three full ignition cycles.
After turned off and cooled down starts on the key first time no throttle.
No engine warning lights, electrics still on, have been on diagnostics at a Fiat "specialist" with no joy, stop,start works fine so it's not that.
Any help please???
 
Model
Lounge 0.9 twinair
Year
2012
Mileage
57000
I think I would try changing the oil and make sure its Syntium correct grade. See oif that has any bearing. If not that clean the throttle body and look again at plugs then coils. I would say that things you have changed should be OK but dont rule out bad parts. It sounds electrical type problem initially.
 
I think I would try changing the oil and make sure its Syntium correct grade. See oif that has any bearing. If not that clean the throttle body and look again at plugs then coils. I would say that things you have changed should be OK but dont rule out bad parts. It sounds electrical type problem initially.
Plugs and coils checked, all ok. Oil was correct at last service.I'm not a mechanic ☹️ was looking for the throttle body on the twinair today and got a bit overwhelmed lol can you direct me please??
 
Well you need to get under the cover. The first thing to remove is the little pipe front left. Release is done be squeezing the little grey clop and then carefully pulling the pipe off straight, then The the big clip off the intake pipe the air intake which fixes ot the front cross member then thetwo bolts that hold the air box / engine cover. It will be underneath. Lift the front cof the engine cover and then pull it forwards. I have not done this job on mine TA yet but have done the 1.2 cars. The bolts that hold that cars throttle body only need to be done up finger tight and then a fraction more with a spanner. A cleaner spray should do the trick then leave it to evapourate dry. If tou can locate the body and remove it thats good other wise cleaner spray on its own may help. Clean only with clean lint free rags so as to avoid making dust / bits. A dirty throttle body can and does cause this nasty behaviour in the 1.2 . Always take great care to ensiure no grit at all gets into the air box after the filte it will damage any turbo of fitted. Use a vacuum to clean the whole thing before reassembly. Then throttle body will have wires that need diconnecting usually a yellow clip that needs pulling to unlock and then lever off gently.

If you are not a mechanic it is normally not expensive to get a mechanic to do and should take about 30 minutes
 
Yeah had engine cover off already, air filter replaced, them got a bit lost, happy to do it just couldn't bloody find it!! (Wife is a mechanics daughter so happy to wrench just needs a bit of direction) Thanks for your help.
 
Yeah had engine cover off already, air filter replaced, them got a bit lost, happy to do it just couldn't bloody find it!! (Wife is a mechanics daughter so happy to wrench just needs a bit of direction) Thanks for your help.
Well its definitely under there and behind the engine. Youn remind me I need to check I did the clip up on the air intakeon mine. Thats the worst thing! (No its loose so a job for the morning) Im sure someone with greater experience will be along who can help more soon. I hope you get to the bottom of it.
 
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If it only does it when the engine is hot, it could be a breakdown in the TDC sensor.

You can eliminate a coil or plug by disconnecting an HT lead to one cylinder when the car is being moody (turn it off, disconnect it and then re-start the engine, for safety) and see whether that kills the engine or it keeps going. If it kills the engine, do the same with the other side. If the coils/plugs are both good, then it will continue to run lumpy. If one side doesn't kill the engine but the other one does, then the side that kills the engine is good, and the other side is not doing anything, since the car doesn't run with just that one "ineffective" cylinder.

It could also be a MAP/MAF issue. I'm not familiar with the T/A.. but if it's a wire loop, you can clean it.. if it's a black moulding with a sensor somewhere inside it, it's easier to just buy a new one.

The T/A has funky valve control and a reputation for it to be moody when the (Twin Air system) oil filter gets bunged up.. so the suggestion to change the oil is a good one. There's a "how to" or a piece on removing and cleaning the filter mesh.. I think.. so have a search for that too.


Ralf S.
 
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