Technical Tools for a 16v 1242 cambelt replacement?

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Technical Tools for a 16v 1242 cambelt replacement?

ralphnz

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Where is good to buy - and do I really need?
( I have googled - get a load of Audi stuff)
 
I wouidnt trust it or recommend it..

I did not like the idea of having the responsibility of undoing that cam sprocket bolt and correctly re-tightening it so it would never slip and would never create some horrible situation while somebody else was driving the car.

I do now have a set of cam locking tools and the sprocket holder, but I still would not undo that sprocket bolt unless it was absolutely necessary.
 
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I see your point on the top sprocket..

Its best done that way...as you can then tension the belt correctly without the timing shifting..

There is no key way..this iguess scares people...
Never seen one loosen off anyhow...
 
Yeah, white correction fluid (I don't know how to spell tip-ex LOL)
Anyways that always worked for me, can't say I've ever used cam locks apart from when I did a 3.0 GTV.. That time I locked it up like Fort Knox Hahaha


Blower of many head gaskets
 
Yeah, it was a 'cup' can't remember the number, iirc there was only 500 made. It was an old guy who owned it, never drove it much, but he had a ton of money and a few nice cars and he looked after them, had it from new, lacquer was a mess and it looked like a heap, but boy it could shift and it sounded brilliant :D


Blower of many head gaskets
 
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Yes - the 16v really does need locking tools to time the engine up before belt replacement

you need 2x Cam locking pins
and 2 cylinder height pin things as a bare minimum

Ziggy

I wouidnt trust it or recommend it..

Because its not worth the risk..
Not only that. Its hard to get timing bang on with out the correct tools..

I see your point on the top sprocket..

Its best done that way...as you can then tension the belt correctly without the timing shifting..

There is no key way..this iguess scares people...
Never seen one loosen off anyhow...

Tightening the sprockets back up - do it to factory spec and you should be perfectly fine!

Ziggy
i agree with all this yet in the guides section there is a guide using tipex and kebab sticks for piston hight tools, kebab sticks are not even precision made can be different lengths and be bowed. please go report the guide and share your concerns before some one does serious damage to their engine.
 
I'agree with you there dave,
that Guide as been on here a while now .. iirc.
I'certainly for one..wouidnt follow it,

FWIW.. as ive said before on here.. Buy the correct tool's.
the ones on ebay do the Job..perfectly well..the cheap ones in plastic red box,
(no idont work or trade for the seller!)

£25 or so...use em once and sell em on.

not much lost then,
 
i agree with all this yet in the guides section there is a guide using tipex and kebab sticks for piston hight tools, kebab sticks are not even precision made can be different lengths and be bowed. please go report the guide and share your concerns before some one does serious damage to their engine.

If you are changing the belt on a well running engine using the typex method you have no need to exactly place the pistons level. All you need to do is get the pistons about level to ensure you cannot hit the valves when the crankshaft is rotated anticlockwise 2 teeth so the belt can be fitted with the typex all lined up on the marks and then with the belt fitted, the crankshaft is rotated clockwise to tighten the belt. Precision is not required for this part of the belt replacement using the typex method.
 
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