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1.4 100 HP
Working space at the non-drive end of the engine is very restricted. You can get in with 1/4 drive sockets but they are too weak to remove the engine mount. Bite the bullet, remover the battery box and loosen the gearbox mount. Then the engine lump can be shifted to the gearbox side of the car.
Cam belt covers are a hard and quite brittle plastic each held in place by two screws. One screw is shared so three in total. The front brackets are vulnerable and share one M6 bolt and captive nut. Both of mine was broken on the 100HP. I made new brackets bolted to the covers but its fiddly. Strongly recommend checking before starting the job then you can get replacement covers or plan for the repairs.
The 100HP 1.4 needs the locking kit with screw plugs for the cam, dog bone thing for the crank and the two piston locating pins.
Set the crank so pistons are level and fit the crank lock. Now remove the old cam belt and fit the cam lock. This is much easier than with the belt in place because you can turn the cam to find the locking flat spot. Like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124599863828
Fit the new water pump, tensioner and belt. Now loosen the crank lock's M6 bolt on the tail end. If the crank does not move, the timing is done. If the crank moves, you will have to loosen the cam wheel. You will need a backing bar to stop the wheel turning. Just forcing it off will twist the cam. DONT DO THAT! Loosen the wheel, tension the belt then torque the cam wheel bolt using a reaction bar. I made one from steel bar and two M10 bolts to fit between the wheel spokes.
The auxiliary belt pulley locating dowel is not well defined so take care when refitting the pulley.
The auxiliary belt tensioner has a VERY tight spring. You will need a 13mm combination ring/open spanner and another spanner to extend it. Even then it's hard going.
1.2 - 60
Removing the spark plugs makes it easier to set the crank position, but you might be able to do it with the plugs in place. There is no need to see the clutch flywheel. The crank pulley has a cast mark that's set at 10:00 where it aligns with a mark on the engine block.
As with the 1.4, it's easier if the gearbox engine mount is loosened so the whole lump can shift to that side. Just 1/2" more space is a great help.
The cam belt top cover has four bolts - front is shared, one in middle and one at the engine dip stick bracket. My front shared bracket was fine but its easily broken. The bottom cover has that and just one other bolt so that (weak) bracket is very important.
The cam pulley wheel has a centre pop at 12:00 though mine had already been marked with Tippex. The crank pulley has a pointer which aligns with a mark on the engine block. The belt has marks which supposedly help to get the belt teeth in the right slots. In reality it's easier to fit the belt and tension it. If the Tippex lines-up you are done. If it's out you will need to advance the cam by one tooth before tensioning. It then pulls correct when you set the tension.
The auxiliary belt pulley locating dowel is not well defined so take care when refitting the pulley.
Working space at the non-drive end of the engine is very restricted. You can get in with 1/4 drive sockets but they are too weak to remove the engine mount. Bite the bullet, remover the battery box and loosen the gearbox mount. Then the engine lump can be shifted to the gearbox side of the car.
Cam belt covers are a hard and quite brittle plastic each held in place by two screws. One screw is shared so three in total. The front brackets are vulnerable and share one M6 bolt and captive nut. Both of mine was broken on the 100HP. I made new brackets bolted to the covers but its fiddly. Strongly recommend checking before starting the job then you can get replacement covers or plan for the repairs.
The 100HP 1.4 needs the locking kit with screw plugs for the cam, dog bone thing for the crank and the two piston locating pins.
Set the crank so pistons are level and fit the crank lock. Now remove the old cam belt and fit the cam lock. This is much easier than with the belt in place because you can turn the cam to find the locking flat spot. Like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124599863828
Fit the new water pump, tensioner and belt. Now loosen the crank lock's M6 bolt on the tail end. If the crank does not move, the timing is done. If the crank moves, you will have to loosen the cam wheel. You will need a backing bar to stop the wheel turning. Just forcing it off will twist the cam. DONT DO THAT! Loosen the wheel, tension the belt then torque the cam wheel bolt using a reaction bar. I made one from steel bar and two M10 bolts to fit between the wheel spokes.
The auxiliary belt pulley locating dowel is not well defined so take care when refitting the pulley.
The auxiliary belt tensioner has a VERY tight spring. You will need a 13mm combination ring/open spanner and another spanner to extend it. Even then it's hard going.
1.2 - 60
Removing the spark plugs makes it easier to set the crank position, but you might be able to do it with the plugs in place. There is no need to see the clutch flywheel. The crank pulley has a cast mark that's set at 10:00 where it aligns with a mark on the engine block.
As with the 1.4, it's easier if the gearbox engine mount is loosened so the whole lump can shift to that side. Just 1/2" more space is a great help.
The cam belt top cover has four bolts - front is shared, one in middle and one at the engine dip stick bracket. My front shared bracket was fine but its easily broken. The bottom cover has that and just one other bolt so that (weak) bracket is very important.
The cam pulley wheel has a centre pop at 12:00 though mine had already been marked with Tippex. The crank pulley has a pointer which aligns with a mark on the engine block. The belt has marks which supposedly help to get the belt teeth in the right slots. In reality it's easier to fit the belt and tension it. If the Tippex lines-up you are done. If it's out you will need to advance the cam by one tooth before tensioning. It then pulls correct when you set the tension.
The auxiliary belt pulley locating dowel is not well defined so take care when refitting the pulley.
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