General Throttle body Pedal position sensor 1, sensor 2

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General Throttle body Pedal position sensor 1, sensor 2

Can I take down the body computer to give me visible access?
Not easily

It's fixed into place in different ways

Some use 3 bolts not too bad

But my current car has 3 aluminium rivets which need to be cut then replaced

Most of the wires will have to come off for it to move


This part needs to be lifted up
IMG_20230828_233306.jpg


Then this part needs to be pushed in while pulling the connector upwards, the easiest way I found is to push both sides while pulling up, left handed
Brake got in the way to try right handed

IMG_20230828_233628.jpg


Engine does not run right, engine light comes on


The code does not self clear

As long as the code is present, the car doesn't run right, you can smell petrol

I used an android with car scanner to clear the code, clearing the code was a faf, Unless I pulled the blue tooth elm adaptor out before switching the ignion off it would return, have come across this before

IMG_20230828_193708.jpg
 
Not easily

It's fixed into place in different ways

Some use 3 bolts not too bad

But my current car has 3 aluminium rivets which need to be cut then replaced

Most of the wires will have to come off for it to move


This part needs to be lifted up
View attachment 428865

Then this part needs to be pushed in while pulling the connector upwards, the easiest way I found is to push both sides while pulling up, left handed
Brake got in the way to try right handed

View attachment 428864

Engine does not run right, engine light comes on

View attachment 428866
The code does not self clear

As long as the code is present, the car doesn't run right, you can smell petrol

I used an android with car scanner to clear the code, clearing the code was a faf, Unless I pulled the blue tooth elm adaptor out before switching the ignion off it would return, have come across this before

View attachment 428867
Fantastic pictures and now I can envisage what I am feeling for - thanks.

Once the connector is off I can try to dismount the pedal? I saw in another post that someone had cobbled a flexi extension to do it which I can copy.

Once the damn pedal is off I can see about replacing it.
 
Fingers crossed you will not need to replace it

Pulling the connector off and pushing it back will normally be enough

But afterwards it will need the codes clearing


A normal 3/8 drive socket will not fit, there is a too much of the studs sticking out

I did measure the size, this car they are 10mm

This will not work
S0577.V3.png

You need one of these

Screenshot_20230829_175745.jpg



I am pretty sure my old 2006 was different but it was a few years ago
 
Fingers crossed you will not need to replace it

Pulling the connector off and pushing it back will normally be enough

But afterwards it will need the codes clearing


A normal 3/8 drive socket will not fit, there is a too much of the studs sticking out

I did measure the size, this car they are 10mm

This will not work
View attachment 428890
You need one of these

View attachment 428891


I am pretty sure my old 2006 was different but it was a few years ago
Spoke to a local garage and he has said he can clear the codes so I am taking it there today and we can see what he makes of it.

The car failed with some rust too but the garage that failed it told me they do not do welding whilst the one I am going to does which is why I called in.

There was notice of a loose battery needing attention - my fault because I remove the battery for charging and I omitted to tighten the clamp before going to the MoT - now done.

It failed on no windscreen washers but I added some Autoglym after as it is good stuff and when I tried it later it was blasting away like Billy so who knows!!!
 
Spoke to a local garage and he has said he can clear the codes so I am taking it there today and we can see what he makes of it.

The car failed with some rust too but the garage that failed it told me they do not do welding whilst the one I am going to does which is why I called in.

There was notice of a loose battery needing attention - my fault because I remove the battery for charging and I omitted to tighten the clamp before going to the MoT - now done.

It failed on no windscreen washers but I added some Autoglym after as it is good stuff and when I tried it later it was blasting away like Billy so who knows!!!
Sorry to hear about the corrosion was it near the rear suspention mount caused by a hole at the bottom of the sill.

If so the going rate for, a simple fix of a plate welded over the top around here was £50+ Vat around 5 years ago
 
Sorry to hear about the corrosion was it near the rear suspention mount caused by a hole at the bottom of the sill.

If so the going rate for, a simple fix of a plate welded over the top around here was £50+ Vat around 5 years ago
Yes I think it is that. I'll bear the cost in mind thanks. It was rusty there a few years ago and I treated it but it is a losing battle and I half expected it. I need to hang on to the Panda because it is automatic and like gold plus it has only a low mileage. Also it has a lot of my custom work and finally, I like it - it's an ideal support motor. lol
 
Remeber I struggled to clear the code post 21

I had to clear the code, then pull the odbii scanner out before switching the ignition of, otherwise the code came back


It is possible the pedal has gone
I think he left the car running when he pulled the scanner off.

Well just earlier I managed to get the lead off the pedal and it was fairly easy thanks to your guidance so now to get the pedal off!!

The car goes in for welding and electricals in two weeks. This will mean another MoT with it. The ECU seems to be
 
I have been using something similar to this one, it's permently plugged in


And running free android app called car scanner, not the best but gets the job done

Fits any modern car, worth getting something similar if you have access to an android

Will not work on an iPhone

Saves having to rely on anyone else

Around a £5 and 3 day

Hand held ones are easier to use but 3x the cost
 
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I have been using something similar to this one, it's permently plugged in


And running free android app called car scanner, not the best but gets the job done

Fits any modern car, worth getting something similar if you have access to an android

Will not work on an iPhone

Saves having to rely on anyone else

Around a £5 and 3 day

Hand held ones are easier to use but 3x the cost
I have an OBD2 reader somewhere.

Wahay, I got the lead off the top!!

I am going to try to get the pedal off. I have two weeks to mess with this before it goes to the garage for the rot work and such.
 
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Can you tell me how many nuts are used to hold the pedal in please and where they are orientated? I have removed the one that I can see (bottom left!) and the pedal seemed loose enough to pull off but clearly something more is holding it so is there just a second nut to remove?
 
Can you tell me how many nuts are used to hold the pedal in please and where they are orientated? I have removed the one that I can see (bottom left!) and the pedal seemed loose enough to pull off but clearly something more is holding it so is there just a second nut to remove?
X4

One in each corner

You can see the one top left in post 21
 
Bottom right looks to be the hardest
Once that's done the rest is plain sailing
It is covered in carpet and access is blocked by the fuse array for the car. Getting the carpet out of the way was something I tried today and just gave up. Hehe, there are lots of trim going in the spares box just now!! I really wish I could remove the fuse array - it would give superb access once out of the way.
 
It is covered in carpet and access is blocked by the fuse array for the car. Getting the carpet out of the way was something I tried today and just gave up. Hehe, there are lots of trim going in the spares box just now!! I really wish I could remove the fuse array - it would give superb access once out of the way.
Nothing has to come out on mine, it shouldn't be under the carpet, it just looks like it is

I reached up and could felt the nut and stud but didn't try and undo it, normally if I can reach it I can undo it

If you struggle I can undo mine tomorrow
 
Nothing has to come out on mine, it shouldn't be under the carpet, it just looks like it is

I reached up and could felt the nut and stud but didn't try and undo it, normally if I can reach it I can undo it

If you struggle I can undo mine tomorrow
I can feel the thread of the stud of the top right one but cannot feel a nut. Despite this I have tried to get the socket I used on bottom left to engage top right. Likewise for top left, engaging the nut seems to elude me. The carpet seems to be in the way of bottom right.
 
Well looky here.
Accelerator pedal (2).JPG

There was no nut on the top right but the insert on the pedal makes me think there was one once!!lol.

Accelerator pedal (3).JPG

I had been using a ¼" flexible socket extension as you would expect in tight spaces. I thought about it and found my ⅜" flexible extension had much more bend and I was able to get to the top left nut and get it off. Then guess what, the pedal was free - yes there was no nut on the top right though there may have been in the past.
I am pleased to say I have the pedal on the bench so now I just need advice as to where to go from here please.
 
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