Technical steering box removal

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Technical steering box removal

JakeF

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Hi,

I could not found anything to steering box removal from here.
Before I destroy something I would like to be sure how to correctly remove it.
I have unmounted the 3 bolts holding it to the frame and two which connects to the shafts. I also unbolted the one inside the car, near the floor and pedals.
The two bolts which connects the shafts are quite tight fitting.
Here is a pic about the procedure, how to get it off? :)
 

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Jake,

I only have 30 secs cos I am off to work. Till I or someone can write a proper response, all I can say is put a drip tray under the area and spray something like WD40 around the tie rod ends where they join they steering arm. This may make it a little easiser later.

Do not be tempted to smack the nut or even the threaded section of the tie rod knuckle with a hammer to force it out. All you will do is damage the thread and be up for a new balljoint. A balljoint remover may be the way to go, I will add more tonight if I can.

Joe R
 
Hi Jake, to add to Joe's post, you also need to undo the pinch bolt that clamps the bottom of the steering column to the pinion on the steering box. Also, heed Joe's advice and use a proper ball joint puller. Apart from wrecking the threads on your ball joints if you use a hammer, you will also be directly transferring all that force to the steering box via the drop arm, which will act as a lever and in fact magnify the force applied!
Cheers Roger
 
Hi Jake, to add to Joe's post, you also need to undo the pinch bolt that clamps the bottom of the steering column to the pinion on the steering box.

Roger, Roger - see photos :)

and yes to the ball joint puller too (y)

Chris
 

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Thanks. Found these two ones at the local tool shop?

Any difference?
 

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I have the one one the left, which just managed to remove the ball joints on the idler side (much the same as the steering box side) with the aid of a G-cramp to keep it in place as it keeps trying to jump off! I found it very difficult to get the bolt in perfect alignment with the ball joint. Particularly the track rod joint rather than the tie rod joint - it must be the shape of the idler/steering box arm - can't get the tool in there properly!

It was much easier to remove the idler with the track rod still attached and deal with it on the bench!

Maybe the one on the right would be better?

Just my limited experience!

Ian
 
Bought the left one, lets see how it goes :)
Thanks
 
Jake,

If those are original tie rods, I'd replace them all. Once you get them off the car, it is an easy job.

If you measure everything prior to removal it will give a close estimate when reassembling but you'll still need to get a wheel alignment when you finish.

Chris

Chris,
What do you mean by wheel alignement? I mean how is it done? :eek: I mean is it the chapter "front wheel toe-in"?
 
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You may want to check that the adjuster rods are salvageable - mine were seized solid since they're just split tube and collect loads of crud. They were coroded beyond comfortable repair so I thought it prudent to change everything anyway which made removal of the old rods a lot less stressful.
 
Yep. Got the box off today. The ball joints were not difficult to remove. The puller was very helpful. I will report when I change the rods.
 
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