Technical Smell + noise?

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Technical Smell + noise?

Is there any particular preference on brake disc brand?
ECP sells Brembo's for £50 for the set. Or I can get a set of Febi discs and pads for £50.
They class Febi as 'OE Quality'

Or, Mintex discs + pads for £50.

I figure I may as well change the pads again with the new discs so it's all done properly.

Cheers
 
Is there any particular preference on brake disc brand?
ECP sells Brembo's for £50 for the set. Or I can get a set of Febi discs and pads for £50.
They class Febi as 'OE Quality'

Or, Mintex discs + pads for £50.

I figure I may as well change the pads again with the new discs so it's all done properly.

Cheers
Just my opinion but don't get mintex pads
Last ones I had I really hated.

Discs are much of a muchness , though I do like the anticorrosion painted ones rather than the non painted type that need decreasing prior to use.

My preference to pad is pagid.
Ferodo good.
Brembo good.

Last cheap QH pads are really excellent even though cheap pads.

Drivetec from GSF also surprised me by being good.

Febi I've not tried their pads.

How old are current discs and pads? How many miles?
 
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Brembo are one of the top brake manufacturers more than adequate for the 1.1 or the 1.2 and frankly the 100HP.

Get new discs and pads from Shop 4 Parts. Their website has various options and prices but no clue as to what you're getting for the money. Pick up the phone and ask them.

Saying all that, the last set I fitted came from my local parts supplier, cost 2p and are still on the car 3 years later.
 
I've fitted Brembo pads to my 100HP and they seem to leave a lot of dust, but I've not put many miles on them yet so it could just be part of the bedding in process.
 
When I replaced the old pads, they were very wedged in. Took a fair bit of force to remove.


fairly normal. With corrosion they grow a bit. Nothing a bit of wire brushing won't sort out, or scrap with a screwdriver.


have seen new pads that have had a blob of paint thats needed to be scrapped off before the would fall in nicely.


Everything should slide and fit without any force.
 
fairly normal. With corrosion they grow a bit. Nothing a bit of wire brushing won't sort out, or scrap with a screwdriver.


have seen new pads that have had a blob of paint thats needed to be scrapped off before the would fall in nicely.


Everything should slide and fit without any force.
New pads and discs are ordered, I'll give it all a good clean and wire brush when I take it apart this weekend. Also got some grease coming to do the slider pins. Hopefully that'll sort my problem out!
 
I think I managed to reproduce the strange noise this morning. I was going up a steep hill in a lower gear and it was everytime I pressed the accelerator it started and seemed to stop whenever I released the pedal. Very strange. I couldn't hear it at all yesterday, no matter what I drove up.
Even then, it didn't sound the same as it did the other day from the driver's seat.
 
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I think I managed to reproduce the strange noise this morning. I was going up a steep hill in a lower gear and it was everytime I pressed the accelerator it started and seemed to stop whenever I released the pedal. Very strange. I couldn't hear it at all yesterday, no matter what I drove up.
Even then, it didn't sound the same as it did the other day from the driver's seat.

You seem to have been driving from a seat other than the driver's.

As the engine pulls, the front suspension will flex. As it will on corners. Noises can change dependent on the amount of torque applied, or cornering forces, so uphill may well show noises that do not appear elsewhere.

A visual inspection needs to be carried out after parking. Once stopped, do not reapply the brakes, and once the wheels are off, look and feel without disturbing anything. Any binding should show.

Be certain where the noise is coming from. Many noises can travel, so rear suspension noises appears to be from the front and vice versa. With the noise being more prevalent under power, check the whole exhaust, you are looking for all the mountings to be strong and secure, and the flex joint to be good. Give the silencer a thump to check for rattles inside.

Then have a look at the rear brakes. There are a few springs and bits that can make noises.
 
You seem to have been driving from a seat other than the driver's.

As the engine pulls, the front suspension will flex. As it will on corners. Noises can change dependent on the amount of torque applied, or cornering forces, so uphill may well show noises that do not appear elsewhere.

A visual inspection needs to be carried out after parking. Once stopped, do not reapply the brakes, and once the wheels are off, look and feel without disturbing anything. Any binding should show.

Be certain where the noise is coming from. Many noises can travel, so rear suspension noises appears to be from the front and vice versa. With the noise being more prevalent under power, check the whole exhaust, you are looking for all the mountings to be strong and secure, and the flex joint to be good. Give the silencer a thump to check for rattles inside.

Then have a look at the rear brakes. There are a few springs and bits that can make noises.
I am fairly certain my exhaust has a raspy rattle somewhere - I suspect the backbox. It had a new centre section 6 months ago before I got the car. There is a raspy rattle at low revs and also at idle it comes and goes.
It isn't exactly a loud noise, but either way, when it's up on stands at the weekend I'll give it a good look over.
 
But a rattle in your exhaust does not make one side warmer (hotter) then the other side...

gr J
I know. I think the binding brake is a separate issue. I can definitely smell warm brakes, so I know that it is binding somewhere.
 
Don't get distracted. Binding brakes and rattles elsewhere are not connected issues.


If a brake smells hot, you have either been using it very hard (which would be obvious) or there is problem with pads / shoes binding. A binding front brake will eventually jam solid and the car will not move forward or backward.

You need to get the brakes properly checked and repaired as necessary.
 
Don't get distracted. Binding brakes and rattles elsewhere are not connected issues.


If a brake smells hot, you have either been using it very hard (which would be obvious) or there is problem with pads / shoes binding. A binding front brake will eventually jam solid and the car will not move forward or backward.

You need to get the brakes properly checked and repaired as necessary.
I am going to look at the brakes at the weekend when I fit the new discs and pads.

The wheels don't get 'hot' they get slightly warm, it is more the smell that gives it away. You can smell it in the car when driving sometimes.
 
Going to whip the wheels off tonight to see if it's just the sliders needing greasing, if not, then am I correct to assume it must be the piston sticking? Or potentially the brake hose as mentioned earlier - although, externally they look a lot newer than I'd expect if they were original, so I suspect they've been changed at some point (may be wrong though)
 
I am going to look at the brakes at the weekend when I fit the new discs and pads.

The wheels don't get 'hot' they get slightly warm, it is more the smell that gives it away. You can smell it in the car when driving sometimes.

Tyres always get warm. Perfectly normal.


Binding brakes will cause serious damage if you just keep going. You wont feel the heat unless you can get close enough (or the brakes are about to catch fire). The test is to knock the pad carrier with a solid wood batten (broom handle diameter). Press the batten end onto the brake pads carrier and hit the other end with a hammer.

Drifting, puts the hammer blow where its needed without causing damage. If the pads "free-off", you have proved it's binding. But it will almost certainly jam the next time you use the brakes.
 
Tyres always get warm. Perfectly normal.


Binding brakes will cause serious damage if you just keep going. You wont feel the heat unless you can get close enough (or the brakes are about to catch fire). The test is to knock the pad carrier with a solid wood batten (broom handle diameter). Press the batten end onto the brake pads carrier and hit the other end with a hammer.

Drifting, puts the hammer blow where its needed without causing damage. If the pads "free-off", you have proved it's binding. But it will almost certainly jam the next time you use the brakes.
I didn't mean the tyres, I meant the plastic wheel trim. They get slightly warm to the touch, but not hot.
 
Tyres always get warm. Perfectly normal.


Binding brakes will cause serious damage if you just keep going. You wont feel the heat unless you can get close enough (or the brakes are about to catch fire). The test is to knock the pad carrier with a solid wood batten (broom handle diameter). Press the batten end onto the brake pads carrier and hit the other end with a hammer.

Drifting, puts the hammer blow where its needed without causing damage. If the pads "free-off", you have proved it's binding. But it will almost certainly jam the next time you use the brakes.
I'm not quite sure I follow the procedure that you mean.
 
Also, when I jacked the 'offending' side up, the wheel span very freely, no signs of resistance at the time at all.
 
Just been out and double checked how well they spin. Both sides spin 2-3 rotations before stopping. The side that gets a tad warmer/smells seems to spin a fraction less than the other side. But both are very much free, all I could hear was the sound of the pad slightly touching the disc from when I've stopped the car.
 
Start car press brake pedal firmly.
Stop car
Do wheel spin by hand tests again.
Any difference in result?
 
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