Technical Rear axle wheel spindle studs

[DaveMcT]

My brother has had his 2003 Panda rear axle examined and found the left swing arm is bent (affecting toe angle) and right might have an odd camber. So we are looking at fitting a new axle. IM Axles from Nottingham are the original pattern suppliers but others are now cheaper and probably from the same Chinese factory.

The wheel spindle studs (4 each side) are badly rusted. New studs will be required. They are a fine thread. Can anyone confirm if its M10 fine? EPER is no help and I don't want the car off the road for days while the correct bolts arrive.

M10 fine is my best guess as the exposed threads are rusty - wont let me try a nut for fit and I can't get access to use a thread gauge.

Can anyone confirm if the rear spindle studs are M10 fine?

 

[irc]

Hi @DaveMcT
Stud part number is 51856961, and thread pitch is 1.25.

 

[DaveMcT]

Thanks. I found the part on EPER but there is no size data. M10 x 1.25 is standard stuff. Thanks again.

 

[koalar]

Worth giving the dealer a ring they were £1.73 each in 2017

 

[DaveMcT]

I've found some 12.9 bolts that work out to £17 for ten. To my mind, bolts make more sense than studs as exposed thread corrosion is such as issue. Whatever happens, the rusty old studs will be "interesting" to remove.

I scrapped the Multijet axle. A big mistake as I should have saved the hub spindles. For something used on so many cars, they are shockingly expensive to replace.

 

[BikeMike]

I've found some 12.9 bolts that work out to £17 for ten. To my mind, bolts make more sense than studs as exposed thread corrosion is such as issue. Whatever happens, the rusty old studs will be "interesting" to remove.

I scrapped the Multijet axle. A big mistake as I should have saved the hub spindles. For something used on so many cars, they are shockingly expensive to replace.

I'm in a similar situation to you regarding a new rear live axle.
I managed to remove the stub axles (which on eper are called steering knuckles)
and some nuts came off of the studs but the lower pair of nuts brought
the studs along for the ride ! This happened on both sides of the car. I'm not going
to use new studs , instead I've bought the hi-strength flange bolts shown below.

 

[DaveMcT]

When I did the 100HP axle the stud threads were wire brushed as best as possible (ie not very well) and soaked in easing oil. Some unscrewed the nut others the stud and two spun the nuts part way out. I had to drill the nuts to split them.

HT bolts look like the best solution. Ideally plated bolts but plastic caps might keep the weather off.

 

[BikeMike]

When I did the 100HP axle the stud threads were wire brushed as best as possible (ie not very well) and soaked in easing oil. Some unscrewed the nut others the stud and two spun the nuts part way out. I had to drill the nuts to split them.

HT bolts look like the best solution. Ideally plated bolts but plastic caps might keep the weather off.

Once I get the bolts I'll refit the stub axles , torque them up then paint the entire
rear surface and the bolt heads with buzzweld chassis paint.

 

[DaveMcT]

I had the 100HP axle zinc metal sprayed, appropriately primed and painted. It's overkill but not expensive and it will never need anything more.