Technical Panda newbie with running issues

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Technical Panda newbie with running issues

Joined
Jan 27, 2025
Messages
14
Points
54
Location
London
Hi there, newbie to the panda life and already enjoying it, however I don’t think my panda is running correctly.

So I bought panda on Sunday and I was told that it had an ignition coil pack connector problem causing a misfire. I have no connected a new connector and fitted new coil packs (both) I’ve serviced the panda with new air filter, oil change and new oil filter.

after carrying out these works the engine was running really poorly I’ve tried to upload a video


I drive to work today the misfire is still there. 1st and 2nd gear fine small amount in 3rd gear, mostly in 4th gear while accelerating and especially in 5th gear it feels like it goes into limp mode and I have now acceleration speed just maintains, blipping the throttle can bring its back. But sometimes doesn’t meaning I have to change down gear to build the revs back up and then it feels like it boost not a good boost 😂

Please any advice would be appreciated I spoke with an auto electrical specialist today who my dad has used before and he said this I a common fault and they are a nightmare to diagnose. So I’m really hoping you guys can help and I may be able to do the work myself before taking to the specialist. And hopefully we can save my panda :)

Thanks in advance!!!
 
Model
Active 1.1
Year
2007
Mileage
70185
Do you have a scantool
Do you have an engine light come on on the dash
Does it feel like it's idling smooth, when sitting in the car
Apart from the seller telling you it's got an ingnition fault is there any evidence

Do you do your own repairs

I can't hear a misfire in the first video clip listening on my phone, but it can be deceptive, these engines run fairly smooth on 3 cylinders, can't play the second the site running slow


Lots of things cause bad running, maybe we need to start from the beginning


Do all the plugs look there same, photo in order may be able to determine which isn't firing

What's it look like looking down the throttle body is it fully of mayo

Is there. Oil in the MAP sensor, common one bolt to check
 
Last edited:
All good starting points above. You don't say the year of the car or the engine size e.g. 1100/1200 and what's the mileage.
The 1100 suffered from wiring problems on the ECU connectors.
 
Finley maged to get to view the second video

Yep not running on all the cylinders

When it's failing

First thing you need to work out is which cylinders aren't producing much power


If it's cylinders

1 and 4
or
2 and 3

Check if they are getting a spark


If it's 1 and 2 failing

Get a compression test done
 
Finley maged to get to view the second video

Yep not running on all the cylinders

When it's failing

First thing you need to work out is which cylinders aren't producing much power


If it's cylinders

1 and 4
or
2 and 3

Check if they are getting a spark


If it's 1 and 2 failing

Get a compression test done
Thanks so much for the response!!! I’m away for a week tomorrow but when I get back I’ll check which ones aren’t getting spark and try and get it booked in for a compression test.

Honestly can’t thank you enough for the responses most forums you don’t get any reply so thanks again

Mikey :)
 
All good starting points above. You don't say the year of the car or the engine size e.g. 1100/1200 and what's the mileage.
The 1100 suffered from wiring problems on the ECU connectors.
It’s a 2007 1.1 active with 70,185 miles :)
 
Thanks so much for the response!!! I’m away for a week tomorrow but when I get back I’ll check which ones aren’t getting spark and try and get it booked in for a compression test.

Honestly can’t thank you enough for the responses most forums you don’t get any reply so thanks again

Mikey :)
No need for a compression test yet

Coils are shared

1 and 4
2 and 3

Either of these combination would point to an ignition problem, which can be confirmed by link 2 above

Only if it 1 and 2 failing as between 1 and 2 is by far the most common head gasket failure point, a compression test, would save trying to eliminate everything else

Open, short or no volts, in the ignition control wires should be seen by the ECU and pop error light on the dash

It's not 1 cylinder misfire as it should idle quite smoothly on 3 cylinders, doubt it's running just on 2 cylinder as the idle will hunt up and down and shake even more violently

Could be loads of fould plugs, MAP, HT and so on

It's about stepping through an eliminating or confirming as much as possible
 
1.1 has a known issue with the ECU wiring connector. Try (carefully) strapping it down with a couple of zip cable ties.

If one coil has gone down, just replace the pair. Parts are very cheap.
 
No need for a compression test yet

Coils are shared

1 and 4
2 and 3

Either of these combination would point to an ignition problem, which can be confirmed by link 2 above

Only if it 1 and 2 failing as between 1 and 2 is by far the most common head gasket failure point, a compression test, would save trying to eliminate everything else

Open, short or no volts, in the ignition control wires should be seen by the ECU and pop error light on the dash

It's not 1 cylinder misfire as it should idle quite smoothly on 3 cylinders, doubt it's running just on 2 cylinder as the idle will hunt up and down and shake even more violently

Could be loads of fould plugs, MAP, HT and so on

It's about stepping through an eliminating or confirming as much as possible
Amazing I will check this once I’m back, I believe it could be 3 and 4 as in the video when it changed from rough to smooth the only difference is I pushed down on the 3rd ht lead plug on then coil pack.

After that it ran smooth, I did try to replace the spark plugs the other day but even tho I put my reg in GSF car parts website they still provided the wrong plugs.

But before I return and get the right plugs I will do the test in the videos you linked to try and find the problem.

Thanks
 
1.1 has a known issue with the ECU wiring connector. Try (carefully) strapping it down with a couple of zip cable ties.

If one coil has gone down, just replace the pair. Parts are very cheap.
Thanks I will try to carefully secure the ecu wiring as well, I have already replaced the coil packs and put a new connector on as that was what the guy I bought it off told me was the problem :)
 
Basically, there is a known problem with the 1.2 ECU wiring loom or connector or maybe the ECU itself. The Forum Search throws up a rabbit hole of interlinked partial information. Hopefully someone who has fixed this can help with actual information.
 
The same loom (55191039 I think) was used on the 1.1 and 1.2 (non-aircon) Pandas for a while, but problems seem to only occur on 1.1 Active Eco models.
Maybe the routing is worse or there is more vibration?
I've swapped a loom from a scrap 1.2 to a 1.1 and cured a similar problem, but that was specifically an instance of broken wires followed by ham-fisted butchery (not me!)
There are many other potential causes though.
 
Hi guys,

After a little bit of time away I’m determined to get this panda sorted I bought a code reader and yesterday I plugged it in and had code p0351 having already replaced the coil packs, I cleared the code. Hoping that would clear the EML light which it did, however now the EML light is flashing.

I have also checked the ecu for a bent prong and everything looks fine, I have stripped back the wiring loom hoping to find a stripped wire but nothing, all the wiring looks good and if Im
Honest she is running really nicely.

I also clean the negative earth points to the battery.

Does anyone know a way to reset the flashing EML light as nothing shows up on my code reader. If anyone has any other ideas please let me know.

Thanks :)
 
Hi guys,

After a little bit of time away I’m determined to get this panda sorted I bought a code reader and yesterday I plugged it in and had code p0351 having already replaced the coil packs, I cleared the code. Hoping that would clear the EML light which it did, however now the EML light is flashing.
Great we have a starting place

P0351-00-IGNITION COIL 1 PRIMARY CIRCUIT

I know the coils are new, but let's check for a fail on fit coil first, faulty new parts aren't unknown and can send you down the wrong hole very easily

Swap the coil over, clear the codes

they can be a little tricky to clear, After clearing you should immediately switch the ignition off and wait 20 seconds to write before starting the car

On one of my cars and one of my reader I have to clear the code, pull the reader out, then switch the ignition off and wait, otherwise it comes back

My feeling is it will be the ultrasonic welded joint on the power feed to the coil, but let check the easy first

What software scanner are you using
 
I’m using a street wise can obii scan tool, very basic from euro car parts,

I switched the coils over yesterday after clearing the codes but nothing changed and no faults came up I was hoping it would.
 
I’m using a street wise can obii scan tool, very basic from euro car parts,

I switched the coils over yesterday after clearing the codes but nothing changed and no faults came up I was hoping it would.
A

Screenshot_20250402-170754.png


B
Screenshot_20250402-170826.png



Which type A or B
 
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