Opinions on this trolley jack?

[bugsymike]

Everything is now back on - except the steering column pinch bolt.

I've tried jiggling it a few degrees this way and that, but nothing is working. I'm not going to try to force it with any tools and will try to get it to drop in, but i'm not hopeful.

Ideas anyone?

View attachment 450355

Get a tippex white mark on the centre of each part and if lined up correctly that bolt will drop straight through 100%
Look at it this way, it came out of there easily once unbolted, nothing has been changed , except how it has been aligned.

 

[The Panda Nut]

It has to be correctly aligned clockwise, so the bolt hole and column shaft groove are lined up, but also on just right in the up / down lline at the same time, for the bolt to slide in. So it is a 3 dimensional puzzle. Be patient and it will drop into place just as you have lost the will to live....

 

[bugsymike]

All done with love and kindness

 

[AnthonyH]

OK I've got the steering column pinch bolt back in!

I managed it in the relative dark, so there's an element of luck to it...

I had to remove the pinch column bolt with a breaker bar and extension at a funny angle, and once i'd taken the bolt out, I immediately lifted the steering column off. In hindisght I should have got the bolt out, then centered the steering, then lifted the steering off. If i'd done that it would have been a lot less hassle to get back on.

I took the car for a little drive around the estate and didn't detect any issues with the suspension or subframe, but I can't confirm its all good until after a longer drive. I did however hear the brakes scraping, they've been sat rusting for a while...I could also hear the exhaust blowing in the engine. I had a blowing exhaust before, so I put a new gasket on the car, but it sounds worse than ever.

The new gasket was slightly bigger see the pictures, but I thought it'd be ok. I've put a picture of the two gaskets on top of each other. Do I have an issue with something else i.e. the exhaust manifold?

 

[The Panda Nut]

OK I've got the steering column pinch bolt back in!

I managed it in the relative dark, so there's an element of luck to it...

I had to remove the pinch column bolt with a breaker bar and extension at a funny angle, and once i'd taken the bolt out, I immediately lifted the steering column off. In hindisght I should have got the bolt out, then centered the steering, then lifted the steering off. If i'd done that it would have been a lot less hassle to get back on.

I took the car for a little drive around the estate and didn't detect any issues with the suspension or subframe, but I can't confirm its all good until after a longer drive. I did however hear the brakes scraping, they've been sat rusting for a while...I could also hear the exhaust blowing in the engine. I had a blowing exhaust before, so I put a new gasket on the car, but it sounds worse than ever.

The new gasket was slightly bigger see the pictures, but I thought it'd be ok. I've put a picture of the two gaskets on top of each other. Do I have an issue with something else i.e. the exhaust manifold?

View attachment 450362

View attachment 450363

Find the correct sized gasket. It needs to be exactly right.

 

[AnthonyH]

Find the correct sized gasket. It needs to be exactly right.

I'll get one today. When I put the new gasket on I'll check everything is OK and take some pictures for posterity.

I took the car for a longer drive and its handling just fine. The thing I have noticed is that the steering wheel is now slightly off centre when I'm driving straight. Its nothing major, about 5 degrees, is that something to do with the alignment?

 

[Bonefish Blues]

I'll get one today. When I put the new gasket on I'll check everything is OK and take some pictures for posterity.

I took the car for a longer drive and its handling just fine. The thing I have noticed is that the steering wheel is now slightly off centre when I'm driving straight. Its nothing major, about 5 degrees, is that something to do with the alignment?

Yep

 

[The Panda Nut]

That bolt.... You need to have another go.
This time. pull up straight!
Take it out again
disconnect the joint
straighten the steering
put the shaft back keeping the steering straight
put the bolt back

Take a note of how far the joint goes down the shaft before you start. It will make things easier.

You can leave if but it messes up the indicastors which my not cancel, or may be diffcult to operate withe the wheel misadjusted. Probably MOT fail if far out too.

good luck.

 

[AnthonyH]

That bolt.... You need to have another go.
This time. pull up straight!
Take it out again
disconnect the joint
straighten the steering
put the shaft back keeping the steering straight
put the bolt back

Take a note of how far the joint goes down the shaft before you start. It will make things easier.

You can leave if but it messes up the indicastors which my not cancel, or may be diffcult to operate withe the wheel misadjusted. Probably MOT fail if far out too.

good luck.

Ahh, so its not alignment, its...i'm not sure what to call it. Faffing around with the steering lol. I could just leave it because its not out by much, but I'll have another go at it. Its not messing with the indicators etc.

I had another drive in it. This time to the recycling centre to get rid of the old subframe, I tripped over it and bruised my ankle. It was like the subframe saying you don't want me? Take that lol.

I'm not done with the car yet. There's a few bits and pieces - steering, exhaust gasket, check all bolts. Anything else?

 

[The Panda Nut]

Ahh, so its not alignment, its...i'm not sure what to call it. Faffing around with the steering lol. I could just leave it because its not out by much, but I'll have another go at it. Its not messing with the indicators etc.

I had another drive in it. This time to the recycling centre to get rid of the old subframe, I tripped over it and bruised my ankle. It was like the subframe saying you don't want me? Take that lol.

I'm not done with the car yet. There's a few bits and pieces - steering, exhaust gasket, check all bolts. Anything else?

I cant count the number of times cars have taken revenge on me!!

 

[AnthonyH]

I cant count the number of times cars have taken revenge on me!!

LOL, ah yes, you've made me think of all the scratched arms and hands i've got!

 

[Bonefish Blues]

Are we sure it's that bolt? I just had an inner tie replaced and the steering wheel came back on the wonk. Now corrected after alignment.

 

[AnthonyH]

I really don't know with any certainty. But the youtube vids i've just watched all said change the outer tie rod or inner tie rod. Until I watched those I didn't know that the inner tie rod could be adjusted for partial turns.

I think I'll change the outer tie rod unless someone knows better?

 

[AnthonyH]

This Youtube video says re-do the steering column by taking the pinch bolt out. So might do this after all.

 

[bugsymike]

Personally if you have the steering shaft happily on it's spline and secured I would leave it where it is.
However if you take it to a "good" wheel alignment specialist to get the steering/wheel alignment spot it is quite practical to turn very slightly more or less on one side to correct the steering wheel at the same time as making the alignment precise. I have done this many times.
In simple terms once alignment is correct, then by turning on one side track rod end and off on the other side you can move the steering wheel to the correct position without changing wheel alignment.
i.e. one turn off on one side and one turn on , on the opposite side. This is common practice where steering columns have a master spline.

 

[AnthonyH]

Personally if you have the steering shaft happily on it's spline and secured I would leave it where it is.
However if you take it to a "good" wheel alignment specialist to get the steering/wheel alignment spot it is quite practical to turn very slightly more or less on one side to correct the steering wheel at the same time as making the alignment precise. I have done this many times.
In simple terms once alignment is correct, then by turning on one side track rod end and off on the other side you can move the steering wheel to the correct position without changing wheel alignment.
i.e. one turn off on one side and one turn on , on the opposite side. This is common practice where steering columns have a master spline.

I'm still musing the possibilities. One thing that does come to mind is that the original outer rods had 13 thread turns one side and 15 on the other. I decided to equalise these at 14, and I think this is responsible for pushing the steering wheel off slightly. The new exhaust gasket has arrived so I'll be under there tomorrow and may put the outer rods back at 13 and 15.

I've been looking at mobile car alignment companies but not found anything suitable yet. I don't want to take it to a garage.

 

[bugsymike]

I'm still musing the possibilities. One thing that does come to mind is that the original outer rods had 13 thread turns one side and 15 on the other. I decided to equalise these at 14, and I think this is responsible for pushing the steering wheel off slightly. The new exhaust gasket has arrived so I'll be under there tomorrow and may put the outer rods back at 13 and 15.

I've been looking at mobile car alignment companies but not found anything suitable yet. I don't want to take it to a garage.

I still use a basic Dunlop Wheel Alignment gauge from the 1960s and see a similar version is in the current Sealey tool Catalogue.
I would say however you do it having correct wheel alignment will saving on tyres if nothing else.
It is surprising how far out alignment can be without driver feeling it, especially with power steering.
The thing about wheel alignment is no matter how fancy the equipment is, it is down to the operator how good a job you get.
I have seen fast fit places charge for the job and all that has been done is a guy under car banging a few spanners together!

 

[AnthonyH]

I still use a basic Dunlop Wheel Alignment gauge from the 1960s and see a similar version is in the current Sealey tool Catalogue.
I would say however you do it having correct wheel alignment will saving on tyres if nothing else.
It is surprising how far out alignment can be without driver feeling it, especially with power steering.
The thing about wheel alignment is no matter how fancy the equipment is, it is down to the operator how good a job you get.
I have seen fast fit places charge for the job and all that has been done is a guy under car banging a few spanners together!

I've just googled the Dunlop Wheel Alignment gauge to have a look. Its not impossible I'll find some second hand kit or a new excellent gadget that'll let me do it myself.

I can well imagine the interest wheel alignment has on these forums is due to the cost of tyres being replaced early, so I'm glad of the heads up from yourself and others.

I don't want to take it to a garage because I'm not convinced they'll do a good job. In the not too distant past I paid for new tyres and alignment but upon checking no alignment was done. If I can find a mobile wheel mechanic I can chat to him and watch as he does it.

 

[bugsymike]

I've just googled the Dunlop Wheel Alignment gauge to have a look. Its not impossible I'll find some second hand kit or a new excellent gadget that'll let me do it myself.

I can well imagine the interest wheel alignment has on these forums is due to the cost of tyres being replaced early, so I'm glad of the heads up from yourself and others.

I don't want to take it to a garage because I'm not convinced they'll do a good job. In the not too distant past I paid for new tyres and alignment but upon checking no alignment was done. If I can find a mobile wheel mechanic I can chat to him and watch as he does it.

I think I bought mine from a garage auction s/h some years ago for around £40, but I see the current copy of it at Sealey is over £500!
Many of my tools, I have bought this way when I have been able to get a bargain and they have helped me earn a living, but now like me they are well worn and show it
In fairness I doubt if many mobile mechanics carry wheel alignment gauges with them as often they work at the side of the road and to check wheel alignment correctly it needs to be done on flat level concrete.
All I can suggest is you find a friendly tyre place to do the job , but will let you see the before and after readings through their equipment. You could say you have been let down in the past and that is why you want to see the way it is done. Maybe show them the readings you want to see on the scale as recommended for your vehicle from Forum.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I think I bought mine from a garage auction s/h some years ago for around £40, but I see the current copy of it at Sealey is over £500!
Many of my tools, I have bought this way when I have been able to get a bargain and they have helped me earn a living, but now like me they are well worn and show it
In fairness I doubt if many mobile mechanics carry wheel alignment gauges with them as often they work at the side of the road and to check wheel alignment correctly it needs to be done on flat level concrete.
All I can suggest is you find a friendly tyre place to do the job , but will let you see the before and after readings through their equipment. You could say you have been let down in the past and that is why you want to see the way it is done. Maybe show them the readings you want to see on the scale as recommended for your vehicle from Forum.

I agree with your previous statement about this operation being open to abuse. I think it's often not done properly - although more difficult to "fake" results now with computerized laser aligning tools so always ask for the final readout as proof - Probably the biggest problem from the operator's point of view is seized trackrod ends and/or locknuts and it's really down to whether you end up with a chap who's prepared to persevere or just "bodge" it.

I agree with Mike that you're unlikely to find a mobile mechanic with wheel aligning gear in his van. It's just not a practical thing to undertake at the kerbside. I don't mean it's not the sort of thing you can do at home, it's just there are too many variables for the mobile mechanic. I know some of the lads in this area who work out of vans and they would simply advise going to a workshop who has laser alignment gear. and would probably do this themselves if needed. It's only "Nutters" like us who try to do it at home!

If you really are thinking of giving this a go at home then decently accurate equipment is not cheap and take a bit of getting your head round to use effectively. There is one piece of equipment which is both affordable and accurate whilst being very simple to use: https://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4008/Trakrite-Wheel-Alignment-Gauge I've seen one in use and it prduced pretty good results. If my home made tool didn't work so well I'd seriously consider buying one. It's been around for many years so, if you consider buying one, do a search as there are price bargains to be had.

Edit. If you do buy one the only advice I'd give is to keep it clean when being used and/or in storage. It's workings are very simple being basically two plates with rollers in between. The rollers and plates need to be completely dirt free to avoid them binding. It needs to operate smoothly to get an accurate reading. Keep it clean and it's surprisingly accurate.