Opinions on this trolley jack?

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Opinions on this trolley jack?

By the way, here's Sealey's own product page for the 1153cx which I see they recommend for recovery vehicle use - So probably pretty robust (which is my assessment actually owning one myself). https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637173115/heavy-duty-long-reach-trolley-jack-3-tonne

If you fancy this actual jack then do some research on prices. It's a popular brand and I see some cheaper on ebay. If you look carefully there seems to be the same jack but sold under a different brand name. I wouldn't be surprised if they are one and the same as this would seem to be a far east product rebranded?
 
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I think there is a lower budget area for jacks in which they all seem to be pretty much the same

Looking at your pictures above Jock, your little jack is pretty much the same as the one I have, same as the yellow, red and blue ones you have. Same as the one from Argos etc etc

I just went on machine mart and saw this https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-5-piece-2-tonne-trolley-jack-chock-and-/

Cheaper than the price of the Amazon Jack from a reputable company and reputable brand, this is identical to the set I got 20 years ago.

The stands are pretty good for what they are and the handle gets used for all sorts of things where levering is needed.

As for the Chocs, well I drove over them the first time I used them 20 years ago and threw them in the bin, but if you actually pay attention unlike me in my 20s then they do actually work. The case has kept my jack in pretty good condition and is a handly place to put all those nut and bolts you have left over at the end of any job
 
I was particularly drawn to this thread because I actually have a Sealey 1153:

View attachment 447688View attachment 447689View attachment 447690

You'll notice it's in their original red finish which is what they painted everything until they decided to get "trendy" with your green one _ I think I've seen it in yellow too?

Those of you with "eagle eyes" - apparently eagles have exceptionally good eyesight - will notice the pumping element is missing from this one? So here's the story and along with it some useful advice I hope.

Very many moons ago - some 45/50 years probably - I was building up my home workshop kit. I was getting much more involved in working on cars at home so needed a decent jack but didn't have limitless funds. A very good friend at the time had a small Hilka trolley jack which was light enough to easily manhandle into the boot of the car and was not dissimilar to the wee trolley jack we kept in the breakdown Landrover at work. Although the one in the Landy was an Epco so of much better quality and a lot more expensive.

Anyway I bought a Hilka and here it is with some pictures of the packaging which I recently found tucked away on a shelf I seldom go to:

View attachment 447691View attachment 447692View attachment 447693

You'll notice I've done a close up showing it was made in Taiwan (China). I think this is important because I have come to the conclusion that most of them are, almost regardless of brand name (there will be exceptions I'm sure)

Again, I'm sure those with the eagle eyes will have spotted that the bit where the handle fits is RED! and not blue as in the picture on the package? Well this is where the Sealey 1153 comes in. After many years and a great deal of use this splendid wee blue jack developed a leak from the pumping plunger:

View attachment 447694

The central plunger seems virtually unworn but the barrel into which it fits has worn and the plunger is now a very sloppy fit. In my ignorance I thought I'd be able to buy a new pumping plunger and barrel - you can see the Stilson marks where I attempted to unscrew it - but it wouldn't move so I took the entire pumping element out of the jack:

View attachment 447695

and went round to a local hydraulics shop I've used before to see if he could repair it. "Son", he said - I was about 68 years old at that time but they still all call me "Son"? "Son", he said, "just chuck it away, I've tried getting bits for these many times and they just aren't available". So I thought Ah well, it doesn't owe me anything, I'll just buy a new one. I already had my two "big" jacks by then but it really takes two to lift one of those into a vehicle if you're off on a rescue mission for one of the kids, so I wanted a wee one for those occasions.

I quickly found that my Hilka isn't sold any more - they still do one but the one I saw was smaller and less "capable". You need to look very carefully at closed height and maximum height figures when considering what will meet your needs. Some have good maximum height but get it at the expense of closed height so you can't get them under a low vehicle, especially if you use a sill puck or spacer to protect the sill paintwork.

After quite a bit of research one of the few that fitted my requirements was the Sealey 1153. Sealey is a well enough respected "name" and are sold by my local factor to the trade, so I started trolling through the internet and came up with one on gumtree just a 10 minute away from me. Advertised as "nearly new, used only once" so I rang up and went to look at it. It was a beaut! Still in it's original pretty much undamaged box with not even any dust accumulated on it yet and not even a scratch on the saddle paintwork all up for £30. I was very suspicious, could it be stolen? But the chap, who seemed like a very nice young family man, said "I was intending to save money by doing my own oil changes etc but I hadn't thought it through. I live in a flat with yellow lines all around and heavy traffic, It just didn't work for me. I've got some spanners and an oil drain tub too if you want them". Well no, but I'll take the axle stands if you have them. But no, he didn't have axle stands and was intending to just use the jack! So glad he gave up on the idea!

Anyway, not long after getting the new jack home I thought "Oh dear, that looks like it's got a higher saddle than the old Hilka":

View attachment 447696

And whilst the wheels are bigger the saddles are in fact the same height at rest so it's not a problem. (some of the levers are sticking out the bottom because the pumping element was removed before I took this picture)I then noticed the saddle on the Sealey is slightly smaller in diameter so marginally less stable a platform for a sill puck etc.:

View attachment 447697

Then, on closer examination, I realized the entire pumping element, apart from being red instead of the old Hilka's blue, was virtually identical!

They've changed the oil fill from a screw in plug on the old Hilka:

View attachment 447698

To a rubber plug on the Sealey:

View attachment 447699

And the release valve now has a flattened end rather than a slot and it looks like it's formed simply by stamping it flat in a press rather than it being a machine operation? I've also seen the slotted type with the lugs snapped off. By the way, if you have one of these - of either type - don't be tempted to over tighten them. Damage it in any way and you'll regret it as spares don't seem to be readily available. Doesn't need any more than "nipped up" anyway.

View attachment 447701View attachment 447703

The plunger body looks a little different too, maybe they've modified it to make it last longer than the old type?

The change in the release valve has probably made the lever cheaper to produce too as all they have to do now is squash the end of the tubular handle:

View attachment 447706

However, other than these minor changes the main body of the pumping element is the same, I'd say almost identical even? So, as I prefer the old Hilka anyway, and the other parts of the Hilka are in good serviceable order, I swapped the pumping body complete into the Hilka and it fits like it was originally designed to be there and has been working fine for the last couple of years or so.

So, my conclusion is that these are actually quite good jacks and I was ever so pleased when a neighbour who lives up the road arrived on my door shortly before they moved away and said would you like this:

View attachment 447707

Hang on though, doesn't it look very familiar? Hell yes, It's a yellow version of my old friend the Hilka:

View attachment 447708

Branded Halfords though - still made in China just like the Hilka - Happy days. Would I like it? I almost bit his hand off!

View attachment 447711

It appears that, although not at all a "driveway greasemonkey" he kept a spare set of winter tyres and wheels which he changed over himself. Well, he did it once and said "never again"! so wondered if I'd like the jack as he wasn't going to take it with him!

I'd be unreservedly recommending you buy one of these but they don't seem to stock them anymore damn it! They may have something else though, I haven't looked. Whatever you're buying, turn it over and have a look at that pumping body. I've done this and, on these "mid range" jacks they all look the same! I think they must be "pumping" - pun intended ha ha! - these out by the million and several of the jack manufacturers use them.

Ok, lets try to rationalize some of my thoughts here. First off, if you can afford a more professional jack then definitely go for it. Here's my two big "every day" jacks with the wee Hilka to their left:

View attachment 447710

They are much more robustly built - intended for everyday workshop use of course - and much wider so more stable but I'd still NEVER go under a vehicle supported just on a jack no matter how well made/expensive. However they do cost. The other advantage is that quality bits of kit like this generally have spares available - like seals etc - and I find Machine Mart, who sell the Clarke branded stuff, give good support.

We're considering the more "affordable" options here though and you're not going to buy into support or quality like this at the bottom end of the market. In fact, mostly you'll be buying a "throw away" when it breaks. However these "mid range" Chinese offerings seem to be, within certain limits, up for the "occasional" use you might give it maintaining your own car at home.

The big thing is how much usable lift they give - the important word being "usable" here. This is really down to the length of the lifting arm - by which I mean the distance from the pivot point in front of the operating lever to the middle of the saddle. A short arm can't give a big range of lift - simple as. Some manufacturers advertise "high lift" on these wee jacks but when you look at them the saddle is well above the end of the lifting arm when at rest so the resting height is too high to get under lower vehicles. My wee Hilka has a lifting arm length of 10.5 ins (265mm approx) and a resting height saddle, to ground, of 5" (125mm approx) which means it'll go under anything with 5" ground clearance and jack it up to, a slightly unstable, 17.5" (445mm approx) - these are all actual dimentions taken with my tape measure. I've found this to be very adequate for most common maintenance tasks like brakes, track rod ends, oil changes and checking gearbox oil level, all this sort of stuff. Lets me get the axle stands under easily.

If you look at the big jacks in the last picture above you can see how much wider the wheels are, so they are much more stable and also how much longer the lifting arms are so they can lift higher. The middle jack can lift to 19.25" (485mm aprox) and the low entry jobbie goes to around 20" or 551mm. You can see how it's lifting arm is longer in the picture.

Low entry? exactly what it says, for going under low chassis:

View attachment 447714

In fact the low entry jack has a number of quite nice features in addition to the low entry feature. It's got nylon wheels so is much quieter if I want to trundle it about at unsociable hours - metal wheeled jacks on concrete, slabs, pavers, etc can be amazingly noisy at midnight! It's also got a twin plunger "quick lift to contact" pump which means it only takes a couple of pumps or so to take the saddle from rest up to contact with the chassis where it then pumps normally. Very nice feature to have but not really a "must have".

So where does all this rambling take us? Well, I hope you now have a bit of an insight into these small jacks. I have no experience of the "supermarket specials" and wonder what quality of something at this price point might be - It's definitely going to be a throw away though! The biggest thing I'd have against them though is that the majority of cheaper options, wherever you buy from, don't have much range of lift - short lifting arm length - so will be very limited in what you can do with them. The main thing to look for is resting saddle height (4.5 to 5 inches or around 120mm works for me) and range of lift. so with a resting height of say 5 inches (120mm aprox) your looking for a max height of 16 to 17 inches (420mm aprox).

Bottle jacks? too unstable for me, especially when extended! I'm not a fan of the cheap jacks which come with some vehicles - if they have a jack at all - and would always use wheel chocks and never attempt to jack up on unstable surfaces like gravel and grass etc. even with a decent trolley jack

Lastly. NEVER EVER GET UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED ONLY ON A JACK. All jacks have the potential to collapse or slip and hydraulic jacks, if they suffer a catastrophic hydraulic failure, can collapse very quickly indeed.

Been doing this for too long now and my thoughts are getting confused so going to post this now. I've probably forgotten to mention something though so please do come back on this if you think i can help.
Excellent advice, as ever, thanks!

I also read your guide to jacking which was reposted above, it gave me some good ideas for when I was under the car today.
By the way, here's Sealey's own product page for the 1153cx which I see they recommend for recovery vehicle use - So probably pretty robust (which is my assessment actually owning one myself). https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637173115/heavy-duty-long-reach-trolley-jack-3-tonne

If you fancy this actual jack then do some research on prices. It's a popular brand and I see some cheaper on ebay. If you look carefully there seems to be the same jack but sold under a different brand name. I wouldn't be surprised if they are one and the same as this would seem to be a far east product rebranded?
Looks like this Sealey 1153 has at least one tentative thumbs up?
 
So, what about these jacks? Well, first thing to say is at this price point you're not going to buy something of "professional" quality but, in my opinion, you can buy something worth having although you might get a "bad un" due to less rigorous quality control.

I was particularly drawn to this thread because I actually have a Sealey 1153:

View attachment 447688View attachment 447689View attachment 447690

You'll notice it's in their original red finish which is what they painted everything until they decided to get "trendy" with your green one _ I think I've seen it in yellow too?

Those of you with "eagle eyes" - apparently eagles have exceptionally good eyesight - will notice the pumping element is missing from this one? So here's the story and along with it some useful advice I hope.

Very many moons ago - some 45/50 years probably - I was building up my home workshop kit. I was getting much more involved in working on cars at home so needed a decent jack but didn't have limitless funds. A very good friend at the time had a small Hilka trolley jack which was light enough to easily manhandle into the boot of the car and was not dissimilar to the wee trolley jack we kept in the breakdown Landrover at work. Although the one in the Landy was an Epco so of much better quality and a lot more expensive.

Anyway I bought a Hilka and here it is with some pictures of the packaging which I recently found tucked away on a shelf I seldom go to:

View attachment 447691View attachment 447692View attachment 447693

You'll notice I've done a close up showing it was made in Taiwan (China). I think this is important because I have come to the conclusion that most of them are, almost regardless of brand name (there will be exceptions I'm sure)

Again, I'm sure those with the eagle eyes will have spotted that the bit where the handle fits is RED! and not blue as in the picture on the package? Well this is where the Sealey 1153 comes in. After many years and a great deal of use this splendid wee blue jack developed a leak from the pumping plunger:

View attachment 447694

The central plunger seems virtually unworn but the barrel into which it fits has worn and the plunger is now a very sloppy fit. In my ignorance I thought I'd be able to buy a new pumping plunger and barrel - you can see the Stilson marks where I attempted to unscrew it - but it wouldn't move so I took the entire pumping element out of the jack:

View attachment 447695

and went round to a local hydraulics shop I've used before to see if he could repair it. "Son", he said - I was about 68 years old at that time but they still all call me "Son"? "Son", he said, "just chuck it away, I've tried getting bits for these many times and they just aren't available". So I thought Ah well, it doesn't owe me anything, I'll just buy a new one. I already had my two "big" jacks by then but it really takes two to lift one of those into a vehicle if you're off on a rescue mission for one of the kids, so I wanted a wee one for those occasions.

I quickly found that my Hilka isn't sold any more - they still do one but the one I saw was smaller and less "capable". You need to look very carefully at closed height and maximum height figures when considering what will meet your needs. Some have good maximum height but get it at the expense of closed height so you can't get them under a low vehicle, especially if you use a sill puck or spacer to protect the sill paintwork.

After quite a bit of research one of the few that fitted my requirements was the Sealey 1153. Sealey is a well enough respected "name" and are sold by my local factor to the trade, so I started trolling through the internet and came up with one on gumtree just a 10 minute away from me. Advertised as "nearly new, used only once" so I rang up and went to look at it. It was a beaut! Still in it's original pretty much undamaged box with not even any dust accumulated on it yet and not even a scratch on the saddle paintwork all up for £30. I was very suspicious, could it be stolen? But the chap, who seemed like a very nice young family man, said "I was intending to save money by doing my own oil changes etc but I hadn't thought it through. I live in a flat with yellow lines all around and heavy traffic, It just didn't work for me. I've got some spanners and an oil drain tub too if you want them". Well no, but I'll take the axle stands if you have them. But no, he didn't have axle stands and was intending to just use the jack! So glad he gave up on the idea!

Anyway, not long after getting the new jack home I thought "Oh dear, that looks like it's got a higher saddle than the old Hilka":

View attachment 447696

And whilst the wheels are bigger the saddles are in fact the same height at rest so it's not a problem. (some of the levers are sticking out the bottom because the pumping element was removed before I took this picture)I then noticed the saddle on the Sealey is slightly smaller in diameter so marginally less stable a platform for a sill puck etc.:

View attachment 447697

Then, on closer examination, I realized the entire pumping element, apart from being red instead of the old Hilka's blue, was virtually identical!

They've changed the oil fill from a screw in plug on the old Hilka:

View attachment 447698

To a rubber plug on the Sealey:

View attachment 447699

And the release valve now has a flattened end rather than a slot and it looks like it's formed simply by stamping it flat in a press rather than it being a machine operation? I've also seen the slotted type with the lugs snapped off. By the way, if you have one of these - of either type - don't be tempted to over tighten them. Damage it in any way and you'll regret it as spares don't seem to be readily available. Doesn't need any more than "nipped up" anyway.

View attachment 447701View attachment 447703

The plunger body looks a little different too, maybe they've modified it to make it last longer than the old type?

The change in the release valve has probably made the lever cheaper to produce too as all they have to do now is squash the end of the tubular handle:

View attachment 447706

However, other than these minor changes the main body of the pumping element is the same, I'd say almost identical even? So, as I prefer the old Hilka anyway, and the other parts of the Hilka are in good serviceable order, I swapped the pumping body complete into the Hilka and it fits like it was originally designed to be there and has been working fine for the last couple of years or so.

So, my conclusion is that these are actually quite good jacks and I was ever so pleased when a neighbour who lives up the road arrived on my door shortly before they moved away and said would you like this:

View attachment 447707

Hang on though, doesn't it look very familiar? Hell yes, It's a yellow version of my old friend the Hilka:

View attachment 447708

Branded Halfords though - still made in China just like the Hilka - Happy days. Would I like it? I almost bit his hand off!

View attachment 447711

It appears that, although not at all a "driveway greasemonkey" he kept a spare set of winter tyres and wheels which he changed over himself. Well, he did it once and said "never again"! so wondered if I'd like the jack as he wasn't going to take it with him!

I'd be unreservedly recommending you buy one of these but they don't seem to stock them anymore damn it! They may have something else though, I haven't looked. Whatever you're buying, turn it over and have a look at that pumping body. I've done this and, on these "mid range" jacks they all look the same! I think they must be "pumping" - pun intended ha ha! - these out by the million and several of the jack manufacturers use them.

Ok, lets try to rationalize some of my thoughts here. First off, if you can afford a more professional jack then definitely go for it. Here's my two big "every day" jacks with the wee Hilka to their left:

View attachment 447710

They are much more robustly built - intended for everyday workshop use of course - and much wider so more stable but I'd still NEVER go under a vehicle supported just on a jack no matter how well made/expensive. However they do cost. The other advantage is that quality bits of kit like this generally have spares available - like seals etc - and I find Machine Mart, who sell the Clarke branded stuff, give good support.

We're considering the more "affordable" options here though and you're not going to buy into support or quality like this at the bottom end of the market. In fact, mostly you'll be buying a "throw away" when it breaks. However these "mid range" Chinese offerings seem to be, within certain limits, up for the "occasional" use you might give it maintaining your own car at home.

The big thing is how much usable lift they give - the important word being "usable" here. This is really down to the length of the lifting arm - by which I mean the distance from the pivot point in front of the operating lever to the middle of the saddle. A short arm can't give a big range of lift - simple as. Some manufacturers advertise "high lift" on these wee jacks but when you look at them the saddle is well above the end of the lifting arm when at rest so the resting height is too high to get under lower vehicles. My wee Hilka has a lifting arm length of 10.5 ins (265mm approx) and a resting height saddle, to ground, of 5" (125mm approx) which means it'll go under anything with 5" ground clearance and jack it up to, a slightly unstable, 17.5" (445mm approx) - these are all actual dimentions taken with my tape measure. I've found this to be very adequate for most common maintenance tasks like brakes, track rod ends, oil changes and checking gearbox oil level, all this sort of stuff. Lets me get the axle stands under easily.

If you look at the big jacks in the last picture above you can see how much wider the wheels are, so they are much more stable and also how much longer the lifting arms are so they can lift higher. The middle jack can lift to 19.25" (485mm aprox) and the low entry jobbie goes to around 20" or 551mm. You can see how it's lifting arm is longer in the picture.

Low entry? exactly what it says, for going under low chassis:

View attachment 447714

In fact the low entry jack has a number of quite nice features in addition to the low entry feature. It's got nylon wheels so is much quieter if I want to trundle it about at unsociable hours - metal wheeled jacks on concrete, slabs, pavers, etc can be amazingly noisy at midnight! It's also got a twin plunger "quick lift to contact" pump which means it only takes a couple of pumps or so to take the saddle from rest up to contact with the chassis where it then pumps normally. Very nice feature to have but not really a "must have".

So where does all this rambling take us? Well, I hope you now have a bit of an insight into these small jacks. I have no experience of the "supermarket specials" and wonder what quality of something at this price point might be - It's definitely going to be a throw away though! The biggest thing I'd have against them though is that the majority of cheaper options, wherever you buy from, don't have much range of lift - short lifting arm length - so will be very limited in what you can do with them. The main thing to look for is resting saddle height (4.5 to 5 inches or around 120mm works for me) and range of lift. so with a resting height of say 5 inches (120mm aprox) your looking for a max height of 16 to 17 inches (420mm aprox).

Bottle jacks? too unstable for me, especially when extended! I'm not a fan of the cheap jacks which come with some vehicles - if they have a jack at all - and would always use wheel chocks and never attempt to jack up on unstable surfaces like gravel and grass etc. even with a decent trolley jack

Lastly. NEVER EVER GET UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED ONLY ON A JACK. All jacks have the potential to collapse or slip and hydraulic jacks, if they suffer a catastrophic hydraulic failure, can collapse very quickly indeed.

Been doing this for too long now and my thoughts are getting confused so going to post this now. I've probably forgotten to mention something though so please do come back on this if you think i can help.
Excellent advice, as ever, thanks!

I also read your guide to jacking which was reposted above, it gave me some good ideas for when I was under the car today.

I think there is a lower budget area for jacks in which they all seem to be pretty much the same

Looking at your pictures above Jock, your little jack is pretty much the same as the one I have, same as the yellow, red and blue ones you have. Same as the one from Argos etc etc

I just went on machine mart and saw this https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-5-piece-2-tonne-trolley-jack-chock-and-/

Cheaper than the price of the Amazon Jack from a reputable company and reputable brand, this is identical to the set I got 20 years ago.

The stands are pretty good for what they are and the handle gets used for all sorts of things where levering is needed.

As for the Chocs, well I drove over them the first time I used them 20 years ago and threw them in the bin, but if you actually pay attention unlike me in my 20s then they do actually work. The case has kept my jack in pretty good condition and is a handly place to put all those nut and bolts you have left over at the end of any job

I currently have an equivalent set from Halfords. Its just about doing a job. However the jack will only lift to a height of around 30cm, but the stands that they supplied with this set have a highest setting of around 35cm. I could do with more room under the car.

Looks like another toy to me.
Just had a quick look on eBay, surprised me at the prices for even basic half decent Draper ones are around £200.:(
Aye, £200, seems to be a fair price for some of the nice trolleys you've got. I'm a bit envious lol.
 
I've just bought it. I can return it free from any postage charges if I really don't like it.

I'd prefer a £200 workshop jack of course but it won't get workshop levels of usage. Hopefully this will be a mid range offering, and better than a chinese toy :)
I think you'll get on just fine with it. Please do come back on here and give us a bit of a review?

Edit. Presume you're meaning the 1153cx?
 
Well, while there's still a few watchers on this thread I may as well explain the job i'll be doing next. I've bought the trolley jack to give me better access to change the front subframe on my EVO. I've never changed a front subframe so I'll be going into it a bit blind...

This being a 2010 EVO i'm expecting something else to break or perish - what is it likely to be? And are there any bushes I need to replace? What should I check?

This is the subframe.

 
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Well, while there's still a few watchers on this thread I may as well explain the job i'll be doing next. I've bought the trolley jack to give me better access to change the front subframe on my EVO. I've never changed a front subframe so I'll be going into it a bit blind...

This being a 2010 EVO i'm expecting something else to break or perish - what is it likely to be? And are there any bushes I need to replace? What should I check?

This is the subframe.

I would recomend spraying all the nuts and bolts well with a penetrating fluid (I use plusgas but I know other's have their preference) do that a few times in the days leading up to the work and you will thank yourself for time saved, knuckle skin not lost and bolts not sheared as a result.
 
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I would recomend spraying all the nuts and bolts well with a penetrating fluid (I use plusgas but I know other's have their preference) do that a few times in the days leading up to the work and you will thank yourself for time saved, knuckle skin not lost and bolts not sheared as a result.
Absolutely a must - Plus Gas formula A would be my first choice too, been using it for years and haven't found anything better.


This is the jack I use
Extremely heavy but very well built with a large surface area for a jack pad or block

That being said it was only 135 when I purchased it a few years back
Looks very similar to the one I bought from Machine Mart: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-ctj2qlp-2-tonne-quick-lift-low-profile/ which has also increased in price considerably compared to what I paid for mine. As to weight? oh yes, I pretty much can't lift either of my big jacks now what with my joint problems and general old age "decrepitness"! - however, as they are on wheels and I work just outside my garage door, that's not a problem.
Well, while there's still a few watchers on this thread I may as well explain the job i'll be doing next. I've bought the trolley jack to give me better access to change the front subframe on my EVO. I've never changed a front subframe so I'll be going into it a bit blind...

This being a 2010 EVO i'm expecting something else to break or perish - what is it likely to be? And are there any bushes I need to replace? What should I check?

This is the subframe.

How are you going to support the power unit (engine/gearbox) while you do this? A support beam is what might work best; https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cec500ds-dual-hook-enginegearbox-suppo/ but it's an expensive luxury if only used once (I've seen them much cheaper on the likes of ebay.) You could make much the same sort of thing from some 4x2 with a bit of ingenuity. As to what else might need replacing I'd just check and asses everything as you go along - rubber bushing, ball joints, engine/gearbox mounts, etc - no sense in replacing stuff that doesn't need to be replaced.
 
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A support beam is what might work best; https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cec500ds-dual-hook-enginegearbox-suppo/ but it's an expensive luxury if only used once (I've seen them much cheaper on the likes of ebay.) You could make much the same sort of thing from some 4x2 with a bit of ingenuity. As to what else might need replacing I'd just check and asses everything as you go along - rubber bushing, ball joints, engine/gearbox mounts, etc - no sense in replacing stuff that doesn't need to be replaced.
When I first saw an engine support bar over 35 years ago in a Sealey catalogue I think it was, I went out and made a simple version for £11. It looks a bit cr*p, but I have used it on clutch/gearbox jobs literally 100s of times, later I bought the Sealey type from an auction for around £20 if my memory serves.
Much of my work was on site for customers, so ramps with high lift gearbox jacks not available.:)
The only time not possible to use it is on vehicles with little or no inner wing lip.
 
I would recomend spraying all the nuts and bolts well with a penetrating fluid (I use plusgas but I know other's have their preference) do that a few times in the days leading up to the work and you will thank yourself for time saved, knuckle skin not lost and bolts not sheared as a result.
I've just wire brushed the bolts and put on WD40 penetrant, deffo a good idea.
How are you going to support the power unit (engine/gearbox) while you do this? A support beam is what might work best; https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cec500ds-dual-hook-enginegearbox-suppo/ but it's an expensive luxury if only used once (I've seen them much cheaper on the likes of ebay.) You could make much the same sort of thing from some 4x2 with a bit of ingenuity. As to what else might need replacing I'd just check and asses everything as you go along - rubber bushing, ball joints, engine/gearbox mounts, etc - no sense in replacing stuff that doesn't need to be replaced.
In part i bought a second jack for this job. I was planning on just leaving one under the car to support the engine and gearbox.

When I first saw an engine support bar over 35 years ago in a Sealey catalogue I think it was, I went out and made a simple version for £11. It looks a bit cr*p, but I have used it on clutch/gearbox jobs literally 100s of times, later I bought the Sealey type from an auction for around £20 if my memory serves.
Much of my work was on site for customers, so ramps with high lift gearbox jacks not available.:)
The only time not possible to use it is on vehicles with little or no inner wing lip.
I've never seen one of these in person so i just went to google it and found a picture.
 
Strangely I have never used "Plus Gas" spray, just an engine oil can, WD40 or similar water dispersants.
I recall going out to a breakdown in pouring rain, checking the points on a car, spraying WD40 inside the distributor cap and all over the leads, coil etc. in an absolute rain storm. The car just happily burst into life so I was able to close the bonnet.
I don't think the WD40 would have helped me dry off though;)
Another time I sprayed WD40 on ignition leads and a HT lead must have sparked which gave a quick flash of flame, luckily only one!:)
 
When I first saw an engine support bar over 35 years ago in a Sealey catalogue I think it was, I went out and made a simple version for £11. It looks a bit cr*p, but I have used it on clutch/gearbox jobs literally 100s of times, later I bought the Sealey type from an auction for around £20 if my memory serves.
Much of my work was on site for customers, so ramps with high lift gearbox jacks not available.:)
The only time not possible to use it is on vehicles with little or no inner wing lip.
Aye Mike, they're a silly price for what they are. I've seldom had the need to support an entire power unit working at home but a piece of 2x4 and some stout rope should be more than strong enough for our tiddlers - wouldn't have tried it on something like my old Ambassador though. I built an inverted L shaped jib out of steam pipe mounted to a home made U shaped stand on wheels - so it could be wheeled under the front end like an engine crane. Then I hung a block and tackle from the end of the jib and, hey presto, a home made engine crane! I made it specifically to remove the Ambassador's power unit (O series 2 litre with gearbox - a bit like a very big "old" mini engine and gearbox) it's the heaviest thing I've ever tried to handle at home. The lift, complete with block and tackle, still lives in my garage but I've never used it on anything else! It would be ideal for a support job like this but you'd need a small truck to transport it.
 
Strangely I have never used "Plus Gas" spray, just an engine oil can, WD40 or similar water dispersants.
I recall going out to a breakdown in pouring rain, checking the points on a car, spraying WD40 inside the distributor cap and all over the leads, coil etc. in an absolute rain storm. The car just happily burst into life so I was able to close the bonnet.
I don't think the WD40 would have helped me dry off though;)
Another time I sprayed WD40 on ignition leads and a HT lead must have sparked which gave a quick flash of flame, luckily only one!:)
D'you remember the mini/1100 used to be famous for it - stopping in a downpour I mean. With the engine being mounted sideways (as are many now) and with their radiator on the nearside, the distributor HT leads and plugs on the A series engine were directly exposed to anything which could get through the radiator grill which water did no bother. Later cars had a wee plastic plate fixed to the back of the grill in an attempt to stop this and it actually seemed to work quite well.

WD40 is, as most of us will know, a Water Dispersant - hence the WD - I believe the 40 refers to the fact it was the 40th formulation of ingredients they experimented with? It's got quite a reputation for being a release oil but it's not specifically intended as such, perhaps the fact they've now produced a specific releasing fluid reflects this? https://www.wd40.com/products/penetrating-oil/
 
D'you remember the mini/1100 used to be famous for it - stopping in a downpour I mean. With the engine being mounted sideways (as are many now) and with their radiator on the nearside, the distributor HT leads and plugs on the A series engine were directly exposed to anything which could get through the radiator grill which water did no bother. Later cars had a wee plastic plate fixed to the back of the grill in an attempt to stop this and it actually seemed to work quite well.

WD40 is, as most of us will know, a Water Dispersant - hence the WD - I believe the 40 refers to the fact it was the 40th formulation of ingredients they experimented with? It's got quite a reputation for being a release oil but it's not specifically intended as such, perhaps the fact they've now produced a specific releasing fluid reflects this? https://www.wd40.com/products/penetrating-oil/
Apart from customers Minis, I had several over the years including Mini 1000, Clubman,Countryman,Van and Pick up versions, never paid much for them only double figures so it amazes me what they ask for them these days.
On my Mini 1000 I recall making a perspex shield across the grill to keep the rain off, but had to later drill holes in it away from the distributor to prevent overheating.
I recall in mid 80s you could buy a genuine bodyshell for around £400 when on offer.:)
I always bought the WD40 in 5 litre cans as much more economical than aerosols, still have one in the garage, they used to come with a free dispencer.
 
I was just thinking about engine support bars and it occurs to me that I don't think you need one to do the subframe? The two main engine mounts are secured to the box inner wing structures on either side are they not? So the engine/gearbox unit will just hang on them? Only engine parts you'd need to disconnect would be the torque reaction rod (often called the "dogbone" on our Pandas) and the exhaust? However I've never tried this on a Punto so I stand to be corrected.

Has the jack arrived yet Anthony? Can't wait to hear what you think of it.
 
I was just thinking about engine support bars and it occurs to me that I don't think you need one to do the subframe? The two main engine mounts are secured to the box inner wing structures on either side are they not? So the engine/gearbox unit will just hang on them? Only engine parts you'd need to disconnect would be the torque reaction rod (often called the "dogbone" on our Pandas) and the exhaust? However I've never tried this on a Punto so I stand to be corrected.

Has the jack arrived yet Anthony? Can't wait to hear what you think of it.
It has arrived and I've just pictured it. I'm very impressed, it isn't a return that a previous customer didn't like, and while I haven't used it - I'm looking forward to!

For comparison my chinese toy is sat next to it. It deffo weighs 19kg, versus 5kg.

If you can think of any easy to do house tests i'll give it a run through! And thanks for the recommend :)

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