General My (original) timing belt after 130,000 KM

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General My (original) timing belt after 130,000 KM

Another modern developement I'm very nervous of is the trend to fit variable displacement oil pumps. Again the Skoda's got one - and the ibiza I had before. Aparently, again, they save a "smidgeon" by not pumping so much oil when it's not needed. Got moving parts in the control side though. Fine when relatively new but when they get old? Another reason not to ignore oil change intervals.
 
Don't know but even if so that will be a minor issue because the bearings will be sh****d by oil starvation caused by all the wee bits of belt gumming up the strainer. Apparently the belts swell in use under the influence of the oil and there's a special "Go/No go" gauge which is used through the oil filler hole to measure the degree of swelling. Too fat and it's time for a belt. The cleanup needed when fitting the new belt is detailed in the article and it sounds awful. Things which might need cleaned are VVT timing solenoid screens, Turbo charger banjo fitting and tube, Oil pickup strainer, brake vacuum pump, the list goes on. You'll notice all these require a fair bit of dismantling so additional labour costs. Would you be happy to just leave them without taking a look when doing the belt? I suppose you've got the front cover off already so dropping the sump isn't that much more time? Not for me though. Or, buy one and chop it back in for another when the warranty expires? Apparently one thing to watch for is erratic flickering of the oil warning light? That's one that interests me because many modern oil warning lights have little to do with actual oil pressure. The ECU is monitoring that and only if the pressure drops for a predetermined time will the ECU cause the light to illuminate. If you switch on your ignition but don't crank your engine and the oil can light in the instrument display illuminates (for a bulb check) and then goes out - remember your engine isn't running yet - then you've very likely got one of these. The EA211 has one like this and I hate it because I can't watch to see how long it takes for the light to go out after start up - which is an indication of general bearing condition (should go out quickly after the engine starts.)
To be honest cars went downhill for me when they lost push-rods and points! reckon i should be on the look out for a triumph herald oh :poop: forgot about the rust!:eek: and probably dont have the strength to wind up me own windows these days!:p
 
To be honest cars went downhill for me when they lost push-rods and points! reckon i should be on the look out for a triumph herald oh :poop: forgot about the rust!:eek: and probably dont have the strength to wind up me own windows these days!:p
Been several Heralds in the family and I owned a mk1 1600 Vitesse saloon for a while. Great cars and so easy to work on with the forward hinging bonnet. You could sit on a front wheel while working on the engine. When it "died" I gave serious thought to dropping a triumph 2000 engine into a herald estate - They never made the Vitesse with an estate body - but work got too hectic and I never got round to it. The nylon front and rear suspension bushes wore very quickly though especially if you used the "taxi like" turning circle - very hand when I lived in London.
 
Don't know but even if so that will be a minor issue because the bearings will be sh****d by oil starvation caused by all the wee bits of belt gumming up the strainer. Apparently the belts swell in use under the influence of the oil and there's a special "Go/No go" gauge which is used through the oil filler hole to measure the degree of swelling. Too fat and it's time for a belt. The cleanup needed when fitting the new belt is detailed in the article and it sounds awful. Things which might need cleaned are VVT timing solenoid screens, Turbo charger banjo fitting and tube, Oil pickup strainer, brake vacuum pump, the list goes on. You'll notice all these require a fair bit of dismantling so additional labour costs. Would you be happy to just leave them without taking a look when doing the belt? I suppose you've got the front cover off already so dropping the sump isn't that much more time? Not for me though. Or, buy one and chop it back in for another when the warranty expires? Apparently one thing to watch for is erratic flickering of the oil warning light? That's one that interests me because many modern oil warning lights have little to do with actual oil pressure. The ECU is monitoring that and only if the pressure drops for a predetermined time will the ECU cause the light to illuminate. If you switch on your ignition but don't crank your engine and the oil can light in the instrument display illuminates (for a bulb check) and then goes out - remember your engine isn't running yet - then you've very likely got one of these. The EA211 has one like this and I hate it because I can't watch to see how long it takes for the light to go out after start up - which is an indication of general bearing condition (should go out quickly after the engine starts.)
There is is not very much that would encourage me to buy a new car these days, too much that will go wrong and if to specialised for non franchised garages then you know the car will be scrapped due to the repair costs,:(
 
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There is is not very much that would encourage me to buy a new car these days, too much that will go wrong and if to specialised for non franchised garages then you no the car will be scrapped due to the repair costs,:(
Yes I agree with you in many respects. I went through agonies when deciding what to do about replacing the Ibiza. However a major plus for me is having AVW to fall back on https://www.facebook.com/avwautocentreltd which is owned by two chaps I know, one of which is married to a very good and old friend's daughter. The Scala of course is under full manufacturer warranty for the next 2.5 years but after that, if I'm still driving, I can call on them.

Mrs J's sister is six years older than us and not in particularly good health so we have to face the fact she's probably not going to be around much longer and once she's no longer with us we'll probably not do any more long distance trips in the car. My daughter is happy enough to come up herself from time to time. But, while we are doing these long trips we need a car which is going to get us there and I believe the Scala should do that reliably for as long as we need to do it.

Once we're just bumbling around up here something like a Panda or Suzuki Ignis would do us just fine.
 
(Responding to Ford wet belt replacement process....)

Extraordinary. The pursuit of what are now marginal efficiency gains at point of sale (and type approval emissions testing) is all quite perverse now. These high-tech engines may be great when new, but the extra resources and energy used in servicing and repairing them in later life (or premature scrapping) would seem to offset the initial benefits. I feel this way about the Twinair engine - technically very advanced, but replace a turbo or a uniair module and surely one is back at base, resources-wise? Progress?
 
All the previous comments confirm my belief that vehicle salesmen for new cars these days work on the same process as the S/H car dealers of the past.
"Yes Sir Your Car Has A Full Warranty" then under their breath, "The White Line Warranty, as soon as the car crosses the white line in the centre of the road you are on your own!!!":(
 
All the previous comments confirm my belief that vehicle salesmen for new cars these days work on the same process as the S/H car dealers of the past.
"Yes Sir Your Car Has A Full Warranty" then under their breath, "The White Line Warranty, as soon as the car crosses the white line in the centre of the road you are on your own!!!":(
I think I'm broadly in agreement with you Mike. However my experience with SEAT/Skoda has been pretty good over the years. Mostly the examples we've had in the family fleet have been remarkably reliable and I like the "sensible" way they engineer stuff - compared say to Peugeot Citroen. I will qualify that by saying we had a lot of problems with the 1.6CR engine in my boy's Fabia Scout but the PD in his previous Fabia and the really old VE in my Cordoba were brilliant and pretty easy to work on. The vehicles generally were also "sensibly" screwed together. The present generation, with their wee turboed very complicated engines - who needs two thermostats, variable volume oil pumps, two water pumps (one belt driven the other electric, I could go on - are probably Ok when relatively new but I wouldn't want to own an old one, especially as the electronics now work in conjunction with, and require connection to, the VAG system (you can't simply connect up your VCDS scanner and carry on for some procedures like I can with the old Multiecuscan on Becky).

Regarding warranty, again I think you are largely right. If it meets all the criteria then you're on. If it doesn't then ? My older boy's Kia, bought new with 7 year warranty impressed me greatly until I started looking at the terms of the warranty as it ages. With each year the things covered by the warranty steadily decreases!

At approx two years old the Ibiza suffered the wastegate problem which was a known problem on the earlier design of turbo on these engines. Warning lights lit on dash and engine in "limp". I stopped and checked everything I could, so visual inspection, coolant and oil levels and all the stuff you would look for. Everything Ok just no boost. I had the grandchildren in the car on a country road so decided to risk driving gently home, which went ok, before ringing SEAT Assist. In less than half an hour a very "posh" SEAT Assist factory van drew up outside the house. Asked me what symptoms I'd noticed. Took a very quick look under the bonnet, fiddled with something down the back of the engine (which I now know was that he was checking the wastegate lever to see if it was seized) and asked if I was prepared to drive it the 5 miles to the main agent while he followed. When we got to the garage I overheard him say to the reception desk "it's another wastegate" and he reassured them he hadn't cleared any fault codes. Then he gave me a lift back home in his van. On the journey we had a good chat all about it which was where I learned he was going to at least a couple of these a week and a redesigned wastegate lever system had been introduced. Apparently the old system corrodes solid so usually a new turbo complete is needed. A few hours later the garage rang to say they were going to replace the turbo completely under warranty but it would take a few days for the new turbo to come. Actually took over a week for it to come and would I like a hire car? I decided not to take it as we had the Panda to fall back on. The whole thing was a great success and the car was fine (except for the gearbox nightmare) until I sold it. When I went in to pick the car up I asked why the Assist man had mentioned he'd not erased any codes. Oh, she said, we have a lot of problems diagnostics wise if they do that so all our people know not too. Unlike the men in the yellow/orange vans who invariably erase the codes which means reading them is pointless. Interesting eh?

I'm now of the opinion that either you run an older vehicle, built before all this connectivity stuff with the manufacturer became an issue or you buy a brand new car (preferably a prereg like mine) and keep it until the warranty runs out then trade it. Some of the finance packages work quite well if you decide to take this route. I think electric vehicles may be best bought this way although I doubt if I'll ever buy an electric car.

Used car warranties need very careful scrutiny. There are some good ones out there but you need to read the small print very very carefully as many are riddled with get out clauses which leave you high and dry. If I'm not buying a new or nearly new vehicle I like to buy from a smaller "family type" garage. Used vehicles from large dealerships are a very mixed bag as to where they are sourced with many being fleet trade ins. The wee guy near us, who I've now known for years, individually inspects every vehicle he sells and has some absolute crackers for sale. I think he takes so much care because he specializes in automatics and they, as he puts it, have to be "right". Of course he takes manual transmission vehicles in part exchange but only keeps and sells on the very best. The rest he sells on to the trade. Consequently the small number of manual trans vehicles on his forecourt are beauts!
 
I think I'm broadly in agreement with you Mike. However my experience with SEAT/Skoda has been pretty good over the years. Mostly the examples we've had in the family fleet have been remarkably reliable and I like the "sensible" way they engineer stuff - compared say to Peugeot Citroen. I will qualify that by saying we had a lot of problems with the 1.6CR engine in my boy's Fabia Scout but the PD in his previous Fabia and the really old VE in my Cordoba were brilliant and pretty easy to work on. The vehicles generally were also "sensibly" screwed together. The present generation, with their wee turboed very complicated engines - who needs two thermostats, variable volume oil pumps, two water pumps (one belt driven the other electric, I could go on - are probably Ok when relatively new but I wouldn't want to own an old one, especially as the electronics now work in conjunction with, and require connection to, the VAG system (you can't simply connect up your VCDS scanner and carry on for some procedures like I can with the old Multiecuscan on Becky).

Regarding warranty, again I think you are largely right. If it meets all the criteria then you're on. If it doesn't then ? My older boy's Kia, bought new with 7 year warranty impressed me greatly until I started looking at the terms of the warranty as it ages. With each year the things covered by the warranty steadily decreases!

At approx two years old the Ibiza suffered the wastegate problem which was a known problem on the earlier design of turbo on these engines. Warning lights lit on dash and engine in "limp". I stopped and checked everything I could, so visual inspection, coolant and oil levels and all the stuff you would look for. Everything Ok just no boost. I had the grandchildren in the car on a country road so decided to risk driving gently home, which went ok, before ringing SEAT Assist. In less than half an hour a very "posh" SEAT Assist factory van drew up outside the house. Asked me what symptoms I'd noticed. Took a very quick look under the bonnet, fiddled with something down the back of the engine (which I now know was that he was checking the wastegate lever to see if it was seized) and asked if I was prepared to drive it the 5 miles to the main agent while he followed. When we got to the garage I overheard him say to the reception desk "it's another wastegate" and he reassured them he hadn't cleared any fault codes. Then he gave me a lift back home in his van. On the journey we had a good chat all about it which was where I learned he was going to at least a couple of these a week and a redesigned wastegate lever system had been introduced. Apparently the old system corrodes solid so usually a new turbo complete is needed. A few hours later the garage rang to say they were going to replace the turbo completely under warranty but it would take a few days for the new turbo to come. Actually took over a week for it to come and would I like a hire car? I decided not to take it as we had the Panda to fall back on. The whole thing was a great success and the car was fine (except for the gearbox nightmare) until I sold it. When I went in to pick the car up I asked why the Assist man had mentioned he'd not erased any codes. Oh, she said, we have a lot of problems diagnostics wise if they do that so all our people know not too. Unlike the men in the yellow/orange vans who invariably erase the codes which means reading them is pointless. Interesting eh?

I'm now of the opinion that either you run an older vehicle, built before all this connectivity stuff with the manufacturer became an issue or you buy a brand new car (preferably a prereg like mine) and keep it until the warranty runs out then trade it. Some of the finance packages work quite well if you decide to take this route. I think electric vehicles may be best bought this way although I doubt if I'll ever buy an electric car.

Used car warranties need very careful scrutiny. There are some good ones out there but you need to read the small print very very carefully as many are riddled with get out clauses which leave you high and dry. If I'm not buying a new or nearly new vehicle I like to buy from a smaller "family type" garage. Used vehicles from large dealerships are a very mixed bag as to where they are sourced with many being fleet trade ins. The wee guy near us, who I've now known for years, individually inspects every vehicle he sells and has some absolute crackers for sale. I think he takes so much care because he specializes in automatics and they, as he puts it, have to be "right". Of course he takes manual transmission vehicles in part exchange but only keeps and sells on the very best. The rest he sells on to the trade. Consequently the small number of manual trans vehicles on his forecourt are beauts!
It nice when you can find a good company as you have.
I feel manufacturers are deliberately making vehicles that are hard for non franchised dealers to work on in the anticipation of everyone being forced to EVs and even where a car can be repaired parts are back ordered from Italy etc. in many cases.
Though EVs will be another headache again as they get older and out of warranty.
The old Third World films of broken cars being towed by bullocks may be coming to us;););) Mind you I expect our Government will still demand Road Tax etc.
I am quite happy with the 07 Skoda Scout as a cheap run about, though when I had to go to the city to buy a short ABS repair loom I wasn't over impressed. The overheads on a massive site with big showroom , lots of non productive staff /overheads means you know you will never get a bargain. The practice of hiding a parts department at the back of a flash showroom seems to dominate most franchises the days.
 
I wonder if it aerates the oil causing other lubrication issues?
I don't think they sit in the oil, so there should be no 'splash' or churning. Even the oil pump belt is above the at rest oil level. The belts are just internal, where oil is around from having been pumped to bearings, etc., so they get oily.
It does seem a silly idea, as the dry belt took the cam drive outside, for easier access, and initially less complication than a chain. Now we have the access issues of a chain, but with a belt. We'd hope the belt manufacturers, and oil manufacturers, discussed this before the first application.
 
I don't think they sit in the oil, so there should be no 'splash' or churning. Even the oil pump belt is above the at rest oil level. The belts are just internal, where oil is around from having been pumped to bearings, etc., so they get oily.
It does seem a silly idea, as the dry belt took the cam drive outside, for easier access, and initially less complication than a chain. Now we have the access issues of a chain, but with a belt. We'd hope the belt manufacturers, and oil manufacturers, discussed this before the first application.
They must perceive some benefit, but I doubt if it is one the customer feels!
 
They must perceive some benefit, but I doubt if it is one the customer feels!
If, as said in the Mechanics magazine, they save 30% energy, the owner should benefit. That'll be 30% of the energy to drive the cams, of course, so only a tiny gain overall.
The Ford engine, used for learners, gave identical fuel consumption to the previous 1.4 NA engines, so no gain there. The Peugeot 1.2 triples do seem quite frugal, so perhaps they've done it better. (Of course they have, Peugeot do tend to do strange things mechanically, but will do a better job than Ford, who have good engineers, contstrained by tight budgets.)
 
You can't really beat a good volume steam engine with large flywheel. Not much to go wrong! Also same goes with a two stroke engine.

The Wankel engine was in theory a high RPM valveless equivalent of a two stroke engine. Also very simple in design and moving parts. Sadly rotor tip wear was it's major problem.
 
I think I'm broadly in agreement with you Mike. However my experience with SEAT/Skoda has been pretty good over the years. Mostly the examples we've had in the family fleet have been remarkably reliable and I like the "sensible" way they engineer stuff - compared say to Peugeot Citroen. I will qualify that by saying we had a lot of problems with the 1.6CR engine in my boy's Fabia Scout but the PD in his previous Fabia and the really old VE in my Cordoba were brilliant and pretty easy to work on. The vehicles generally were also "sensibly" screwed together.
It was a sad day when the 1.9 PD engine was used no more, had 2 Sharans both of which had well over 200k on when let go of, both bought with 175k on appox! As long as you service them regularly with the right oil they go for ever, it was always the ford body shell that let them down! My son has a 2.0 CR Scirocco and that had the common EGR fault, rather than paying £800 to have a new one, we went for the £250 option of a blanking or plate and an ECU delete! 🤣
 

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130,000 km is only 80k miles, most belts go to that or beyond. Probably more age related cracks than mileage.
 
It was a sad day when the 1.9 PD engine was used no more, had 2 Sharans both of which had well over 200k on when let go of, both bought with 175k on appox! As long as you service them regularly with the right oil they go for ever, it was always the ford body shell that let them down! My son has a 2.0 CR Scirocco and that had the common EGR fault, rather than paying £800 to have a new one, we went for the £250 option of a blanking or plate and an ECU delete! 🤣
Yup, I had the VE engined Cordoba for over 20 years. Towards the end I was thinking of striping the inlet manifold off it because it was all carboned up but then the turbo wastegate actuator diapragm failed and I could only find a complete turbo - ouch! - so I justdrove her at under 2'000 rpm to stop the limp kicking in. But also the tin worm was getting quite a hold and there were other "issues". She seemed to just suddenly, after years of just plodding on, fall off the cliff edge. The PD engined Fabia went well into the 100,000 mile region with only one serious issue, which, as I didn't know about it back then, caused me a bit of head scratching to solve. It was the, now commonly known about, problem with the injector wiring causing random missfires. Once I'd found it it wasn't too hard or expensive to sort and she went on for several more years until he bought the "blinged up" Fabia Scout estate. Almost right away his Mrs managed to scrape off a lot of the fancy plastic "butch looking" trim and it was never properly repaired. Then there was the, now well known, problem with the EGR which I failed to sort so it had to go to AVW where my friend told me they hate doing them as they are so hard to get access to. Then he put it into a dealer we've never used before - don't ask, he couldn't tell me why - and they did the software update (dieselgate) and it never drove right after that. Then the cat failed with fatigue fractures and actually nearly fell off the vehicle. The lads at AVW welded it up for us at a very reasonable price compared to a new one but he decided he'd had enough and chopped it in against the Kia.
 
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