Technical MK2 Outer CV Boot HELP

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Technical MK2 Outer CV Boot HELP

sedj

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My outer cv boot is split and grease is everywhere :( After scouring the net for ways to replace this i have decided to use a universal stretch/slip on boot using the cone method as i wont need to split the hub from the drive shaft?

I have soaked what bolts i think i need to undo with wd40 and freed them off and tightened them again apart from the hub nut. My main question is what is the minimum i can get away with regarding bolts that need to be removed?

I was reading this posthttps://www.fiatforum.com/punto/238684-mk2-cv-joints.html and a comment from Mr Wild caught my interest as its sounds too simple.

[Quote:]
* Remove the driveshaft's hub nut.
* The two bolts connecting the hub to the macpherson strut, slacken the bottom one, remove the top one -- this will allow you to pivot the hub.
* Turn steering fully to the side you're working on.


Driveshaft should now fully extract from the hub without removing any further components and you can now work on your outer CV.
[Unquote:]

Has anyone tried this method or used these slip on cv boots?

Anyone pointers.

Thanks:)
 
Ok did the job on saturday and it all went well considering, heres a quick break down for anyone else tackling the job.

Tools Needed:
Jack
Axle stands
Hammer
Piece of wood
15 & 16mm sockets for strut mounts.
32mm DEEP HEX SOCKET 1/2" Drive (36mm for HGT Punto)
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_200757_langId_-1_categoryId_165469
Breaker bar 1/2" Drive
Stanley Knife
FIAT PUNTO BOOTKIT BOOT KIT (STRETCH) & FITTING CONE
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130401900233?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1958wt_1396

Procedure:
With car stationary handbrake and if needs be footbrake on, loosen wheel hub with breaker bar and 32mm socket you may need extra leverage as they are on really tight. Mine had been off before and was really easy to get off.

Loosen Wheel nuts and jack the car giving enough room to place the axle stands under the inner wishbone mount, do the same for the other side. You need to have both road wheels off the floor so as to turn the steering.

Remove the wheel on the side you are working on and then remove the brake hose line as in the pic as this enables you to remove the top bolt this is a push fit and comes of with some wiggling. Now you can remove the top bolt, after releasing the nut you will need to drift it out with a hammer and a piece of wood to soften the blow.

Now thats removed loosen the bottom bolt ONLY and then turn the road wheels away from you it may work without doing this but this worked for me best as you basically have to pivot the hub away from the suspension leg and then tap the driveshaft back through the hub using hammer and wood and now it just needs wiggling clear.

The driveshaft will come clear without any further removal of parts.

Fitting the slipon boot is really a 2 man job as you can get it so far on before you run out of steam, so an assistant under the car can pull the leading edge as you push the following edge on its a bit arse to be honest. It also needs to be turned inside out for the outer joint fitment, heres a vid showing how it works:


The stanley knife is to trim down the boot as the large open end is too big and needs cutting back after sliding on to 1 or 2 steps back.

Make sure when you re-assemble you make sure the hub nut is damn tight jump up and down on the bar to ensure it is tight it needs to be 200nm or 177lb you will not reach this torque unless you use a 6foot long bar. Mine was not this tight on removal and had been that way for at least 2 years without falling off, you may want to replace the hub nut i did not due to the previous reason.

Couple of pics show a bit more:


Job done (y)
 
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I'd not use a slip on.

But that'll work just fine as a method of releasing the shaft. If you want to make it easier still, you can then split the inner CV joint and do it on the bench.

I was not happy with splitting the joint reading other peoples woes on trying to seperate the joint, this is why i went for the easiest option possible.

This method involves removing one bolt and loosening another, fitting the slipon boot while attached to the car is a bit hard but still possible.

The boot itself is pretty good quality and thick enough to last at least a year so for £7.50 for the kit its good value for simpletons like me :D
 
The inner joint will literally just pull apart if you undo the clip at the inboard end of the gaitor. It's only the tension of the other suspension components which holds it together. Where people have had problems, I think, is in removing the cups.

Trust me, this is the easiest method!

If i understand you correctly you are implying drive shaft removal with the hub attached? and the cups are the main problem which i did not bother splitting, your method requires replacing the holding clip on the inner boot.

If you fit a genuine part you need to split the joint from the hub.

Much confusion here, you can remove the shaft alltogether and use a stretch boot or you can split the joint and use a fiat part. Both require the shaft to be removed from the vehicle, unless you do it the way i did?

Im sure your way is better but cant see where you are coming from?

The kits you buy of the net do not include inner boot clips.
It would be great if they did but they dont :(
 
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If I'm implying anything it's only that it's easier to do the job off the car, using the correct parts!

Free the driveshaft the way you suggest. Undo one of the clips on the inner driveshaft (the one on the cup is the obvious one). You can then remove the driveshaft (the cup stays attached to the gearbox. Pop a plastic bag round the inner end of the driveshaft to keep the grease in (and the dirt out). You can then remove it to a bench and do the job properly, using the "real" parts. Even if you were doing it using the stretch boot you'd be able to do it solo.

Always use a new hub nut (and are they not swaged on on Mk2s?).
 
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Good point peeps need to bear in mind they will need a inner boot joint if you go this route.

It will be a lot easier if you can put the whole assembly in a vice, but im sure most people are in the same boat as me and it is not viable.

My option is the only option for those lacking the facilities, it works.

But thanks for fingers pointing out the best way to do it.
 
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Re: MK2 Outer CV Boot GUIDE

Place holder
 
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You don't need an inner boot joint at all. Just a clip. Indeed, you can do without the clip and use a big, top quality, tie wrap instead. The inner joints don't undergo anything like the same degree of stress as the outers and the tie wraps do a great job of keeping the grease in.

(y)
 
Replaced outer CV boot at the weekend using the 'cone', very easy. Hardest bit was cutting the old boot off - and the messiest bit !! (I hate that grease!).
Left the driveshaft in the car and just made sure I sat nice and close to the cone to give it a good bit of force sliding the boot on in one movement. Well, second attempt anyway ! :)

JJ
 
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