General Main Pulley Bolt Removal - Twin Air

[Panda IIs]

I'd also be interested to know what the piston positions are with the crank locking tool in place, but this is just my own curiosity.

Well this will likely be the limit of my investigation - get the pistons to TDC and see if we have the pulley hole at 6 o'clock (hopefully for the OP) or not.

If I can I will also cross reference any features on the pulley with the sensor you identified.

 

[jrkitching]

by using said tool which I understand locates and looks the cam

I'd expect there are three tools in that kit.

One to lock the crankshaft

one to lock the camshaft

and a pin tool to position the pulley.

In this case, you don't want to use the camshaft locking tool; you only need to use the crankshaft locking tool to position the crankshaft, and then use the pin tool to locate the pulley.

With a bit of luck, the kit might even come with some instructions.

I'd expect the engine to run after repositioning the pulley, although you may or may not need to use a software tool to clear the error codes.

 

[TTR]

Eh up jrkitching

correct typed without fully explaining- agree three tools in one set.

need to get to TDC I believe , but will see what I can fathom out - can’t be that difficult now I have a plan

Famous last words - springs to mind

 

[TTR]

Eh up

Well I’m tired and freezing but it’s back together and I’m as confident as possible it’s all correct. I’ve spent all day slowly check each stage, both plugs out manual cracked twice to check after re build.

I could be wrong of course but seemingly appears fine.

Ive filled with coolant and will attempt a start tomorrow, I’m too tired tonight.

will update thread

thanks for all the help

 

[jrkitching]

will attempt a start tomorrow

I'm keeping all my fingers crossed for you.

Hope all goes well
JR

 

[Panda IIs]

Eh up

Well I’m tired and freezing but it’s back together and I’m as confident as possible it’s all correct. I’ve spent all day slowly check each stage, both plugs out manual cracked twice to check after re build.

I could be wrong of course but seemingly appears fine.

Ive filled with coolant and will attempt a start tomorrow, I’m too tired tonight.

will update thread

thanks for all the help

I don't know how you could resist not trying a start! Keep us informed.

 

[TTR]

Eh up all

ITS ALIVE !!!!!

Well it sparked up fine - much to my amazement - even in this cold brr

Im thinking it’s fine but I might be hearing things but is there a sound like “lifter tick” at the back end of the revs as it’s drops off?..

I am probably paranoid but I’m sure it wasn’t there prior to me co88ing up

It ticks over fine it’s just give it a rev then as it settles to idle - see if you can hear it

The good news is it starts n runs - if I’m in any doubt will drop it to a good Indy or main dealer to double check it over

It’s a cracking car and I aim to keep it that way

still kicking myself over this

thanks to everyone who has helped -

Welcome any thoughts on the video and owt on the noise

 

[jrkitching]

ITS ALIVE !!!!!

Great news - I'm really pleased for you.

I can't see how there can be any mechanical damage; you never let the cam & crank get out of relative position.

It may take a short while for the oil to get circulating properly so I wouldn't be too concerned until you've had a chance to take it for a proper run. I guess it's possible it may also take a few stop/start cycles for the electronics to relearn what it's supposed to be doing.

Any comments on what tools you bought, and how well they fitted/worked might help others who find themselves in a similar position.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Eh up all

ITS ALIVE !!!!!

Well it sparked up fine - much to my amazement - even in this cold brr

Im thinking it’s fine but I might be hearing things but is there a sound like “lifter tick” at the back end of the revs as it’s drops off?..

I am probably paranoid but I’m sure it wasn’t there prior to me co88ing up

It ticks over fine it’s just give it a rev then as it settles to idle - see if you can hear it

The good news is it starts n runs - if I’m in any doubt will drop it to a good Indy or main dealer to double check it over

It’s a cracking car and I aim to keep it that way

still kicking myself over this

thanks to everyone who has helped -

Welcome any thoughts on the video and owt on the noise

View attachment 434281

That sounds normal to me. Mine makes a similar sound. The 1.2s also do it. I think when the oil pressure drops slightly as the engine slows it does it, and its valve tappet related. Its not hard or harsh which would be a worry. My car is at 17K so a bench mark. Sounds like a nice smooth and very steady tickover. My car makes some very peculiar noises at times. I have learned to give it space and time. It has always gone back to normal as much as I can understand it in relation to the TA. Its a bit like a naughty puppy well behaved if you allow a bit of latitude.

 

[TTR]

Eh up all,

Well Mrs ran it today to work and back

Strict instructions to not have radio on and listen for anything odd and ANY light come up on dash stop car.

I got a call………..the rear seat squeeks …..I did not need the phone to make her hear my response

So , would appear after 20 miles that there nothing odd:-

oil level fine
expansion tank level - level and no movement

still not sure about noise - mines got circa 21k on, maybe I’m just paranoid after my ba88s up

Will keep this thread updated for a bit , just in case , and will try and add some comments on the work.

Without stating the obvious here , it is an easy job, whatever you do LOCK THE PULLEY by alignment of the hole in the pulley and the milled recess in the engine block. Remember the pulley nut is LEFT HAND THREAD

Cheers all for everyone’s input on this thread

 

[The Panda Nut]

Great advice and plenty to think on for us all. Thanks for the final post in particular

 

[Boom]

Eh up all,

Well Mrs ran it today to work and back

Strict instructions to not have radio on and listen for anything odd and ANY light come up on dash stop car.

I got a call………..the rear seat squeeks …..I did not need the phone to make her hear my response

So , would appear after 20 miles that there nothing odd:-

oil level fine
expansion tank level - level and no movement

still not sure about noise - mines got circa 21k on, maybe I’m just paranoid after my ba88s up

Will keep this thread updated for a bit , just in case , and will try and add some comments on the work.

Without stating the obvious here , it is an easy job, whatever you do LOCK THE PULLEY by alignment of the hole in the pulley and the milled recess in the engine block. Remember the pulley nut is LEFT HAND THREAD

Cheers all for everyone’s input on this thread

Hi TTR… how did it all pan out in the end with this saga? Just about to commit to changing my water pump on my TA too and came across this thread

 

[Jimby]

So can we confirm that it's a LH thread?

 

[Boom]

So can we confirm that it's a LH thread?

Yes… it’s a left hand thread which I had acknowledgment from Fiat senior tech and a member on here, which is ‘Crank pulley Nm is 124-137Nm and LEFT HAND THREAD’!

 

[TTR]

Eh up all

Not checked threads lately so sorry for late reply

Boom - after a bad start everything went well, covered most in my thread. The nut is Left Hand Thread.

Just take it slow and mark up pulley position, and make any scribes you can to double check it’s in the same place on refit

Also use the lock out hole aligned to the block - see my thread

Bolts on water pump cover and low torque so come of easy

Belts no problem

Dry of all mating faces before refit. Check the case carefully it’s like bakerlight ( if you’re old enough to know what I mean) for cracks n chips. I left mine overnight before topping coolant up. Don’t over torque down.

I only dropped the ball as got over excited when I got the pulley off, just mark up.

Other than that it’s relatively straight forward’s honesty

I replaced my pulley bolt but only because I didn’t want to take the risk as I was initially trying it anti-clockwise

Hope this helps, just take your time and go slowly

Car was fine afterwards

 

[Jimby]

Yes… it’s a left hand thread which I had acknowledgment from Fiat senior tech and a member on here, which is ‘Crank pulley Nm is 124-137Nm and LEFT HAND THREAD’!

That's a real wow factor for me, I suppose the engine spins the reverse way, which isn't unknown, or it means my old method of wedging a spanner in there and hitting the starter will be a total fail. At least I have a tip-top rattle gun that's mains powered and will undo anything now, a much better tool than the budget handyman air rattle guns that serfs like myself fail with.

 

[Boom]

Eh up all

Not checked threads lately so sorry for late reply

Boom - after a bad start everything went well, covered most in my thread. The nut is Left Hand Thread.

Just take it slow and mark up pulley position, and make any scribes you can to double check it’s in the same place on refit

Also use the lock out hole aligned to the block - see my thread

Bolts on water pump cover and low torque so come of easy

Belts no problem

Dry of all mating faces before refit. Check the case carefully it’s like bakerlight ( if you’re old enough to know what I mean) for cracks n chips. I left mine overnight before topping coolant up. Don’t over torque down.

I only dropped the ball as got over excited when I got the pulley off, just mark up.

Other than that it’s relatively straight forward’s honesty

I replaced my pulley bolt but only because I didn’t want to take the risk as I was initially trying it anti-clockwise

Hope this helps, just take your time and go slowly

Car was fine afterwards

TTR - Your a diamond, thanks for this reply means a lot!
Yeah l brought the kit to lock down the pulley as recommended! Did you end up using the whole kit? Flywheel pin/cam etc.

Really interested to know if you used a sealant when re fitting the cover buddy, I purchased a new rubber seal so wasn’t too sure if a sealant would interrupt the new seal against the block if that makes sense!

Got to love a bit of bakerlight makes things more interesting!

 

[Boom]

That's a real wow factor for me, I suppose the engine spins the reverse way, which isn't unknown, or it means my old method of wedging a spanner in there and hitting the starter will be a total fail. At least I have a tip-top rattle gun that's mains powered and will undo anything now, a much better tool than the budget handyman air rattle guns that serfs like myself fail with.

Think this has caught a few people out over the years! There is just not a lot of information out for the TA, without digging real deep to find stuff!

 

[TTR]

Eh up Boom

I used the rubber seal plus belt n braces with sikoflex , I ran to outside edge of seal, when you see it make sense. Just a smear.

I wasnt pi88ing around risking a coolant leak after all my issues- it’s your choice of course it’s not specified or probably needed.

I wish I’d locked out from start , I ended up using most of kit plus common sense checks in my case with old fashioned long screwdriver in plug apperture to gauge I was at top travel on cylinder

I wasn’t sure where I was as somehow lost / not sure I checked where the pulley alignment was as got over excited at figuring out the pulley bolt was Left Hand after attacking the bolt with my breaker bar and scaff pole extension . Hence got now bolt as amazing I didn’t stretch or break the bolt!!!

Make sure you align with the pulley hole and block hole, pin guide will make sense when you line it up. Double check - make a brew - check again

Get a catch bowl for coolant when you break the cover - save going down arms and over floor.

Take photos too - might be worth posting on here to help others like I did ( and in my case provide entertainment!!!)

 

[Boom]

Wicked… thanks once again! I must admit I was entertained with your posts.. was like reading a horror novel with all what happened!… I can see loads of people doing the same tho, I think I would have without reading the posts.
I’ve never had to research so much on such a simple water pump job.
Like you just don’t want to mess this one up she’s a cracking car… only 19k 500 Riva

Roll on next week