Technical Loosing coolant

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Technical Loosing coolant

l0586

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Hi all,

I have a 2015 Panda. I'm loosing coolant very slowly. I've had the cam belt done and was told there was little leak in the water pump, after this there was a airlock what was then topped off but its now gone a slither (3-5mm) under the fill line. there appears to be no damp in the footwells or signs of coolant around the engine, the only thing I can see is in the coolant cap there is coolant above the rubber so thought it may be leaving out of their? any advice or places to check will be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
If you've had the cambelt done they should of put a new water pump on it at the same time, it's a general rule of thumb as the water pump runs of the cambelt. I take it it's a 1.2, there are 2 areas on this engine I would check,

1) Thermostat housing:
These are notoriously common on the 1.2, where the coolant hose connects to the housing the outlet on the housing is plastic, if in good order it should be dead clean with no anti freeze residue.
thermostat1.jpg
The picture above if you look closely there is a pink residue around the housing & hose, this is the 1st warning sign of a faulty housing, following the residue it starts leaking onto the gearbox then eventually collapsing where the plastic outlet has become so brittle which would also lead to instant head gasket failure if not switched off in time, this is one of the very few parts where aftermarket alternative is much better as they have a metal end instead of plastic, they are usually around £20-£30 from a motor factors with a new thermostat inside.

2) Steel coolant pipe:
Another common one on the 1.2 is this steel coolant pipe which goes across the front of the engine which connects near the water pump, these pipes corrode & start leaking, we've just changed the pipe on my dad's Punto 1.2 which is the same age as your Panda as that was starting to leak due to corrosion, the part came from Shop4Parts & had a much better seal than the original part, it was around £25-£30 with the forum discount
55245750.jpg
The picture above shows the offending pipe where it goes across front of the engine near the exhaust manifold, the end with the seal goes into the block by the water pump, getting the exhaust manifold heat shield off gives a little better access as this is what my dad did with the Punto
 
If you've had the cambelt done they should of put a new water pump on it at the same time, it's a general rule of thumb as the water pump runs of the cambelt. I take it it's a 1.2, there are 2 areas on this engine I would check,

1) Thermostat housing:
These are notoriously common on the 1.2, where the coolant hose connects to the housing the outlet on the housing is plastic, if in good order it should be dead clean with no anti freeze residue.
View attachment 451812
The picture above if you look closely there is a pink residue around the housing & hose, this is the 1st warning sign of a faulty housing, following the residue it starts leaking onto the gearbox then eventually collapsing where the plastic outlet has become so brittle which would also lead to instant head gasket failure if not switched off in time, this is one of the very few parts where aftermarket alternative is much better as they have a metal end instead of plastic, they are usually around £20-£30 from a motor factors with a new thermostat inside.

2) Steel coolant pipe:
Another common one on the 1.2 is this steel coolant pipe which goes across the front of the engine which connects near the water pump, these pipes corrode & start leaking, we've just changed the pipe on my dad's Punto 1.2 which is the same age as your Panda as that was starting to leak due to corrosion, the part came from Shop4Parts & had a much better seal than the original part, it was around £25-£30 with the forum discount
View attachment 451813
The picture above shows the offending pipe where it goes across front of the engine near the exhaust manifold, the end with the seal goes into the block by the water pump, getting the exhaust manifold heat shield off gives a little better access as this is what my dad did with the Punto
The water pump was done with the can belt. Already had the thermostat go and replaced. I tried looking for the steel pipe but can’t locate it, if it is they is it a easy fix?
 
Hi all,

I have a 2015 Panda. I'm loosing coolant very slowly. I've had the cam belt done and was told there was little leak in the water pump, after this there was a airlock what was then topped off but its now gone a slither (3-5mm) under the fill line. there appears to be no damp in the footwells or signs of coolant around the engine, the only thing I can see is in the coolant cap there is coolant above the rubber so thought it may be leaving out of their? any advice or places to check will be appreciated.

Thanks.
Is this a 1242cc petrol? 🤔
 
"But its now gone a slither (3-5mm) under the fill line."
Really , if system has only recently been filled with coolant you can expect a small drops in the level for days or even weeks afterwards. Because tiny air bubbles trapped in the system will take time to escape.
 
"But its now gone a slither (3-5mm) under the fill line."
Really , if system has only recently been filled with coolant you can expect a small drops in the level for days or even weeks afterwards. Because tiny air bubbles trapped in the system will take time to escape.
So initially after a 40min drive it dropped half way from max, the next morning from sitting it went to just under min. Then it down the little bit so I assumed the air blocks where over with.
 
So initially after a 40min drive it dropped half way from max, the next morning from sitting it went to just under min. Then it down the little bit so I assumed the air blocks where over with.
If it's losing coolant at that rate, I'd advise you not to drive it again until it's fixed.

Low coolant is the achilles heel of the 1.2 FIRE; it can blow a HG before the temperature gauge even registers the overheat.
 
The water pump was done with the can belt. Already had the thermostat go and replaced. I tried looking for the steel pipe but can’t locate it, if it is they is it a easy fix?
s-l1200~2.jpg
Here is a picture of the 1.2 FIRE engine as in your Panda, so this is the front of the engine as you'll see when you lift the bonnet, usually the exhaust manifold would be there, the steel coolant pipe is the black pipe in the picture which usually is behind the manifold. It is doable with the manifold in place it's just a little more fiddly
 
If it's losing coolant at that rate, I'd advise you not to drive it again until it's fixed.

Low coolant is the achilles heel of the 1.2 FIRE; it can blow a HG before the temperature gauge even registers the overheat.
So since the topping up it’s still appearing to remain the slither under
 
If it's just falling a slither off the max, then I'd be much less worried. It'll likely stabilise soon, unless you've a minor leak somewhere.

Minor leaks can be hard to find; this might help. You can buy a kit with fluid and a UV torch for a few pounds.

I'd thought it was falling from max to below minimum every time you drove it, which would be a cause for immediate concern.

They often do this the first time you fill them from empty, but the system will self bleed after a number of hot/cold cycles if you keep topping up.
 
View attachment 451859
Here is a picture of the 1.2 FIRE engine as in your Panda, so this is the front of the engine as you'll see when you lift the bonnet, usually the exhaust manifold would be there, the steel coolant pipe is the black pipe in the picture which usually is behind the manifold. It is doable with the manifold in place it's just a little more fiddly
What does it actually involve changing the pipe do I need new coolant etc? Thanks.
 
What does it actually involve changing the pipe do I need new coolant etc
You need to lower the coolant to at least below the level of the pipe.

The easiest way is to syphon it out; this also avoids any collateral damage you might cause by either loosening the bottom hose or releasing the quick connect at the bottom of the rad (which often breaks if you try to disconnect it).

If you are careful, work with clean equipment, and avoid contamination, you can put the coolant back in at the end of the job.
 
What does it actually involve changing the pipe do I need new coolant etc? Thanks.
Before even trying this, you need to be sure the level is still going down owing to a leak, and not owing to air being purged from the system or leaking from the cap (remember in the original post there was talk of some coolant being in the cap - possibly suggesting it’s leaked via the pressure relief valve in the cap or its sealing o-ring). It would be cheaper/easier to replace the cap as a first line of repair rather than trying to remove the pipe across the engine.) How far has it been driven since the work was done, and has it made a few journeys where everything has got fully up to temperature? If there is a leak from that pipe it should be fairly obvious - either through being wet, or by a clear sign of dried coolant (crusty ‘scale like’ deposits) around or under it.
 
Last edited:
Hi all,

I have a 2015 Panda. I'm loosing coolant very slowly. I've had the cam belt done and was told there was little leak in the water pump, after this there was a airlock what was then topped off but its now gone a slither (3-5mm) under the fill line. there appears to be no damp in the footwells or signs of coolant around the engine, the only thing I can see is in the coolant cap there is coolant above the rubber so thought it may be leaving out of their? any advice or places to check will be appreciated.

Thanks.
I had the same problem I replaced the coolant exspanstion tank sorted it if you check eBay you will get it with a new cap at good money
 
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