Technical Key fob not working

[polyfrog99]

Hey guys,

I picked up a Panda 100hp at the start of the year to replace my 1.2 panda, but I'm having a bit of trouble with the keys. I've got a key fob with buttons and a spare key without. Both work fine with the physical key and start the car, and lock and unlock it with no problems. But the car doesn't respond to the remote buttons on the key fob.

I've checked the voltage on the key's battery, and taken the key to a local key shop, who confirmed it was giving off a strong signal. They weren't sure what the issue is and said they thought there may be a problem with the car itself. So I called up another place who claim to also be auto locksmiths, hoping they might have more ideas. But they said the same thing - must be something wrong with the car. I've had a search online though and haven't found anyone else with this issue, or anything on the car that could cause this. My instinct is that maybe the key is sending out a garbled signal or something, but what do I know!

What do you guys think? Is there anything on the car I can check? There's no warning lights on the dash.

 

[varesecrazy]

Hey guys,

I picked up a Panda 100hp at the start of the year to replace my 1.2 panda, but I'm having a bit of trouble with the keys. I've got a key fob with buttons and a spare key without. Both work fine with the physical key and start the car, and lock and unlock it with no problems. But the car doesn't respond to the remote buttons on the key fob.

I've checked the voltage on the key's battery, and taken the key to a local key shop, who confirmed it was giving off a strong signal. They weren't sure what the issue is and said they thought there may be a problem with the car itself. So I called up another place who claim to also be auto locksmiths, hoping they might have more ideas. But they said the same thing - must be something wrong with the car. I've had a search online though and haven't found anyone else with this issue, or anything on the car that could cause this. My instinct is that maybe the key is sending out a garbled signal or something, but what do I know!

What do you guys think? Is there anything on the car I can check? There's no warning lights on the dash.

Most cost effective is get the body computer scanned for Ucodes,

There Is probably a module not communicating properly..
The code will reveal what

 

[polyfrog99]

Most cost effective is get the body computer scanned for Ucodes,

There Is probably a module not communicating properly..
The code will reveal what

Thanks, I'll order a code reader and see if I can find anything

 

[varesecrazy]

Thanks, I'll order a code reader and see if I can find anything

Beware the cheap ones only see P codes for the engine..

Look on the forums MES register

 

[koalar]

All keys have to be present and working when any software is run, any keys missing or faulty at that time will be permanently blacklisted, did the auto locksmith do this


Normally is this part the comes unsoldered and sometimes even missing

Resoldering, fixes a high percentage

 

[polyfrog99]

All keys have to be present and working when any software is run, any keys missing or faulty at that time will be permanently blacklisted, did the auto locksmith do this


Normally is this part the comes unsoldered and sometimes even missing

Resoldering, fixes a high percentage


View attachment 464877

I don't believe he ran any software, he just had this little box which he put the key in, and when a button was pressed on the key the box lit up 3 LEDs to show it had a good strength signal. The other place I phoned said this was all they would do too so I didn't bother going over.

I've attached photos of my key's pcb, it looks a little different to your photo but I can't see anything that looks wrong with any of the parts. I put some fresh solder on that long component after taking the photos but made no difference. Multimeter is showing continuity through it too.

 

[koalar]

Yep that's the part just epoxied instead of open

Try and get a closeup of the pads one here

Not quite enough detail to see much, but the writing on the top is crystal clear

Could be shadows but doesn't look like a manufacturing flow solder joint, maybe someone's been here already

 

[polyfrog99]

Yep that's the part just epoxied instead of open

Try and get a closeup of the pads one here

Not quite enough detail to see much, but the writing on the top is crystal clear
View attachment 464896View attachment 464900
Could be shadows but doesn't look like a manufacturing flow solder joint, maybe someone's been here already

Sorry, my phone doesn't like to focus close up, can't get a good photo! I've put fresh solder on both sides now and it's showing continuity straight away on the multimeter, but still no change unfortunately

 

[the green vanper]

The Panda keyfob is the same as the Ducato one.

There are TWO DIFFERENT functions on the keyfob:

- central locking operated with the buttons (and microswitches underneath, on the PCB board) which send a signal to the BCM;
- immobilizer operated via the transponder, which sends a signal to the loop antennae around the ignition barrel.

Both functions need to be programmed to the BCM. When I choose Ducato in MES, I have 2 separate coding menus. In the 2003+ Panda 1,4 16V I can only see one coding menu. However they are separate on the Parameters tab:

All keys need to be programmed at the same time. You need a registered version of MES, an interface that connects to the BCM and the FIAT CODE code which is printed on the card you should have received with the car. I haven't received the card, but I asked at the dealership and they printed me the code from their system free of charge upon proof of ownership.

The programming is done on the Adjustment tab:

Panda (with a Siemens BCM):

Ducato (with a Magneti Marelli BCM):

On the Parameters tab you'll be able to see details of the key / immo usage (1st screenshot above).

I assume when the locksmith checked the keyfob central locking function he tested the strength of the signal, which he confirmed was OK (which also means the battery is OK). However he didn't confirm that the keyfob communicates with the car BCM.

Don't mess with the PCB solders until you check on the BCM side. There are no pre-programmed PCB available anymore, getting a new PCB became problematic. And I was quoted 400 EUR+ to get a spare made by FIAT.

 

[koalar]

That's a shame, 9 times out of 10 that's all that's needed

You can with the correct software interigate the body computer look at the expected code and received MultiECUscan can not do this

Unfortunately people with the correct equipment charge like a heard of elephants

You can sync the keys again with fairly basic software like MultiECUscan however it's not without risk, You must do all key at the same time, any keys missed will be permanently disabled

 

[polyfrog99]

Sounds like multiECUscan is my best option - I had feared trying this as the risk of blacklisting keys if I mess it up sounds a bit scary! Best not mess it up then eh.

I'll get hold of multiECUscan and see if reprogramming does anything

 

[the green vanper]

Be sure to have the correct FIAT CODE.

 

[koalar]

Sounds like multiECUscan is my best option - I had feared trying this as the risk of blacklisting keys if I mess it up sounds a bit scary! Best not mess it up then eh.

I'll get hold of multiECUscan and see if reprogramming does anything

Correct

There are a few things you can check first

There are reports that parking near a smart meter can interfere with the signal, try away from buildings, I am slightly sceptical that this is true, it is my understanding they aren't transmitting all the time

Also I am sure you will have already tried from inside the car, the near the antenna the better, built into the body computer just above the accelerator pedal