Panda (Classic) John Dragon Man's 4x4 Sisley

[abarth stabler]

I use Autoglym bumper and trim gel.

I use the same and I must say it does a brilliant job, I use it once every couple of weeks, takes about 10 mins to do all the trim and it makes the car look like new!

 

[onemanmade]

I have found that tyre slik makes an excellent black trim restorer.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

I used this personally (cheaper in local shop). Amazing stuff that iirc purple haze recommended to me

Simoniz 1831507 Back to Black Bumper and Tyre Gel 500ml: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

 

[Dippydave]

Was good seeing you at thoresby john. Did you suss out the Ferrari was a kit car lol ?? I will find out those details for you for the car show at renishaw and maybe see you there. It's just off junc 30 off m1. Dave

 

[Dragon Man]

i never knew! thought it was legit! whatever, it looked awesome.
yeah be good to have the details

Tomorrow i go to buy more panda parts, Talon has been after for some time.
who knows, i may get more also.

 

[panda panda]

Respray or roller job?

I'd be interested in knowing what a full glass out and prepped respray would cost.

The only thing is it would turn an everyday car into a high days and holidays car, and as I've found with the white CLX - one that is too good for me!

 

[VmanC]

Respray or roller job?

I'd be interested in knowing what a full glass out and prepped respray would cost.

My experience of going elsewhere for a paint job has shown me that you get what you pay for.

A proper respray ideally needs to be done in an oven. Paying a bodyshop that has the right facilities and level of skill, and desire to put out a good job will cost around £2500 for a Panda.

 

[pandamaniac]

Vern
Surely you can get a blow (over) job cheaper than that.
Dave

 

[blu73]

couldn't agree more vern. You can get a pretty good job done with limited kit but you never gonna get it perfect like a pro can with a dust free booth and oven etc. That said I'm not sure the ultimate finish of that route is always required - depends what your end goal is with the respray.

 

[VmanC]

Vern
Surely you can get a blow (over) job cheaper than that.
Dave

I bow to your greater experience Dave.

 

[Dragon Man]

So. what did i get for Talon then?

one Rust free door, and one somewhat rust free door!















now that is the kind of door rust i can sort out!

just a note, theres a post in the classifieds section selling multiple panda parts. his "stock" is a little gold mine. he has multiple brand new parts and loads of 2nd hand parts. if you need something.. anything.. give him a ring!

 

[onemanmade]

So. what did i get for Talon then?

one Rust free door, and one somewhat rust free door!















now that is the kind of door rust i can sort out!

just a note, theres a post in the classifieds section selling multiple panda parts. his "stock" is a little gold mine. he has multiple brand new parts and loads of 2nd hand parts. if you need something.. anything.. give him a ring!

Cracking mate!

 

[Dragon Man]

just bought 500ml of rust converter. the same stuff they use on sea going boats and ships so it must be good stuff!

i am going to catch this rust before it goes into the "eats all the way through the skin" phase.

these doors are going to get rust proofing like no one has ever seen before.

the white one does have filler in the bottom of the door but that was because of a dent.. not because of rust

its a good job so i am going to leave it as it is.. maybe give it a little bit of sanding near where the bottom of the trim sits.

i also need to make up a template of where the holes for the trim clips need to go.

should be all good.

 

[PuntoHowTo]

just bought 500ml of rust converter. the same stuff they use on sea going boats and ships so it must be good stuff!

Jenolite is the stuff the military use, and I've used many times before on landrovers and various other rusty cars gates etc, it's basically phosphoric acid which reacts with the iron oxide and turns the rust into iron phosphate (a white powder) and oxygen, while not touching the good metal it is expensive though

http://jenolite.net

 

[Dippydave]

John it was a Toyota mr2 with a fibreglass kit fitted, add in a few genuine Ferrari parts like alloys and it fools most people. Having said that its cost my mate 10k to build it !!!! Better than upwards of 40k tho. I was just having a go in it lol.

As for jenolite it's VERY effective. But as already said its expensive.

 

[Dragon Man]

i did a bit of work today on the doors.

the rust had worked its way a fair stretch under the sealant and lip.

however i have chased it all the way and i think i am at a point where i can say i think i have found it all.

i am going to have to reseal it all as i have opened the lip up using pliers and a flat blade. it was a must do thing to do though.

check these pictures out..











yeah pretty sure i can save that.

i have scraped all of the larger chunks of rust out, i do have to wire brush it, and more scraping is needed.

so far no holes have appeared in it!

i think the rust converter will do the job, i will be able to bend it all back into shape after painting it inside the lip then when its dried i will just fill the door full of what ever oil is the best to use. then waxyol. or the other way around..

 

[Dragon Man]

well.. all loose rust chipped off. i found 2 small holes in the lip that the door skin folds over i think i can leave them there though.

i have painted everything with the rust converter, even between the skin and the lip..

heres some pictures:







i still have some more work to do on this corner. it needs the paint sanding back.










This is the stuff i am using:


am i doing it wrong? as i am not sure... i know i can hide most issues with filler. though i would like to use as little as i can.

please do comment.. i'm going to need all the help i can get. i have never done bodywork before.

 

[panda1408]

John, what you are doing is ok, but I think I would have cut those sections out and put in some fresh metal, what's there looks very thin and even with the rust converter it might not last all that long before it starts to come back.

You also need to remove as much of rust as possible when doing this sort of thing, looks like you have only scraped it back? A wire wheel on a drill works ok but a poly strip and clean disc on a grinder is much more effective, there are also rust remover gels that can be used aswell.


Are you planning on painting the car yourself then John?

 

[Dragon Man]

i cant spray anything to save my life. it would have to go to a pro.

as for cutting metal on the doors and welding new in, i dont think i am capable of doing that.. i am more of a "industrial" welder than a elegant welder..

truth be told, i cant see me ever getting talon cosmetically looking good. all little dents filled with filler, the doors all painted up nice. i just dont have the skills for that kind of thing.

i know i am going to make a huge mess of this door but it will be the best i can do with what i have. sadly bodywork wise i have nothing really.. and naturally i will be trying to do everything as cheap as i possibly can.

i only keep going with it because.. well.. .. err.. i dont know i just do it because panda.

i guess its why fallout will be a better car for me.. other road users will stay away from me and if it does get a scratch or dent it wont matter.

 

[nitro_warrior]

John, what you are doing is ok, but I think I would have cut those sections out and put in some fresh metal, what's there looks very thin and even with the rust converter it might not last all that long before it starts to come back.

You also need to remove as much of rust as possible when doing this sort of thing, looks like you have only scraped it back? A wire wheel on a drill works ok but a poly strip and clean disc on a grinder is much more effective, there are also rust remover gels that can be used aswell.


Are you planning on painting the car yourself then John?

I agree with this. I tend to flap disc and or wire cup on a grinder the metal to shiny and cut out the bad bits. Then I use the rust converter (similar to what) you have. I like to under coat with a good zinc primer like Galvafroid before painting too.

That said, grinding would almost certainly have made a hole and more work. Doing what you are is fine for now - it will come back though, but then you will have more experience and it will be easier!!

Oh and painting. Just remember once you have smoothed with filler, the next layer of primer, paint, or Raquel will never hide or smooth a blemish it will make it worse! So always make sure the coat you are about to spray over is perfect!