Technical immobiliser problem

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Technical immobiliser problem

stevehebburn

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hi, i was having a problem with a sticking ignition key on my 55 panda mj. so i have fitted a used replacement barrel with key.;) i swapped over the key chips, tried to start car, dash lights came on, but engine wouldnt crank. im getting immobiliser light on. i try again a few times, & the light will go out:confused: but engine wont crank , but will bump start.:eek: so im getting power sometimes. i switch ignition off. then i have to repeat this procedure quite a few times. :bang: i know its most likely immobiliser. or possible loose wire ? what do you suggest how to fix it :worship: all i have done is replace the ignition barrel/key& chip. there are no dtc codes.. . cheers guys .steve (y)
 
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switch on the back not working properly by the sound of it.

I would start by looking at the contacts and compare with the original

Fiat fit two different types for some reason. The pins are different thicknesses

take a look on ebay you should be able to view both types.
 
hi, its possible the rear plastic switch could be faulty.(where multiplugs fit).which has not been replaced. the barrel looks the same as the 1 i took out. it came from a 05 petrol panda ( mines a 55 mj) but i will take out barrel& switch, to compare ,the car was working fine up to when key wouldnt turn. would have to jiggle it to get ignition to turn on. as car is parked at my friends works compound, a few miles away. i will post my findings later today. thank you for your help.(y)
 
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ok. bought & fitted complete ignition switch( today) with steering lock & key.:) from a known working panda. swapped over key chips.;) as before, still got immobiliser light on . engine wont crank. what next ? bypass the immobiliser somehow:confused:. i had a similar problem with a 05 1242.. a few months ago. i scrapped it.as it was a skip . but this mj is a really tidy panda. ive had it 3 years. cheers, steve(y)
 
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I think..
Your body computer needs the original key chip and ring aerial to read it

Have you unclipped the aerial and placed the original key within it?

Thats what the same era puntos needed to clear the immob.

Im not sure if you might still have a connection issue though as it doesnt crank
 
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My 05 multijet as a switch with 5 connections one big 4 small,
petrol's seem to have 7 some with one big and 6 small the other
maybe 7 big not sure.
If it does not recognise the key the fuel pump comes on then cuts out
but the engine will spin on the starter but not start.
 
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ok. bought & fitted complete ignition switch( today) with steering lock & key.:) from a known working panda. swapped over key chips.;) as before, still got immobiliser light on . engine wont crank. what next ? bypass the immobiliser somehow:confused:. i had a similar problem with a 05 1242.. a few months ago. i scrapped it.as it was a skip . but this mj is a really tidy panda. ive had it 3 years. cheers, steve(y)

the First thing to do is to check the the switch contacts

because its for a Panda it doesn't mean it will work

fiat use two different types

You could hang the original steering lock and see if it will Crank. Probably too far away from the antenna to start though

without checking the contacts are the same as the original the rest of the thread became pointless and could drag on for another three pages


with the immobiliser light on it should still Crank but not start
 

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Hi I have a related problem with my ignition switch, wherby it's quite stiff go from MAR to engine crank I've tried some WD40 into the barrel to no avail. Any ideas anyone.
 
WD is not the right product. You need a specific lock lubricant to do any good. I got a tiny spray from my locksmith and it has worked wonders on all the locks I have used it on. It does appear to be different to anything else I have seen. I will dig it out and put the product details up later.
 
WD is not the right product. You need a specific lock lubricant to do any good. I got a tiny spray from my locksmith and it has worked wonders on all the locks I have used it on. It does appear to be different to anything else I have seen. I will dig it out and put the product details up later.

Correct

WD40 is basically a candle dissolved in a solvent. Once the solvent evaporates of all that's left is a sticky goo. Not ideal for a lock


I suspect the problem is due to the grease drying out on the nylon cams at the back.

there a right pain to take out.

with the plastic shroud off you can just see a fraction of the White discs and the return spring. There's probably just enough of a gap to squeeze in some fresh grease. But I have never tied myself.

You could also try dipping the end of the key in some meths / alcohol and jiggling it a few times in the lock
 
hi, tried 2 ignition switches today exactly same pin fitting as original :confused: same key chip tried in all. disconnected battery/ecu/ switch, overnight. total waste of time. :mad: alloys & new battery removed now fitted on my 09 active eco. immobiliser must be a common fault on pandas, as lots of owners are having same problem. i give up:bang: gonna phone around, see how much im offered spares or repair/scrap. thanks for the suggestions guys. steve (y)
 
I treid to reprogram my old Bravo keys to the Panda as they are similar looking / same shape. The ECU refused. Keys seem to have a key type code and a writable code and both these need to be correct to work. In my Case MES gave an error message. If you have removed the lock you may need to swap the aerial over this is the plastic ring around the key slot as stated here elsewhere
 
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hi, tried 2 ignition switches today exactly same pin fitting as original :confused: same key chip tried in all. disconnected battery/ecu/ switch, overnight. total waste of time. :mad: alloys & new battery removed now fitted on my 09 active eco. immobiliser must be a common fault on pandas, as lots of owners are having same problem. i give up:bang: gonna phone around, see how much im offered spares or repair/scrap. thanks for the suggestions guys. steve (y)

you need to slow down

First there isnt a common issue with the CODE system of the body computer and or ECU. Ignition switch contacts do fail.

Second you didn't initially have a problem with it you had a working car just sticking a bit. Put the original parts back and you are back to a working car

If not then something got damaged

third how the heck do you keep getting and swapping these ignition switches so quickly


There's no instructions as far as I know on aligning the two nylon cam disc at the back. Unless they are exactly right the car will not Crank. Getting them in sync and engaged with the return spring is pot luck

I am surprised the clips haven't broken by now. There really a one shot snap together getting the apart Once without one breaking is pushing your luck

fourth with a blank key and no chip it should Crank but not start. At least that what happens on a 1.1L 2006. As far as I know immobiliser has no effect on crank

fifth once the car is reliably cranking you can look to the immobiliser antenna which may have got dislodged or damaged
 
You need to program the key to the bodycomputer. Or use the original barrel and have the key cloned to a spare.

gr J

I treid to reprogram my old Bravo keys to the Panda as they are similar looking / same shape. The ECU refused. Keys seem to have a key type code and a writable code and both these need to be correct to work. In my Case MES gave an error message. If you have removed the lock you may need to swap the aerial over this is the plastic ring around the key slot as stated here elsewhere

don't we need to address the no Crank First or am I missing something

the starters solenoid control wire is directly switch from the switch. Unless the diesel is different

the contacts are controlled by some cams at the back of the switch. I'd rather change a drive shaft than the ignition switch. getting it all working could take well over an hour especially if the discs get dropped as it not logical which way up they go


of cause I could be missing something obvious I usually do
 
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lets use

ignition switch, the bit at the back the wiring harness connects to
ignition barrel, the bit the key slides into
ignition lock, the bit the First two bits fit into
ignition assembly, the First three parts


its confusing as ignition switch can have at least three different meaning depending on who says it


has the ignition lock been drilled out and a different on fitted Yes or No
 
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