Technical How to fit a 16v Fire engine in a Panda
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Technical How to fit a 16v Fire engine in a Panda
ahh right, hmm i dont know now..
maybe you could ask in the Fiat Cinquecento section? they have done far more engine swaps over there than we have here in the panda classic section.. :shrug: :/
maybe you could ask in the Fiat Cinquecento section? they have done far more engine swaps over there than we have here in the panda classic section.. :shrug: :/
#andyholli what was issue with your the swap? I do recall something about single wire neg vs. Positive.
Found it at the top of this page
Found it at the top of this page
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hi mate could you take some pics of the wires that need to be spured to code box and how you got the 30amp fuse running plus were you spured into you panda ignition!! as iv bought a another mk1 punto so i can take everything i need as i was getting no were with the old wiring thanks.
It will be at the NEC all weekend if you can get there to take a proper look at the connections...
Although I can't remember the details, I do remember there wasn't much to connect once you got your head around what was going on. Spend an hour stripping out and staring at the Punto should be time well spent.
My code box stayed connected as it was in the Punto - no wires to chop or change, just moved across with the rest of the engine loom, ecu, etc.
30amp supply direct from the battery +ve terminal for me. - Same as the Punto set up.
Although I can't remember the details, I do remember there wasn't much to connect once you got your head around what was going on. Spend an hour stripping out and staring at the Punto should be time well spent.
My code box stayed connected as it was in the Punto - no wires to chop or change, just moved across with the rest of the engine loom, ecu, etc.
30amp supply direct from the battery +ve terminal for me. - Same as the Punto set up.
Fixed that for you
At that rate 16v mk1 going to varnish before I'm up for the job.
With all the respect, please read and understand all what has been already written/said on here, follow wiring diagrams for both engines, makes wire markings/tags, make as much notes and photos as possible. If that still fails, please leave it to person who knows what they are doing.
If you still want to progress the swap by yourself, please start with listing in clear untestable way all actions taken by you already, parts taken from donor car ( exact spec), parts removed from panda, etc.
We don't know what has and what hasn't been done, therefore we can't help.
Regards
At that rate 16v mk1 going to varnish before I'm up for the job.
With all the respect, please read and understand all what has been already written/said on here, follow wiring diagrams for both engines, makes wire markings/tags, make as much notes and photos as possible. If that still fails, please leave it to person who knows what they are doing.
If you still want to progress the swap by yourself, please start with listing in clear untestable way all actions taken by you already, parts taken from donor car ( exact spec), parts removed from panda, etc.
We don't know what has and what hasn't been done, therefore we can't help.
Regards
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Clearly not.
is it mk1 or mk2 donor?
Is there fuel in the tank?
Is there fuel at fuel filter?
Is there fuel at the injector/s?
Is there spark at all plugs?
yes mate its a mk1 AND everthing is working but the only thing letting me down is i cant get no spark to any of the plugs because i dont no were to join the red/black wire to the panda loom and the orange wire were to join on panda ignition + spur to code box for both
the red/black wire goes to the + terminal of the battery.
find ANY ignition live wire, and splice the ORANGE wire into that.
the blue/white wire connects to a light bulb. you can ignore this wire.
make sure that the original matching key for this new ECU and code box is held in place THROUGH the loop aerial with tape.. and make sure the loop aerial is connected to the code box.
--------------
so to recap:
black/red = CONSTANT 12v+
Orange = IGNITION SWITCHED 12v+
Blue/white = IGNORE
a good place to find an ignition switched 12v+ is the fuse box!
in fact.. here:
the bottom row, 2nd fuse along. a 15 amp fuse with a picture of the indicators (<-->) below it. this fuse has an ignition live feed it. Tap into that with your orange wire.
i hope this makes it more easy to understand
find ANY ignition live wire, and splice the ORANGE wire into that.
the blue/white wire connects to a light bulb. you can ignore this wire.
make sure that the original matching key for this new ECU and code box is held in place THROUGH the loop aerial with tape.. and make sure the loop aerial is connected to the code box.
--------------
so to recap:
black/red = CONSTANT 12v+
Orange = IGNITION SWITCHED 12v+
Blue/white = IGNORE
a good place to find an ignition switched 12v+ is the fuse box!
in fact.. here:
the bottom row, 2nd fuse along. a 15 amp fuse with a picture of the indicators (<-->) below it. this fuse has an ignition live feed it. Tap into that with your orange wire.
i hope this makes it more easy to understand
its a mod i had to do when my indicator relay stopped working. i didnt have the correct one to replace it with but had some others. i just found a 3 pin one that almost worked, then added the extra wire
the white wire makes the turn signal bulb in the dash light up. it was hard to make it do it as the relay gives an output for left and right. not just one output the column switch then routes left or right.
the white wire makes the turn signal bulb in the dash light up. it was hard to make it do it as the relay gives an output for left and right. not just one output the column switch then routes left or right.
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hmm ok, well we could learn a lot by now attaching a bulb to that white/blue wire..
on a bulb you have 2 connections, connect one connection to the white/blue wire, and the other connection to a 12v+. make sure that the white/blue wire NEVER contacts the 12v+ wire as it will fry the code box.
i would use a festoon bulb, like the one that is above the rear view mirror.
doing this will tell us if the imobiliser is being lifted.
the light should flash with the key out of the ignition. when you switch the ignition on the light should come on solid for a second, then go off completely.
if the light stays on solid with the ignition on it means theres a fault reading the key.
try moving the key placement around a little. they can be fussy.
also this sounds daft, but have you made sure that the crank position sensor is connected. do you get any "sounds" when you now turn the ignition on? like the fuel pump? or any relay clicking?
i am not sure if the 16v engine has them but i know on mine i have 2x purple relays and some fuses. make sure they are all ok if you have them.
i know some just have one white relay and a fuse. i know if the relay is not clipped in correctly it can also cause issues. also check the fuse too.. pull it out and push it back in again. fuses not making good contacts are quite common.
edit: i have just made a video for you to have a look at. i hope it helps you. (its uploading now)
on a bulb you have 2 connections, connect one connection to the white/blue wire, and the other connection to a 12v+. make sure that the white/blue wire NEVER contacts the 12v+ wire as it will fry the code box.
i would use a festoon bulb, like the one that is above the rear view mirror.
doing this will tell us if the imobiliser is being lifted.
the light should flash with the key out of the ignition. when you switch the ignition on the light should come on solid for a second, then go off completely.
if the light stays on solid with the ignition on it means theres a fault reading the key.
try moving the key placement around a little. they can be fussy.
also this sounds daft, but have you made sure that the crank position sensor is connected. do you get any "sounds" when you now turn the ignition on? like the fuel pump? or any relay clicking?
i am not sure if the 16v engine has them but i know on mine i have 2x purple relays and some fuses. make sure they are all ok if you have them.
i know some just have one white relay and a fuse. i know if the relay is not clipped in correctly it can also cause issues. also check the fuse too.. pull it out and push it back in again. fuses not making good contacts are quite common.
edit: i have just made a video for you to have a look at. i hope it helps you. (its uploading now)
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