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Technical How does one inspect the 4x4 components?

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Technical How does one inspect the 4x4 components?

SB1500

SB1500

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I had posted on the 'What made you smile today' post about potentially buying a 2019 Panda 4x4. The only thing holding me back, is missing service history and on a TwinAir, I'm not up for taking the chance. I doubt the dealer will come back to me with anything meaningful or 'guaranteed' despite his offers to check in with the last owner to find missing services. ...but if he did..

How would I be able to get a quick, decent look at the 4x4 bits on the sales lot? I don't mind getting down under the car to look, problem being, I wouldn't know what to look at or look for.. or even listen for during the test drive (especially over the delightful rumble of the TwinAir - which, from watching videos online, I think I am in love with!).

Any 'idiots field guide' tips on how to spot red flags with the 4x4 components?
 
4x4 specific?

  • Prop-shaft centre bearing is housed in a rubber/metal bonded bush which seems to be vulnerable to debonding/cracking (but no more than any other bonded rubber suspension component) maybe try and see inside the protective guard with an inspection light?
  • Evidence of oil leaks around rear diff (drive shaft and prop-shaft seals)
  • Rotting out of sump guard (or check that it is even there!) this can be replaced DIY with removal of 6 x 10mm a/f bolts (M6)
  • Rear discs - these are fiddly to replace but it's not as bad as some suggest!

 
Eltezz said:
I would be more worried about the condition of the clutch/DMF combination and the UniAir module than the 4x4 bits. I just had the clutch and DMF done on my TwinAir by the Fiat workshop and that came to £1280. UniAir module would be similar.

And as @Panda IIs has already mentioned above...
Click to expand...
I wouldn't disagree but clutch/DMF is rather more user dependent - longevity relies on a degree of mechanical sympathy of previous drivers?!

Uniair unit, and service intervals has I think been flagged earlier to the OP in another thread?

@Eltezz that seems a little steep for clutch/DMF did it include some "extras"? I had mine done there fairly recently and don't recall it being that much?
 
Have a look at the file I've attached to post #5 of this thread:
www.fiatforum.com

Rumbling | FIAT Panda (2012+)

I recently had to have my prop-shaft bearing done on my fiat panda 2013 4x4 . Ever since there seems to be a slight rumble when driving the car . I have put this down to the fact that the garage had to take the prop-shaft off to fit the new bearing, and its been like that since . However driving...
www.fiatforum.com www.fiatforum.com
The newer car has an electronic clutch at the front of the rear differential, but otherwise, will be very similar.
Propshaft needs to be present.
Centre support bearing needs to be in good condition. Inspect like any other rubber mounting.
Front of diff needs to be oil-free, no leaks. Leaks could be from diff, or expensive coupling.
Check the diff mountings. Like all rubber mountings, they can age. There have been posts about them on here. They can be expensive.

On a test drive, feel and listen for any noises or vibration. Difficult to test the 4wd system, unless you can arrange to place one or more wheels on a slippy surface.
 
SB1500 said:
I had posted on the 'What made you smile today' post about potentially buying a 2019 Panda 4x4. The only thing holding me back, is missing service history and on a TwinAir, I'm not up for taking the chance. I doubt the dealer will come back to me with anything meaningful or 'guaranteed' despite his offers to check in with the last owner to find missing services. ...but if he did..

How would I be able to get a quick, decent look at the 4x4 bits on the sales lot? I don't mind getting down under the car to look, problem being, I wouldn't know what to look at or look for.. or even listen for during the test drive (especially over the delightful rumble of the TwinAir - which, from watching videos online, I think I am in love with!).

Any 'idiots field guide' tips on how to spot red flags with the 4x4 components?
Click to expand...
One is no expert but one supposes one would do something like this from one's pit.

Thanks for the grammar though. It's a crop rarely grown these days.

1742826940714.png
 
My experience (of four successive 4x4s and over 200,000 miles in them) is that most of the system is pretty robust. The key point of failure is the rubber ‘doughnut’ that holds the bearing half way along the propshaft. The most cost-effective repair of this seems to be a new propshaft — around £300 for the part.

One of mine (a 2012 model) developed a small oil leak from the rear differential unit, replaced under warranty, but the other three were/are leak-free. I don’t think this is a common problem.

Failing vehicle battery can lead to ‘4x4 unavailable’ messsges, but this is simply a problem caused by an ageing battery and resolved when a new battery is fitted.

As others mention, the rear brakes of the 4x4 are disc (unlike all other Pandas). As well as being ‘tricky’ to replace the discs themselves (needs doing every 40k miles or so), they can suffer from not being ‘exercised’ through frequent use with a load in the boot. This shows as rusty discs compared to the fronts.

As it’s a TwinAir, again as mentioned by others, more likely that there will be engine and clutch issues rather than 4x4 system problems, apart from that propshaft support.
 
Panda IIs said:
4x4 specific?

  • Prop-shaft centre bearing is housed in a rubber/metal bonded bush which seems to be vulnerable to debonding/cracking (but no more than any other bonded rubber suspension component) maybe try and see inside the protective guard with an inspection light?
  • Evidence of oil leaks around rear diff (drive shaft and prop-shaft seals)
  • Rotting out of sump guard (or check that it is even there!) this can be replaced DIY with removal of 6 x 10mm a/f bolts (M6)
  • Rear discs - these are fiddly to replace but it's not as bad as some suggest!
Click to expand...
This pretty much says it!
 
a couple of ‘wheel spinners’ (one under each front wheel) at £55 the pair would be able to test that the 4x4 does actually work, but I can only find one company selling these (for large+heavy motorcycles) and they are individually rated at 200kg max weight (would 400kg be enough for the front of a Panda 4x4?)
 

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JayAre said:
a couple of ‘wheel spinners’ (one under each front wheel) at £55 the pair would be able to test that the 4x4 does actually work, but I can only find one company selling these (for large+heavy motorcycles) and they are individually rated at 200kg max weight (would 400kg be enough for the front of a Panda 4x4?)
Click to expand...
That's a fun thought. If the front wheels spin, the rear wheel should automatically join the party, catapulting the car off the spinners. Best not be facing a wall, or cliff, or swimming pool, etc.
Followed by, "Used wheel spinners for sale. Great condition, used only once."
 
portland_bill said:
That's a fun thought. If the front wheels spin, the rear wheel should automatically join the party, catapulting the car off the spinners. Best not be facing a wall, or cliff, or swimming pool, etc.
Followed by, "Used wheel spinners for sale. Great condition, used only once."
Click to expand...

in the absence of a nice patch of snow/ice, or a handy muddy field, two “wheel spinners” are the only way to prove the 4x4 system (and also the ELD) actually work

 
Just move the front wheels to a kerb 90 degrees on. Try and drive up. Engage 4x4 and try again, the difference is enormous. Tyre deformation reduces by 50% too. Take off from a t junction using full power. You will know if the 4x4 isnt working as the wheels will spin if it doesnt work and if it does you will just depart with at most a very small chirrup from the front tyres. With a trailer and a heavy right foot its even more marked.
 
The Panda Nut said:
Just move the front wheels to a kerb 90 degrees on. Try and drive up. Engage 4x4 and try again, the difference is enormous. Tyre deformation reduces by 50% too. Take off from a t junction using full power. You will know if the 4x4 isnt working as the wheels will spin if it doesnt work and if it does you will just depart with at most a very small chirrup from the front tyres. With a trailer and a heavy right foot its even more marked.
Click to expand...

suspect the dealer might not be too happy with this testing method…🤣

1742939406598.gif
 
JayAre said:
in the absence of a nice patch of snow/ice, or a handy muddy field, two “wheel spinners” are the only way to prove the 4x4 system (and also the ELD) actually work

Click to expand...

A gravel driveway will do the trick too. Also; my road joins a the main street in the village via a Give Way T junction. This requires a left or right turn usually from standstill. The combination of the steering being on left or right lock and booting the accelerator makes the outer front wheel spin and the engages the 4x4 almost simultaneously - you will know whether its working or not! You can't beat that shove in the back from the seat as everything grips and the 85 horses are allowed to do their trick (especially effective with the 6 speed short first gear) :LOL:
 
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