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Technical HEATER Matrix unit removal

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Technical HEATER Matrix unit removal

Thanks guys! It's really not too bad. I'm not a great or very confident mechanic but it is a case of just dismantling and then putting it back together. I used the Edd China 'top tip' of taping bolts and screws to pieces of paper with diagrams showing where they go back.

Interestingly, here in Italy it seems more of a common problem. This is a recent discussion on the Italian forum: https://translate.googleusercontent...d5d0af&usg=ALkJrhjtOO9BBrdw_amMPnrtoAzx6h5keA

It's linked through Google so the translation isn't perfect. I'm happy to see on page two a Barch in the same sad state as mine.. They talk about 'turafalle' this is radweld.

I'll let you know when it's all back together.. We had rain yesterday.. First time in 100 days. It's a sign! :rolleyes:
 
Update: I stripped the dash out weeks ago but then got sick with a really bad flu (3 weeks!) and then had to catch up with work and other things. Today I finally got everything back in. Even though I had a lot of nightmares about not remembering how it went back together it was very straightforward. I did put labels on all the electrical plugs (masking tape and marker pen) and this really helped.

On first start up everything worked apart from the heater blower (fan)!:confused::confused: I'd just left it unplugged, so that was easy to fix. Then I got the engine hot to test the heaters and there was no heat despite both pipes going to the heater matrix being hot, so it had to be a control problem. The cable had come off the heater unit that controls hot - cold. It was easy enough to get to and push back on. Then everything was good. I just need to get insurance and the AC gas refilled then I can start enjoying it again.

While the interior was heavy stripped I decided to take everything out and insulate the entire floor with two layers of car insulation (I used Silent Coat). I'll let you know what difference it makes. I also changed the front speakers to Alpine SXE-1750S. The difference is huge compared to the originals and there was no sound insulation around/behind them so just adding that must be making a big difference. And I've decided to scrap the rear speaker box. It takes up a lot of space and doesn't look so great (in my opinion) and I'll probably go for roll over hoops.

So, if you have a leaking heater matrix just put aside plenty of time and go for it. I'm not an accomplished mechanic but found it fairly easy. If you ever need some help, don't hesitate to ask. The worst thing about the job is the time it takes, but it's a labour of love and you'll probably enjoy it as much as I did!

Photo: part way through the soundproofing. I then added a foam on top of this, but not all as I was worried the rubber matting wouldn't go back in.
bar1.jpg



The car this evening in full working order - apart from no AC gas..
bar2.jpg
 
Nice work - and thanks for the helpful tips. After replacing the heater matrix on an Audi 100 many years ago, I swore I'd never tackle another one, but I'd now be tempted to give it a go on the B. Still hope I never have to, though!
 
Hi gar074, for sure I'm glad it's now done.. I read on the Italian forum that one guy said he did it in one night! It's probably the best way so you have a better chance of remembering how it goes back. I just look forward to driving it now. Good weather is here and I just insured it. I've promised the wife a drive down to the Amalfi coast. All the best!
 
hi there ! i just both a barchetta 5 months ago , now i found out that i have a small leak in the heating radiator only notice wen it's in heating position... it seams sooner or lather i must put hands to work...
i have done similar work before but never in a barchetta , so , beside it's a real "pain in the ass" work specialy dismantling with out a manual in this case it's even worse because it's dificult to get parts if you break some plastic part in the process...
i have been following this thread and i found it very usefull specially richit ones that just ended is job , so i will be in the "asking mode" looking for tips from you guys ...
now i just need to get some time out to get the job done without any rush !
great job "richit" (y)
sorry for the lecture :D
 
Hi JMSG. Yes, mine started as a small leak.. then turned into Lake Como. It's a real pain to do but it's not hard. If you like, I can make a short video to give a rough idea how to do it. I would have loved something like that before I started so I'll be happy to do it. You can also find a link somewhere on the forum to download the manual. It was very useful.

I broke a few things...:mad: but that's how it goes. I did managed to repair everything though. Get some good strong epoxy resin glue and you'll be fine ;)

Let me know if you need help!!
 
As a footnote to the heater matrix issue, does anyone know the cause of leaks? Is it corrosion or just poor quality materials? I religiously change my coolant every 2 years in the hopes that corrosion doesn't happen. Am I wasting my time?
 
i wood apreciate the video alot "richit" and if possible detailing where are located the screws that atach the dash , how to get the air vents out , the best way to remove the plastic covers of the windshield colums.
those are the things that i found more usefull because they are hiden at first site and it's usual having plastic clips that are easy to mount but much hard to dismantle speacialy if we don't have a clue hand force it to find out there is a chance off braken it... as you no !
i have allready pulled out the instruments cluster for fixing the partial km counter (another usual) some time ago ...
the rest of the job i think is easier because we can see how it works...but very labourous...
 
davefridge , the heating radiator it's made off plastic , aluminium and some sealents , so, it's resistant to corrosion , and if we change the liquid regulary there are not many chances of deposits that make the radiator to obstrutc stoping it to heat .
the thing is , like as been said before , it does many cycles of heating and cooling , so the materials expand and contract so many times that eventualy they crak...
or , like as also said before , " it's the greemlins":D
 
Davefridge, in addition to what JMSG said, a very common failure mechanism is pollen, seed, dust, leaves etc. getting through a damaged/missing pollen filter and forming a moist organic sediment to the bottom of the heater against the heater core. I've seen this happen a few times with different cars, and in these conditions the heater core will corrode quickly. So, if you have pollen or dry seeds flying around your cabin when you turn your heater blower to full blast, it's an indication that things are going to get ugly pretty soon.
 
As soon as I have a chance I'll fill my old rad with water under pressure to see exactly where it leaks. It looks in good condition and it is clean looking. I don't remember seeing natural debris but it might well be the reason. I'll do the video as well. We have horrible weather at the moment and work is busy so as soon as the sun is out again and I have minute, I'll do it.
 
no rush ! just take your time :cool:
in the mead time i have found the service manual at the forum and i download it, top information :yum:
just found what i was looking for !!! and much more !
i have printed the most usefull parts to have in hand wen doing the job .
GREAT FORUM (y)
 
Finally! She's back on the road. First job was to get the AC refilled. That was easy - and cheap and all is working fine. Apart from:
1. The rev counter keeps dropping to zero - must be a connection so I need to take the pod out. Again..
2. The right painted interior panel is squeaking so that needs looking at.
3. The new mats I bought from Ebay are terrible. They slide all over the place so I have to stick them down with double-sided tape..

We only drove about 40 minutes but the car feels very different with the sound insulation. Feels more solid and of course there's less noise from underneath. A worthwhile improvement I reckon (total cost was about £120 - all from Amazon.co.uk). The car was out of the garage for the first time in 5 months, all clean and gleaming, then we had the first hailstorm of the year.. The stones weren't too big so the car is fine and we did manage to get the storm cover on it.

Photo: Getting the gas refilled. Just €55!
gas.jpg
 
Ilkka said:
Davefridge, in addition to what JMSG said, a very common failure mechanism is pollen, seed, dust, leaves etc. getting through a damaged/missing pollen filter and forming a moist organic sediment to the bottom of the heater against the heater core. I've seen this happen a few times with different cars, and in these conditions the heater core will corrode quickly. So, if you have pollen or dry seeds flying around your cabin when you turn your heater blower to full blast, it's an indication that things are going to get ugly pretty soon.
Click to expand...

Pollenfilter? I didn't know we had such advanced items! where's that hidden then?
 
Ah! That's interesting.. When I was having the AC refilled the mechanic asked if I'd changed the pollen filter. I thought he was nuts. I'll check it tomorrow and report back. My car does have AC and the matrix still went. It's a small hole in one of the tubes.

On a different matter - anyone know why my gears crunch (not too badly) only at high speed going up from 2nd to 3rd. Doesn't seem to do it on other gears. THANKS!
 
I just checked, my car that has AC, doesn't have a pollen filter.. just a hole straight down to the fan. I have to go to a spares shop tomorrow so will ask if they list anything.
fan.jpg
 
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