Technical Gears not working in heavy traffic

Currently reading:
Technical Gears not working in heavy traffic

Adrian7410

New member
Joined
Jan 24, 2024
Messages
1
Points
1
Location
Bedford
I have a fiat 500 lounge 2014 and occasionally in heavy traffic the gears won't engage.
Here's what I've had done:

New clutch
New master and slave
Drive shaft leak fixed

But still happens. I know this is a common issue on these cars but aside from the things I've had fixed - any ideas what it could be? Drives fine the rest of the time - only happens in heavy traffic and rectified by pumping the clutch.
 
Model
Lounge 2014
Year
2014
Mileage
50000
New clutch
New master and slave

The symptoms point to one or both of these things; the hydraulics especially given that it can be

rectified by pumping the clutch

I'm wondering if whoever replaced them did the job properly.

I'd start by bleeding the clutch hydraulic circuit to see if that improves things.
 
The symptoms point to one or both of these things; the hydraulics especially given that it can be



I'm wondering if whoever replaced them did the job properly.

I'd start by bleeding the clutch hydraulic circuit to see if that improves things.
Is the pedal bite point very high? IE at the top of the pedal travel? if so and bleeding the system does not help- then your clutch plate might be nearly worn out? anything in the cars history to suggest it has ever been replaced ?.
 
Is the pedal bite point very high? IE at the top of the pedal travel? if so and bleeding the system does not help- then your clutch plate might be nearly worn out? anything in the cars history to suggest it has ever been replaced ?.
The OP says in their first post that the clutch has been replaced recently.
 
I agree that gears not working would send me to look closely at the clutch hydraulics, but also consider the gear linkage as a possible suspect, but I'm not sure exactly what. I would also lubricate the clutch release arm pivot the top can be seen on top of the gearbox. 3 in One spray penetrtive oil would be my choice for this. Look for anything that is interfering with the clutch pedal action. If someone else is with you ask them to press the clutch when it happend and look under the bonnet and see if the slave pushrod is actiually moving. If not it adds to the hydaulics theory.

Also clarify of the gears still engage when the engine is turned off off. If it does think clutch hydrualics, if not linkages. Check that the gearbox has oil in it too. It wouldn't be the first time gearboxes have not been refilled after interfereance.
 
I agree that gears not working would send me to look closely at the clutch hydraulics, but also consider the gear linkage as a possible suspect, but I'm not sure exactly what. I would also lubricate the clutch release arm pivot the top can be seen on top of the gearbox. 3 in One spray penetrtive oil would be my choice for this. Look for anything that is interfering with the clutch pedal action. If someone else is with you ask them to press the clutch when it happend and look under the bonnet and see if the slave pushrod is actiually moving. If not it adds to the hydaulics theory.
The OP is saying that pumping the clutch pedal enables gears to be engaged; that seems to me to point to a clutch actuating issue rather than a problem with the gearbox or selector cables.
 
The OP is saying that pumping the clutch pedal enables gears to be engaged; that seems to me to point to a clutch actuating issue rather than a problem with the gearbox or selector cables.
Agree totally, that's a classic air in the system symptom. A suspect would be the tiny O ring seals on the quick release fittings if these have been disturbed, but you would expect a leak. Essential to monitor the brake fluid level and check for leaks at any pipe unions, especially the one under the battery. If a garage had disturbed this changing the slave cylinder it would explain it, so check under the car below the battery for fluid leaks. If its just air, bleeding might fix the issue. I fitted new slave and master cylinder to our Panda a year ago. The pedaldid stick down. I have found these things can get dry quite quickly even when new. I spray silicon lubricant under the slave cylinder rod gaiter and have found this works wonders with no apparent side effects. It seems to stop the squeaking noises that old slave cylinders make too. A failing master cylinder would also bea possibility. My only experience of a bad master involved the pedal sticking down.
 
Last edited:
Main suspect would be the tiny o ring seals on the quick release fittings
That.

There's something to be said for dispensing with them entirely and replacing with a suitable hydraulic connector between the two bits of pipework.

I prefer to think of them as 'quick assembly fittings'; they doubtless save a few seconds in the factory.

But anyone who's tried to release one on a >10 yr old car would not describe the releasing process as 'quick' !
 
That.

There's something to be said for dispensing with them entirely and replacing with a suitable hydraulic connector between the two bits of pipework.

I prefer to think of them as 'quick assembly fittings'; they doubtless save a few seconds in the factory.

But anyone who's tried to release one on a >10 yr old car would not describe the releasing process as 'quick' !
Suitable pipe connectors for the under battery fitting were available on eBay for about £6 when we did the hydrualics 18 months ago. Sold for the Ford KA
 
That.

There's something to be said for dispensing with them entirely and replacing with a suitable hydraulic connector between the two bits of pipework.

I prefer to think of them as 'quick assembly fittings'; they doubtless save a few seconds in the factory.

But anyone who's tried to release one on a >10 yr old car would not describe the releasing process as 'quick' !
Had this issue this weekend on my wife's beloved 500. The X8R repair kit sorted it easily. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23552556...81JhdClQN-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Back
Top