Hi, which gearbox oil do i need? I've checked the EVO manual but it doesn't say which I need.
Technical Gearbox oil
- Thread starter AnthonyH
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Technical Gearbox oil
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What's wrong with you?
Manual says exactly what you need, page 252/253 !
https://archive.org/details/fiat-punto-evo-owners-manual/page/252/mode/2up
This is easy, "Google-able" information.
Manual says exactly what you need, page 252/253 !
https://archive.org/details/fiat-punto-evo-owners-manual/page/252/mode/2up
This is easy, "Google-able" information.
vexorg
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There are people that keep dealers in business, I'm starting to think the OP is one of them.
Must be GL4, not GL5.
If you can't get Tutela there are plenty of GL4 equivalents, eg Total
OP
OP
Yep. That's fine.
That's the very stuff. Note it's rated as GL4 plus? I've been researching this as it's not actually listed as a spec in the API listings. API GL4 and API GL5 yes but nothing with a "plus" in their official spec lists. However there are a few manufacturers now listing a GL4 plus oil and I believe it to be a lubricant to the GL4 spec with certain enhanced anti friction properties but without the additives which erode "yellow metals" - which is what caused all the problems when people used a GL5 oil in a 'box for which GL4 was specified. For those who've not heard of this problem it was that the GL5 caused rapid excessive wear in components like synchro rings, bushings, selector forks and other yellow metal components. I believe now that most GL5 oils are blended so this effect is very greatly reduced but, personally, I wouldn't risk it. If a GL4 is specified I wouldn't risk a GL5 - Mostly GL5 was historically used in units with high load and high shear, so final drives, worm gears etc. You need to be aware of this when being given advice by well meaning but relatively ignorant sales people. Typically the argument is that GL5 is a newer product and heavier duty so protects your gearbox better than GL4. It's a bit like comparing oranges and avocados, just makes no sense when you "know"
By the way, what we're talking about here is the "stuff" which does the "heavy lifting" in the oil. You still need to be sure you're buying a product with the correct viscosity - in this case that's the sae 75W-85
OP
OP
The fiat gearbox oil looks non standard at gl4 plus. It's difficult to understand why fiat didn't use gl4 or gl5. So I possibly paid a slight premium for this stuff.
The vendor is shop4parts and on the back of the bottle it specifically mentions fiat. The last thing I want to do is accelerate gearbox deterioration.
I bought one litre and presume that'll be enough. Anyone know the capacity of a standard Evo/GP gearbox?
The vendor is shop4parts and on the back of the bottle it specifically mentions fiat. The last thing I want to do is accelerate gearbox deterioration.
I bought one litre and presume that'll be enough. Anyone know the capacity of a standard Evo/GP gearbox?
I think it's around 1.6 litres
I bought 2 litres for our 1.2 Panda (169 model) and the same again when I changed the oil in my boy's 2012 Punto in both cases there was a small amount left over.
In both instances I used the Tutela. I've seen too many 'boxes ruined by people either using a "cheap" oil or being conned into using a "superior" - and often more costly - product or using after market additives. So be very wary of using what you might judge to be a "better" product because it's advertised claims it's the best thing since sliced bread! Where ever possible I now use only the specific product recommended by the manufacturer. If I really can't get that I would only use another manufacturer's product if it carried the manufacturer's endorsement. I'll qualify this by saying that older vehicles, like our Pandas and Puntos are likely to be much more tolerant of lubricants but newer vehicles? (like my recently owned Seat Ibiza and now my Skoda Scala) the lubricants are so individually formulated as to be almost transmission specific (let alone vehicle specific)
Be very wary of engine oils too. Older designs like our non turbo, lightly stressed FIRE engines are surprisingly tolerant so, in our moderate climate, really almost any 5W-40, or maybe 10W-40 if the engine is getting on a bit, will get the job done (because I'm a bit obsessive though, I would still be looking for an oil which complied with the Fiat spec) Different story all together with modern turbo'd engines - As soon as you see that word - TURBO - you need to be very careful about oil choice. Turbo's stress the hell out of lubricants so you really really need to use exactly the right oil and change it regularly. I wouldn't even think about extended interval services on a turboed engine. Recently there's been a lot of problems with chain driven cams wearing out their timing chains and/or tensioners. you can ward this off to some extent with very regular oil changes but it's interesting that some of the oil manufacturers are now developing oils specifically to combat this problem. So, if you've got a chain cam engine be very careful about what oil you put in it and don't over stretch the service interval either timewise or mileagewise and, if it's an older model, it might be worth asking the main agent whether there's been a recent change in recommended oil - bearing in mind what I just said about new oil formulations.
Finally, with regard to gearboxes being damaged/ruined, one of the biggest reasons is probably ignoring an oil leak - I'm not talking about a "dampness" or small "weep", nearly every Panda I've owned and my boy's Punto, weeped a small amount of oil from the gearchange rod on top of the box. I only do something about this when it leaks enough that the oil starts to run down around the driveshaft. Transmissions tend to contain quite small amounts of lubricant so any substantial leak can cause enough of a drop in level to cause problems and should be promptly dealt with. Can I also suggest that if you want your 'box to last a long time you take care about selecting reverse gear. Reverse gear doesn't have any synchro so if you try to engage it immediately after depressing the clutch pedal then the gears won't have had time to slow down and the teeth will clash, - If you listen when you're out and about it's surprising how often you hear this. - which results in minute bits of metal being chipped off which then circulate with the oil and get into bearings etc shortening their life, Easy to avoid, simply pause for a very short while after depressing the clutch and before moving the gear lever into reverse. I count "bananas"! So, Clutch pedal down and then I say, in my head, "one banana, two banana", and then move the lever. If the gears still crunch you've probably got a dragging clutch.
That is the actual Fiat standard recommended oil. used to be manufactured by Selenia which was owned by FIAT but they were taken over by Petronas hence the rebranding to Petronas. You probably couldn't buy better. Sometimes buying the actual oil recommended by the manufacturer does cost a "bob" or two more but it's not as if you're buying gallons of the stuff or changing it every service so the cost is minimal in the long run. If the 'box is drained, one litre won't be enough.
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Any harm in topping up instead of changing?
Gearbox doesn't normally use oil unless there is a leak. Best to change the the oil after a fairly large mileage, say70,000. I don't think there is a specific recommended oil change interval for the gearbox, but may be wrong.
Nope, top up whenever needed. I check transmission oil level at annual service. I'm under there to do the oil change so doesn't take much longer to whip the plug out of the side of the gearbox (car needs to be level though of course). If needed, top up. but if level is low enough to need more than a teacup full then I'll be looking for the leak. I would drain and refill with new oil every 50,000 miles unless the manufacturer calls for a smaller interval. I don't believe in "filled for life". I always drain the oil into a nice clean container - usually an old engine oil container with he side cut out - and look very carefully for "sparklies" and other "foreigners" in the old oil. I also would do this after having been for a good drive in the car, maybe 10 to 15 miles minimum, so the oil gets nice and hot so is thinner and drains better.
Edit. One thing I always do is to change the gearbox oil as soon as possible after buying a used car. This ensures the correct oil is in the box but also lets me check the old oil for contamination which might alert me to keep an eye - or ear? - out for "alien noises" when driving it.
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OP
OP
I checked the manual and there wasn't any guidance on timeframes to change gearbox oil. It would probably be better to change the oil but I'm wary of opening the drain in case it has some kind of problem. And I won't have enough oil. I'll keep track of how much I need to put in, that'll give me some kind of indication of how long the axle has been leaking.
I may develop confidence in the drain plug if the top up plug is easy to release and change it next year. I doubt the oil has ever been replaced and the engine is at 100k.
I may develop confidence in the drain plug if the top up plug is easy to release and change it next year. I doubt the oil has ever been replaced and the engine is at 100k.
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Yes, be sure you can open the filler plug before you touch the drain plug
OP
OP
Just remembered the engine mount on the car is cracked, so it's had a new clutch or gearbox at some time in the past. Is the right oil in there? Hmmmm.
I think I used a long Allen key to undo the the drain plug and it needed a tap with a hammer
OP
OP
I have a sump key set, not checked but probably one of those fit. I had to get a 16mm socket on the key to loosen the sump plug. So will need to do that again.
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