Shop4Parts - UK's largest online superstore for FIAT and Alfa Romeo parts

General Fiat 500D Engine 1962

Currently reading:
General Fiat 500D Engine 1962

Be cautious of alloy components in the dishwasher as the salt in the washer can attack elderly aluminium
 
AndrewHarvey said:
Be cautious of alloy components in the dishwasher as the salt in the washer can attack elderly aluminium
Click to expand...
Good point. We don't use actual NaCl in our washer but the alloy does go dull. So maybe not my best advice. But I have road tested the result for a few years and not had any grit issues or warped and disintegrating parts. But I suppose time may tell??
 
fiat500 said:
They're on this thread Sean...540cc so-called "stoker" pistons.
https://www.fiatforum.com/500-classic/440875-abarth-pistons-barrels.html
I've heard of oven-cleaner and alloy-wheel stuff being used. But because I just need things to be physically clean and grit-free, after my de-greasing (or "greasing" as Tony put it:D ), I put it in the dishwasher.
Click to expand...
I checked that thread earlier but they are different to mine.
From what I can make out they are 540 pistons though. Just not sure what make.
 
Do you ever get the impression things weren't meant to be?
This poor old D engine is really pushing its luck!
When I removed the crankshaft and bearings, one of the main bearing cases broke. I didn't think much of it until I cleaned the block up.
There's a crack going through the crank case right through one of the bolt holes. now I'm not sure if the engine had previously been built with this crack in place or what affect it will have on the engine. As the bearings are bolted into the block, will this need welding?
I'm thinking of having it welded, then drill and tap the holes again to be on the safe side. Any thoughts?

The head has clearly had some work carried out before.
Its got brass valve guides and steel valve seat inserts.
One side does show a minor crack between the valve seats, but I'm guessing this is a heat crack and probably not an issue with the steel seats in place.
I have decoked the chambers & ports and opened up the exhaust ports to match the elbow gaskets. Filed the head flanges flat that the elbows bolt to as they were quite raised where the studs/bolts go into the head.
Just need to try and get it cleaner now!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1510.JPG
    IMG_1510.JPG
    1.7 MB · Views: 110
  • IMG_1511.JPG
    IMG_1511.JPG
    2 MB · Views: 114
  • IMG_1512.JPG
    IMG_1512.JPG
    2.2 MB · Views: 59
  • IMG_1518.JPG
    IMG_1518.JPG
    2.2 MB · Views: 72
Think I can see a couple of more cracks on that first photo Sean. Next bolt hole anti clockwise and next stud clockwise but I'm probably wrong. Be interesting to see how you fix it
 
Sean....
as the engine was not fitted in some of the original pics, could the engine have been dropped onto something or something (another engine) dropped on it?
I'd get it welded.. there are enough specialist who weld much worse....
More so if the number matched the ID plate...
 
Last edited:
Bad luck there Sean. My immediate instinct would be to ditch it, but that's a good point made if the numbers match, and you do seem to be going more for originality on this one.
I would take the head, cylinders and the block to the professionals for an assessment. That way you get an overall idea of feasibility and COST!:eek:
 
Damian don't do that to me! just checked there are no further cracks.
Peter L, I think its strange that this would crack here. I know the engine suffered an oil failure due to the pick up pipe being broken. This caused enough damage to cause the front bearing to pick up and possibly cause the piston ring to pick up on the bore causing the seizure.
But I cant see how that would cause the bearing housing to crack or the block. I can only presume one of the bolts was over tightened causing stress on the casing?
Yes I think its worth getting welded. After all as long as it is solid, the bearing housing takes all the stress. That's why I wonder if its worth getting it welded or just use some locktite or something?
Peter T, I'm surprised at you. You used to be so up for keeping it old and original. since you have got your new sun roof its "chuck it away get a new one".

Here's a test for your technical skills Peter. Do you know the part number of a 500D sport camshaft?
I was just checking my French 500D workshop manual and it shows a picture of the sport piston which looks like mine.
The only other differences seem to be larger valves in the head.
32/28 instead of the standard 30/27. Guess what I have the larger ones!
So if I have the correct camshaft I am guessing I might have a sport engine.
 
Does anyone have any images of the thermostat housing of a D or F model?
The early ones had a separate bar going from one side to the other.
My bushes are clearly worn out. My L model one has been tampered with and my 126 ones don't have the additional bar.
I would like to see how the bar was mounted as the new kit just comes with a length of threaded bar with nuts on each end - not exactly original!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1514.JPG
    IMG_1514.JPG
    1.8 MB · Views: 70
  • IMG_1513.JPG
    IMG_1513.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 76
  • IMG_1516.JPG
    IMG_1516.JPG
    1.9 MB · Views: 48
Franko500 said:
Peter T, I'm surprised at you. You used to be so up for keeping it old and original. since you have got your new sun roof its "chuck it away get a new one".
Click to expand...
:D:D:D
I didn't mean actually chuck it away:eek:
My originality kick is base partly on cost, reliability and convenience...ie. not involving "professionals"....it has always ended in tears for me.:cry:
The good thing is that you live in handy part of the world for finding the right people to fix that, so go with it. But I would just be uncomfortable with welded engine bits myself.
I'm impressed by your tenacity though, Superannuated Sean.:D:D:D
 
I'm not sure how to take that!
superannuated

  1. (of a post or employee) belonging to a superannuation scheme.
    "she is not superannuated and has no paid holiday"



  2. outdated or obsolete through age or new developments.



 
Franko500 said:
Does anyone have any images of the thermostat housing of a D or F model?
The early ones had a separate bar going from one side to the other.
My bushes are clearly worn out. My L model one has been tampered with and my 126 ones don't have the additional bar.
I would like to see how the bar was mounted as the new kit just comes with a length of threaded bar with nuts on each end - not exactly original!
Click to expand...


I think I might have a spare one in the garage. If I do and you want it, it's yours. Better than a picture
 
There are some special UV lamp flashlights out there special for crack inspections. UV light reveals lot of thinks, a practice we are using in aviation, you might give it a try I think I will buy one for myself also for my forth coming o/h.
As for your thermostat housing new bushes are available.
 
The only one I have from mine, not sure if it helps but it's not hard, you can advice also an illustrated catalog that had all the parts in detail.
 

Attachments

  • 20161202_233828.jpg
    20161202_233828.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 89
Paolo66 said:
I think I might have a spare one in the garage. If I do and you want it, it's yours. Better than a picture
Click to expand...
Cheers Damian, but I am sticking with my D one as they are a slightly different design to the F/L as they don't have the additional holes for the hollow bolts and certain brackets are different.
Trying to stick to original detail if I can on this one.
Don't know how long that will last if I keep facing challenges like I have had so far though.
 
If it's anything like the 110F and 120 cowlings, that distance bar is effectively a long, double-ended rivet. So the bar must be turned on a lathe at each end to make a shoulder and dimensioned to be a snug fit in the cowling. Then each end is domed down using one of those things I last used to make a toast-rack in metalwork at school over 40 years ago. Who uses toast racks?:bang:
I see a job just right for your Dad there.(y)
PS. Just spotted your observation which tallies with my own, ie. the bar is not present on the 120 engine. The flap return spring is internal to the cowling and has a different geometry.
Just about can be seen somewhere on here:
http://fiatforum.com/500-classic/438713-650-engine-rebuild-6.html
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

IanEmery
General 500D Looking for a new home.
Replies
0
Views
179
IanEmery
IanEmery
E
  • Question
General FIAT 500D
Replies
8
Views
812
hamiltos2
H
R
General 500D door gap hinge re-alignment
Replies
1
Views
346
The Panda Nut
The Panda Nut
H
General 1963 500D Bonnet
Replies
15
Views
534
Bigvtwin996
B
H
Technical rear brakes fiat 500d
Replies
2
Views
634
the hobbler
T
Back
Top