Technical End of chassis box section welding

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Technical End of chassis box section welding

Just zoomed in on left of left hand photo, that area may need a closer inspection.
Even so Mot Tester/examiner has only "advised", must assume he had a better look than what we can see on screen.
 
It needs a good pressure wash under there
Exactly. Then when it is thoroughly dry I would just brush it with gear oil now and again to stop it getting any worse. In my experience thick oil works better than paint under a vehicle - unless you are going to do a full restoration strip it down to the bodyshell and sandblast it etc. Often found rust growing under paint but never under oil. Never used to get any rust under the front of cars in the old days because they were always lathered in oil. Now we even get sump pans rusting throough because there is no leaking oil to protect them. You don't have to worry about cleaning all the rust and muck off either as long as the oil can soak through to the metal. Quick easy job. Some people use old engine oil but I don't because it stinks and stains everything it touches. And gear oil is thicker so clings better - you only need a small bottle of the cheap gear oil. As long as its clean oil modern detergents will wash it out of your clothes - its the black muck in used engine oil that stains - not the oil itself.
 
Well spotted bugsymike, I've had advisories about play on wheel bearings since I bought the van 17 years ago. Eventually had front ones done last year. I thought the OP's van had failed MOT. der! Ian.
I always stated Advisories, so it is best to read fully before typing.
 
Exactly. Then when it is thoroughly dry I would just brush it with gear oil now and again to stop it getting any worse. In my experience thick oil works better than paint under a vehicle - unless you are going to do a full restoration strip it down to the bodyshell and sandblast it etc. Often found rust growing under paint but never under oil. Never used to get any rust under the front of cars in the old days because they were always lathered in oil. Now we even get sump pans rusting throough because there is no leaking oil to protect them. You don't have to worry about cleaning all the rust and muck off either as long as the oil can soak through to the metal. Quick easy job. Some people use old engine oil but I don't because it stinks and stains everything it touches. And gear oil is thicker so clings better - you only need a small bottle of the cheap gear oil. As long as its clean oil modern detergents will wash it out of your clothes - its the black muck in used engine oil that stains - not the oil itself.
As an apprentice in the 60s after engine oil was changed I was then expected to put the old oil in a spray gun and spray the chassis and springs to give protection. What waste oil we didn't use the girls from the riding stable across the road used for the horses hooves in those days.
Even more recently where working on a vehicle with multi leaf rear springs I jack up on the body to open the leaves and spray with gear oil as you mention, it gives a much smooth ride as the springs slide against each other, especially of speed bumps and pot holes etc.:)
 
As an apprentice in the 60s after engine oil was changed I was then expected to put the old oil in a spray gun and spray the chassis and springs to give protection. What waste oil we didn't use the girls from the riding stable across the road used for the horses hooves in those days.
Even more recently where working on a vehicle with multi leaf rear springs I jack up on the body to open the leaves and spray with gear oil as you mention, it gives a much smooth ride as the springs slide against each other, especially of speed bumps and pot holes etc.:)
Exactly - I should have added you might not have to jet wash it if you can brush the thick muck off enough for the oil to soak down to the metal
 
Hi OP, In my experience an advisory is just that. Unless your MOT tester can see into the future, how can he know that the van will have to be repaired before it's next test. That is what threw me off. How long have you been driving and testing vehicles. Can you match my 50 years. At 71, sorry I missed the "advisory" part of your post because the main gist of it was to ask if the quote you received was reasonable. Again I say NO because the work doesn't need to be done. Your garage was either trying to frighten you, rip you off or just plain bulls**ting. Find a different testing station. Ian.
 
Advisories can sometimes be an honest difference of opinion between testers. I always go to the same place for my MOT tests and they only do MOTs - nothing else. So they have no incentive to suggest unnecessary repairs or replacements. One year they gave me an advisory saying the rear tyres were perished. But it passed with the same tyres at the same station for the following 2 years with no advisories. And I never commented or discussed it with anybody there. So I couldn't have influenced their opinion.
 
Your garage was either trying to frighten you, rip you off or just plain bulls**ting. Find a different testing station. Ian.
Sorry but I have to disagree.
I would be glad to know rust is starting there so I could brush a bit of oil on it and stop it before it turns into a big job.
 
That may be true, but not always a good idea to be "arsey" with people who have experience and are offering free guidance in a friendly manner.:(
I think back to my daughter starting to drive and getting the car MoT’d, she was frustrated with me as, being ex motor trade, I’d been too technical. Im useless with a lot of modern tech and can understand folk being necessarily or unnecessarily being worried about tech speak, especially if it’s written on ‘official’ paperwork
 
I think back to my daughter starting to drive and getting the car MoT’d, she was frustrated with me as, being ex motor trade, I’d been too technical. Im useless with a lot of modern tech and can understand folk being necessarily or unnecessarily being worried about tech speak, especially if it’s written on ‘official’ paperwork
True, the term "baffle with Bu** Sh*t " springs to mind, I found the same in computer stores until I taught myself to understand the subject.;)
 
Hi Reg65, Although I value your opinion, there is a world of difference between being informed of a bit of treatable rust and being given a quote for a thousand quid for repairing an advisory fault. The first is the garage showing due diligence. The second smacks of trying to generate custom from a "soft touch" m/h owner. We all know how rich motorhomers are. Ian
 
True, the term "baffle with Bu** Sh*t " springs to mind, I found the same in computer stores until I taught myself to understand the subject.;)
I can use a computer, iPad, etc but wehn folk start talking about how stuff is done I go into Homer Simpson world of chocolate…I’ve now received my MES package from Gendan and I’m going to get the wife to ‘load’ the interface and software for me. I’m not going to ask her what she’s doing only wehn it’s done and I can plug n play
 
Can we have some more pictures please ?

Fifferent angles, further along box sections....

If box section hit with a suitable bit of 3 X 2, or a small hammer, not the pathetic thing vosa say to use, is any ratteling heard ?

Internal rust *landing* due to hammer strike, usually with a dull thud....

On good solid steel, small hammer will *bounce off*, less good steel, bounce off less so, poor steel deform, corroded steel rattle, rotten steel hammer just goes thru...

The day will come when a special instrument will be used to measure steel thickness, and tester will be wearing a cam....

Eventually mot testing for cars/light vans will be government/vosa performed, not by private enterprise with all the associated "fraud".....
 
Can we have some more pictures please ?

Fifferent angles, further along box sections....

If box section hit with a suitable bit of 3 X 2, or a small hammer, not the pathetic thing vosa say to use, is any ratteling heard ?

Internal rust *landing* due to hammer strike, usually with a dull thud....

On good solid steel, small hammer will *bounce off*, less good steel, bounce off less so, poor steel deform, corroded steel rattle, rotten steel hammer just goes thru...

The day will come when a special instrument will be used to measure steel thickness, and tester will be wearing a cam....

Eventually mot testing for cars/light vans will be government/vosa performed, not by private enterprise with all the associated "fraud".....
Wheel tappers and shunters social club springs to mind
 
Wheel tappers and shunters social club springs to mind
Sounds like when I was an Mot Tester and used to bounce a decent size tyre lever along suspect areas, surprising how many times a large dollop of bodytfiller dropped out of what looked "strong" metal.;)
 
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