PumpkinFairylights
New member
I tried to start my car this morning and it won't go. These are what lights come up when I try to start it. I am a complete car novice so was wondering if anyone could shed any light on what could be wrong.
- Year
- 2006
Technical Car Won't Start
- Thread starter PumpkinFairylights
- Start date
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Technical Car Won't Start
I tried to start my car this morning and it won't go. These are what lights come up when I try to start it. I am a complete car novice so was wondering if anyone could shed any light on what could be wrong.
PumpkinFairylights
New member
Thank you for your reply. It makes that typical starting up noise, but doesn't actually start. It was fine this morning when I started it up just to move it slightly further away from the curb (I had parked it on the curb last night), but later when I went to start it to go somewhere, it was like that.
Does the fuel pump prime, buzzing from the rear rear seats when the ignition is switched on
Does the rev counter mover as the car cranks over
Post a few seconds of the ignition on, then cranking
Does the oil, battery or engine lights go out as the engine spins
Does the rev counter mover as the car cranks over
Post a few seconds of the ignition on, then cranking
Does the oil, battery or engine lights go out as the engine spins
Plenty of existing threads on the same topic. Have a look through those to see which matches your symptoms. Without more details it's difficult for anyone to provide an exact answer. As cars rely on a combination spark, fuel and air to run it could be anything affecting any one of these areas. You'll need to go through a step-by-step diagnosis to establish the issue.
The good news is that your photo suggests that the immobiliser light goes out. This will rule out any issues with the immobiliser or key. Double-check this by moving the key to ignition position 1 (position 2 is when you try to start the car) and watch which lights come on and then go out. See if the immobiliser light goes out before you attempt to start the car.
Start by checking the condition of the battery earth cables (there's a good guide to this by Andy Monty). They are notorious on Grande Puntos. You can test yours by running a jump lead from the battery negative terminal to the engine. If the car starts with the jump lead in place then this suggests that the earth cable is faulty.
If your earth cable is ok then (as koalar suggested) check if the rev counter moves slightly as you're cranking. If it does move then the crank sensor is working.
For 'no spark', check the condition of each spark plug one-by-one. Check that they're clean and have the correct gap. Lay the spark plug on the engine (ensure contact but don't hold it) and ask someone to crank briefly whilst you check for a spark. No spark could indicate an issue with the plug, ignition lead or coil pack.
For 'no fuel' lift the base of the rear seat and check whether you hear a whirring noise from the fuel pump when you turn the key to ignition 1. This indicates that the fuel pump is priming. However, even if it's priming this is no guarantee that the fuel pump is applying sufficient fuel pressure. Spray a bit of 'easy start' into the throttle body and then crank to see if the car starts and runs temporarily. If it does, check for adequate fuel pressure (there's a good guide to this by GrandePunto PL). I had a similar starting problem to yours recently and it turns out the fuel pump was faulty.
For no air check the the air filter housing and its inlet pipe, the air filter itself, and the throttle body. Clean the butterfly spindle to make sure it isn't getting stuck.
The good news is that your photo suggests that the immobiliser light goes out. This will rule out any issues with the immobiliser or key. Double-check this by moving the key to ignition position 1 (position 2 is when you try to start the car) and watch which lights come on and then go out. See if the immobiliser light goes out before you attempt to start the car.
Start by checking the condition of the battery earth cables (there's a good guide to this by Andy Monty). They are notorious on Grande Puntos. You can test yours by running a jump lead from the battery negative terminal to the engine. If the car starts with the jump lead in place then this suggests that the earth cable is faulty.
If your earth cable is ok then (as koalar suggested) check if the rev counter moves slightly as you're cranking. If it does move then the crank sensor is working.
For 'no spark', check the condition of each spark plug one-by-one. Check that they're clean and have the correct gap. Lay the spark plug on the engine (ensure contact but don't hold it) and ask someone to crank briefly whilst you check for a spark. No spark could indicate an issue with the plug, ignition lead or coil pack.
For 'no fuel' lift the base of the rear seat and check whether you hear a whirring noise from the fuel pump when you turn the key to ignition 1. This indicates that the fuel pump is priming. However, even if it's priming this is no guarantee that the fuel pump is applying sufficient fuel pressure. Spray a bit of 'easy start' into the throttle body and then crank to see if the car starts and runs temporarily. If it does, check for adequate fuel pressure (there's a good guide to this by GrandePunto PL). I had a similar starting problem to yours recently and it turns out the fuel pump was faulty.
For no air check the the air filter housing and its inlet pipe, the air filter itself, and the throttle body. Clean the butterfly spindle to make sure it isn't getting stuck.
With a car this old and with that mileage, and the problem appearing suddenly upon trying to start it, whilst the car ran normally on its last drive, and a "crank no start" situation, the most likely problem is the fuel pump, in my opinion, especially if it's never been replaced. Could be a miriad of other problems, of course, but that's the first thing I'd check.
I believe the fuel pump typically "goes" when ignition is switched on and not in the middle of a drive. Because the starting current of a non-moving pump is higher than the one of a pump already in motion.
Same thing with light bulbs: most of the time they fail when switching them on (the current is higher in a cold light bulb, too, but not for the same reason).
I believe the fuel pump typically "goes" when ignition is switched on and not in the middle of a drive. Because the starting current of a non-moving pump is higher than the one of a pump already in motion.
Same thing with light bulbs: most of the time they fail when switching them on (the current is higher in a cold light bulb, too, but not for the same reason).
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