Equally to the point, what is thread's recommendation to rustproof an OE sump guard?
Technical 4x4 sump guard
- Thread starter benmac
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical 4x4 sump guard
OP
OP
Yeah, I may take mine to a friend's workshop. Bit of a trek but he'll have everything required and I'm currently pondering getting the new one powder coated from the off. The powder coater I use does loads of off road stuff and has specific powders for heavy duty stuff like agriculture use. Job one is get the old one off and make sure there's suitable means of attaching the new one!
Is there any merit in isolating it via rubber/nylon spacers (I'm wondering if there's some catalytic (is that the right word?) reaction going on as the mounting points get very scabby, it seems)
WitleyPanda
Member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2016
- Messages
- 293
- Points
- 127
Galvanic the word you want? Unlikely to be. If you worried you could just bolt a zinc sacrificial anode to it, even a few galvanise washers would help.
WitleyPanda
Member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2016
- Messages
- 293
- Points
- 127
If the paint still in good condition, then it a choice between a underseal ( Dinitrol?) or a wax. Waxoyl seems to have gone out of favour, The bilt Hamber is oil rig grade or more environment would be the sheep lanoline based alternatives. Other choice would be Duck oil( Ensis oil for open deck cargo?)
If the paint/powder coat damaged then an ( expensive) zinc rich coating would be by personal choice. ZG90 or Galvafoid ?
Given it a sump plate and likely to get in contact with debris then expect to annually need to inspect/rectify?
Yep, that's the badger - I could spell catalytic though, I got myself in a real tangle with galvalytic and I knew I'd spelled it wrong
OP
OP
New sump guard acquired! I'm currently pondering getting the new one powder coated from new rather than rely on what is on there.
First job though will be getting the old one off. At least with the new one to hand I can use that as a reference as to what is old guard, what isn't and how much of the old one is already missing!
Oh, and I finally took a snap of the car yesterday when I introduced it to it's big sister who came out of the garage for the first time this year as there was a tiny break in the rain. I even found a part that is shared between the two of them!
First job though will be getting the old one off. At least with the new one to hand I can use that as a reference as to what is old guard, what isn't and how much of the old one is already missing!
Oh, and I finally took a snap of the car yesterday when I introduced it to it's big sister who came out of the garage for the first time this year as there was a tiny break in the rain. I even found a part that is shared between the two of them!
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2017
- Messages
- 939
- Points
- 303
I took a pragmatic view as I replaced mine on a '13 plate last year - to coat or not? Decided that since the original one had lasted 10 years then a quick hammerite job would do... The car would be unlikely to last another 10???
OP
OP
Yeah, I think that's a sensible approach. Bit of a scuff up for a key then a good coating of hammerite. It's not as if it needs to look pretty under there.
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2017
- Messages
- 939
- Points
- 303
No and it gets beaten up at each service unless you change your own oil.
lunchbeers
Established member
I'd be wary of powder coating as that's what generally fails and traps water in, I used black tetrosyl stonechip on mine and if I had the choice again, I'd go for Raptor bed liner as that's supposed to be incredibly tough.
I'd also steer clear of Hammerite as since they removed the toluene from it, it's absolutely dreadful, both from an application and longevity perspective.
I'd also steer clear of Hammerite as since they removed the toluene from it, it's absolutely dreadful, both from an application and longevity perspective.
Raptor, is that one of the paints that’s got glass fibre in it and resin, if so, it’s as tough as old boots but you have to key it on really well
OP
OP
Tonight's entertainment! Getting the old one off. Gold star to anyone who can tell which is the old one and which is the new one! 
As for the bolts about half came out after a soak in plusgas for a while. The other half sheared or were already sheared and the thing held on by zip ties
Apart from one of the ones in the locating brackets at the front the ones that sheared are the four towards the rear end. The two on the sides were amusing as they came out nicely but they weren't actually holding anything on as you can see from my picture!
The one that is on the front brackiet I think I may have a go at myself as I should be able to get the bracket off. I can then do it on the bench and also give the bracket a clean up and paint.
The rear 4 that are into the subframe I think I'll ask the local village garage to drill out and retap or put a helicoil in as I don't think I can get decently underneath and use a drill properly with it just lifted on my drive (I'd jacked it and put the front wheels on kitchen worksurface cut offs then chocked the rear wheels).
So, in conclusion, some annoyance but it could have been (a lot) worse.
As for the bolts about half came out after a soak in plusgas for a while. The other half sheared or were already sheared and the thing held on by zip ties
Apart from one of the ones in the locating brackets at the front the ones that sheared are the four towards the rear end. The two on the sides were amusing as they came out nicely but they weren't actually holding anything on as you can see from my picture!
The one that is on the front brackiet I think I may have a go at myself as I should be able to get the bracket off. I can then do it on the bench and also give the bracket a clean up and paint.
The rear 4 that are into the subframe I think I'll ask the local village garage to drill out and retap or put a helicoil in as I don't think I can get decently underneath and use a drill properly with it just lifted on my drive (I'd jacked it and put the front wheels on kitchen worksurface cut offs then chocked the rear wheels).
So, in conclusion, some annoyance but it could have been (a lot) worse.
Put the car on some decent ramps and you can easily drill and re-tap, I did it on daughters cross
Eh up benmac
I’d go with the advice on here and avoid powder coat and hammerite, stick with a stone chip or bed liner, dinitrol , that self heals to some degree if damaged.
I also filled all the open cavities on the reverse side of the sump guard where the cross braces meet with the top skin, including the seams of thoses stupid stamped squares at each end with sikoflex waterproof adhesive sealant, cannot remember the ref number.
Blast the whole lot then , mines a 16 plate and sump guard has held up well.
Replace all fixings with stainless steel including washers.
I’d go with the advice on here and avoid powder coat and hammerite, stick with a stone chip or bed liner, dinitrol , that self heals to some degree if damaged.
I also filled all the open cavities on the reverse side of the sump guard where the cross braces meet with the top skin, including the seams of thoses stupid stamped squares at each end with sikoflex waterproof adhesive sealant, cannot remember the ref number.
Blast the whole lot then , mines a 16 plate and sump guard has held up well.
Replace all fixings with stainless steel including washers.
WitleyPanda
Member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2016
- Messages
- 293
- Points
- 127
Why do you need to drop this to change the oil? I manage to change the oil easily with it in place. Access and dripping not an issue.There’s a British company that makes them for £150-200, the more expensive one has a removable plate to allow you to do oil changes without the need to drop the whole bash-plate
Steel sump guard for Fiat Panda 4x4
The sump guard is new and fits perfectly for all versions of Fiat Panda 4x4 manufactured between 2011 and 2025.www.sump-guard.co.uk
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2017
- Messages
- 939
- Points
- 303
Well the original makes for a bit of a mess... Although probably helps prevent corrosion
OP
OP
Well, to draw this one to a close. Sorted.
Got the front mounting brackets off easily and drilled out the stuck bolt in one of them. Derusted them and gave them some paint (found some black POR15 I forgot I had).
With the sheared bolts I ended up grinding the flange of the rivnuts into the chassis off and punching the remaining bits through, even managed to get them all out so no rattles. Popped new rivnuts in and gave the area a bit of paint. Covered the new sumpguard in stonechip paint then bolted it up with new stainless fixings and lashings of anti seize.
Just need to do the pollen filter then my list of "must do quickly" stuff will be sorted. Then it'll be onto the brakes and the current lack of any sort of spare or toolkit.
Got the front mounting brackets off easily and drilled out the stuck bolt in one of them. Derusted them and gave them some paint (found some black POR15 I forgot I had).
With the sheared bolts I ended up grinding the flange of the rivnuts into the chassis off and punching the remaining bits through, even managed to get them all out so no rattles. Popped new rivnuts in and gave the area a bit of paint. Covered the new sumpguard in stonechip paint then bolted it up with new stainless fixings and lashings of anti seize.
Just need to do the pollen filter then my list of "must do quickly" stuff will be sorted. Then it'll be onto the brakes and the current lack of any sort of spare or toolkit.
WitleyPanda
Member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2016
- Messages
- 293
- Points
- 127
So fuel tank guard next?
OP
OP
Ha! Maybe. Definitely brakes the next “big” job though. Will get the fronts done in the next few weeks as they’re easy then do the necessary research and make a decision on how best to do the rears.
