Technical 4x4 Rear brake discs

[WitleyPanda]

Thanks for bring this back.
#43 has the main points, but unclip the ABS and can leave the dampers on. Can be done off the jack but a couple more inches helps, wooden blocks under jack ( axle stands for safety. Hub bolts are E18 not as stated. No knee need if you use sockets hex for carrier frame. Ratcheted breaker bar make it simpler.

 

[Ash67]

Did my rear discs /pads on my 2014 4x4 twinair this weekend thanks to the tips on here! I would have given up without!
Had to saw through Hex 8 caliper carrier bolts on one side as they had been rounded off by someone in the past.
Here’s the part number for the bolts and washers as it may help someone else….
C0000046417117

 

[The Panda Nut]

Sometimes, it IS worth buying the tools to do the job. Maybe this is one such case as it allows you to work on the brakes in the future. Of course, you need to be able to source tools at a sensible price (not always a given) and have my attitude to collecting tools, but...

It's now I should mention the 'special' tools in my cycling tool box that were used for one bike and never since

Im glad Im not the only one. I cannot stop buying tools. Age and health have caught up very hard recently so I intend to try and control this trait in future!

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

I've just collected my 4x4 from The Fiat Workshop, Royston, who have done me a 48000 mile service, MOT (no issues) and changed the discs and pads at both ends of the car (replacing the original factory brakes that have lasted 46,000 miles, still with a bit to spare)

The invoice shows the workshop time for the rear pads and discs was 1 hour, and the cost of time and parts for that part of the job was £210. For that Im happy to pay them to do it rather than work off a jack and crawl round underneath. Hopefully good for another 45000 miles now

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

I've just collected my 4x4 from The Fiat Workshop, Royston, who have done me a 48000 mile service, MOT (no issues) and changed the discs and pads at both ends of the car (replacing the original factory brakes that have lasted 46,000 miles, still with a bit to spare)

The invoice shows the workshop time for the rear pads and discs was 1 hour, and the cost of time and parts for that part of the job was £210. For that Im happy to pay them to do it rather than work off a jack and crawl round underneath. Hopefully good for another 45000 miles now

Adding a bit more to this, I asked The Fiat Workshop how they did it... remove the hub nut was the answer. So, I guess they remove the four Torx screws from the back of the hub carrier and the hub nut from the front and remove the whole affair, with the calliper support still attached (a bit like as described here for a 500 rear wheel bearing, but not in the same sequence https://www.fiatworkshop.co.uk/Fiat_500_rear_wheel_bearing_removal.shtml - noting the careful extraction of the ABS wiring). As to the now rather old comments further back up this tread about difficulty of locating the bearing as a part on its own (without the hub carrier) interesting to note that the rear wheel bearing on the 4x4 is identical to the front wheel bearing from other models, and ready available for about £30 https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Product&ProdID=2416)

 

[TTR]

Adding a bit more to this, I asked The Fiat Workshop how they did it... remove the hub nut was the answer. So, I guess they remove the four Torx screws from the back of the hub carrier and the hub nut from the front and remove the whole affair, with the calliper support still attached (a bit like as described here for a 500 rear wheel bearing, but not in the same sequence https://www.fiatworkshop.co.uk/Fiat_500_rear_wheel_bearing_removal.shtml - noting the careful extraction of the ABS wiring). As to the now rather old comments further back up this tread about difficulty of locating the bearing as a part on its own (without the hub carrier) interesting to note that the rear wheel bearing on the 4x4 is identical to the front wheel bearing from other models, and ready available for about £30 https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Product&ProdID=2416)

Hertz,

Eh up - This is good to know - there a bu88er to get at might try this approach next time

 

[lambou1d]

Well, thanks to YellowCar and all the other advice, I managed to do one side today! I'd say 4 hrs to get it apart then 10 minutes to put all the new stuff together. Now I just have to do the other side tomorrow. Just found it very difficult to get the hub bolts out. Now that I know which length of socket extension I need to use, I reckon that will halve the time.
£41 for new discs and pads, incl. VAT and next day delivery!!!

 

[resurface]

I just did the job!

Startet out on left side and had to remove the four bolts pointing towards me to access the two unbraco that holds the calipper. From then on it was smooth sailing. But it took me 4.5 hrs on the first side. Holy crap - this should take 30 mins.

After removing the calipper I used a tool to open up the access for wasting the job next time.

Starting on the right side I tooled out the holes BEFORE opening the axle-bolts - this side took 30min

 

[WitleyPanda]

Time to do this again, so printed off posts #42 and #43, looked at my last post #61 ( November 2020) as the "collect the tools" check list. Amended notes to E18 socket and note to unclip ABS wire and disconnect bottom of shock absorber. Wind back piston clockwise Stripped fairly quickly one remember that need a couple of extra inches of lift. Mine is a 2012 and corrosion just starting to set in. So where can I get the E18 ( inverted Torx) bolts, The 8mm Hex (Unbrako) cap head bolts? both seem specials with the captive washers. The job is relatively easy so long as you can engage the heads, so knowing I am going to be less inclined to roll about on a mat in 2027/2028 might as well replace them? ( else wire brush heads, phosphoric acid pickle and some sort of coating?) A while back the shield fell off the LHS and the rivets/drive pins on the RHS on last legs. ( Aluminium?) Any source of suitable pins/rivets?

 

[WitleyPanda]

Did my rear discs /pads on my 2014 4x4 twinair this weekend thanks to the tips on here! I would have given up without!
Had to saw through Hex 8 caliper carrier bolts on one side as they had been rounded off by someone in the past.
Here’s the part number for the bolts and washers as it may help someone else….
C0000046417117

Where did you get the carrier bolts?

 

[WitleyPanda]

Has this been done on a panda as a modification? ( notes of it being done to an Abarth) then no need to remove the hub again. Drawing from For Renault Trafic MK3 2014-2022 10.9 grade bolts !!!

 

[The Panda Nut]

I think the issue here is related to the 4x4 system. I too have never really seen much wear on rear discs or pads on other cars. But the rear discs/pads of my Panda 4x4 seem to wear just as quickly as the fronts do. My previous 2005 model I replaced rear pads twice and discs once and it looks like the newer one (now at 30k miles) is going to be the same. I can't explain why this is though... normally brake limiting valves, rear load sensors etc mean the rear bakes do little work and so don't wear out that fast. But the 4x4 seems to use front and rear brakes in roughly equal amounts.

My theory is the brakebalance allows more rear braking simply due to the greater weight on the rear of the 4x4. They certianly stop very well so it figures the rears may be doing a little more work in general use. I had a Laguna which was disc all round. It was a well balaanced car and it ate tyres and brakes equally fast all round. Only a theory.

 

[EMCPanda]

Hi all,
I am mid way through changing rear disk rotors and pads on 2014 panda 4x4 Cross.
There is a simple solution.
I will post pictures tomorrow if it is not too wet.
Jack up car, remove road wheel.
Remove the slider pin bolts on caliper and lift it free.
Now because the caliper guide frame (8mm hex) bolts are obscured, we must renove the 4 star-head / torx bolts that hold the hub to the trailing arm.
I used a 14mm “wall drive” socket - it fits!
These are hard to reach so you need a long ratchet or breaker bar and short and long extensions - percevere!!
It is vital that the last one you undo is the lower rear as it is easiest to remove (i applied wd40 to all).
Once all of these awkward bolts are out, the hub will move freely.
There is a fair amount of wiggle room and wiggle you must.
Rotate the hub a bit until the first 8mm hex head is lined up with that odd cut-out in the back end of the training arm assembly. Stick hex wrench in and remove it. Now rotate hub and line up the other 8mm hex head with the cut-out and remove it. (I stuck a meaty screw driver into the guide frame to prevent it rotating and damaging cv boot as I undid the hex bolts.
Now the caliper guide frame is free.
Remove the pins from the disk (12mm ring spanner).
Tap the disk free from the hub.
Now build back up with new disk rotor, pads etc.
Take care to remove all rust scale under the spring clips and lubricate carefully with the correct lubricant to prevent pads sticking in the caliper as this will trash your disk again.
Use threadlock where needed.
I hope this is useful!
No need to remove driveshaft, hub bearing, or hub nut. Integrity of hub bearing is not affected.
Do the dealers know about this?

Thank you very much! This worked and saved from potentially taking too much apart.