Technical 2011 Ducato 2.3 cambelt. D-I-Y doable or not ?

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Technical 2011 Ducato 2.3 cambelt. D-I-Y doable or not ?

andytw

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Hi,

My 2011 motorhome is based on a 2.3 Ducato. As it is now 5 years old it is due for a cambelt replacement. I am capable of most things, have elearn, and did the cambelt on my previous 1998 Peugeout based MH.
I am just a bit daunted by the newness of this vehicle to me.

I had a quote from a reliable garage that I use and that included the waterpump. Don't have an issue taking this up but feel I could save myself a few bob.

Just asking if the belt swap is considered a DIY job and would one normally expect to do the water pump.

Time is not an issue, it can be spread over a couple of days.

andytw
 
I presume that it is fairly low mileage? If so I would suggest you leave the water pump alone. I know Fiat recommend that it is changed but most belts are done on the distance criteria of 180,000 kilometers.
I get mine done by a Fiat professional agent who works primarily on motorhomes. They do not automatically change the water pump as part of the belt replacement and quote a time of 2.5 hours to complete the belt change including new tensioners.
There are a couple of [Italian] videos on youtube showing the process. I think you need to work below the vehicle for a lot of the time so a ramp or pit makes it easier.
 
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OK, many thanks for that. Yes it is low mileage, probably about 18k or so now.
It will be jacked up and put on axle stands or possibly driven up the motorhome ramps. I am erring on the side of doing it.

I think leaving the pump alone is a good idea as it is not related (I presume) to the cambelt and is just done as a convenience. i.e. It's not as though leaving it alone will cause premature failure of the cambelt.

andy
 
I think leaving the pump alone is a good idea as it is not related (I presume) to the cambelt and is just done as a convenience. i.e. It's not as though leaving it alone will cause premature failure of the cambelt.

andy

The pump is directly driven by the cambelt.
 
If you have no problem with buying the special tools, removing the front of your Ducato and are inventive enough to cope with bolts that refuse to turn, then you could say it is a diy job.

I myself can successfully replace wheel bearings, brake discs and even align the geometry with a laser and some makeshift tools. But for replacing the timing belt I went to a dealer who - as it turned out - needed 2 whole days to do the job. That included drilling out bolts from which the heads snapped off after ample use of WD40, heat and cold.
The list of parts and the bill were impressive, but I'm glad I didn't do it myself.
 
OK, many thanks for that. Yes it is low mileage, probably about 18k or so now.
It will be jacked up and put on axle stands or possibly driven up the motorhome ramps. I am erring on the side of doing it.

I think leaving the pump alone is a good idea as it is not related (I presume) to the cambelt and is just done as a convenience. i.e. It's not as though leaving it alone will cause premature failure of the cambelt.

andy
if you have only done 18000 miles why the need to do timing belt its good for at least another 60000 miles as normally changed at 70 to 80 thousand miles or am i missing something here.
 
if you have only done 18000 miles why the need to do timing belt its good for at least another 60000 miles as normally changed at 70 to 80 thousand miles or am i missing something here.

'Cos they are changed on mileage or age. e.g. 80,000 miles or 5 years.
In my case the latter.

Realistically it may well go on and on but then again it might not.

Andy
 
Anecdotal:
One of the wrong choices I made during my life was to buy a Vauxhall (Opel) Frontera.
The factory reduced the timing belt mileage advice twice while maintaining the 5 year limit.
I had less than 50% of the mileage but exceeded the limit by 2 years when the belt snapped and valves collided with the pistons. Replaced the complete head and traded the car for a new Kia Sorento 2.5crdi that has a well oiled chain instead of a belt.
 
Cambelts are rubber, they perish, do not leave it to snap.
If you have never done a cambelt replacement before then it is not a DIY job. If you get it wrong it will cause a lot of internal engine damage.
 
whilst i agree with all points made one equation that has to be factored in and almost impossible to answer is how long did your new vehicle stand in a field or old airdrome before it went to the habitation fitters to have body fitted and then how long before it went to dealers and so on. quite simply your new vehicle could be 2 years old by the time you get it. just a thought !!!!!!
 
I have a 2007 2.3 Ducato, I had cambelt changed at 5yrs old 18000 miles, did not change water pump and it has been fine now having done 42000 miles, belt will be due for changing again next year and will also change water pump this time.

Eric
 
why do the water pump i got 705000kms when i spun a big end bearing didnt touch the pump the whole way through ive used cat coolant as well contrary to fiats advice as well about a third the price here in australia
 
When you change the belt it comes with new pulleys, the water pump is also one of the pulleys and should be changed for total peace of mind. I've got my 2.3 engine in bits and the whole journey has been an absolute nightmare, I've worked on loads of engines over the years and this is the only one with bolts that prefer to snap than come out clean. The cheapest replacement engine I've found online is £1,800 and that's used and not re-conditioned, so anyone thinking of 'saving a few bob', do yourself a favour and leave it to the pro's
 
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When you change the belt it comes with new pulleys, the water pump is also one of the pulleys and should be changed for total peace of mind. I've got my 2.3 engine in bits and the whole journey has been an absolute nightmare, I've worked on loads of engines over the years and this is the only one with bolts that prefer to snap than come out clean. The cheapest replacement engine I've found online is £1,800 and that's used and not re-conditioned, so anyone thinking of 'saving a few bob', do yourself a favour and leave it to the pro's

Other people have been able to swap all the bits from the 06-10 HPI/Multijet engine onto the block and head from a 02-06 JTD engine, think it was just the turbo oil feed was relocated. Not sure if anything else was changed in 11 on model but definitely worth a look as those engines or even a complete can are far cheaper.
 
That's handy to know but now the engine is stripped it's clear that it's in good shape and perfectly salvageable. It's only done about 120,000 miles, but as its in bits I'm gonna have the crankshaft ground to the next bearing shell size, the head checked and the valves re-seated and new piston rings fitted, hopefully she'll run like new but I think I'll be moving her on. North East Engine Services in Darlington will be doing the work so anyone looking for a cheap 57 reg x250 Maxi watch this space.
 
UPDATE

All feedback was appreciated and considered. In the end the con's won against the pro's and I took it into the workshop early yesterday morning. This is a workshop that I have used for a long time, do trust, and will use again.
Anyway...
Yesterday afternoon they were "still working on it". I called by late this morning and it was going back together. Difficult to move bolts was one issue, but they did get them all out complete and with no breakages. I did opt to have the water pump changed and it is quite a large chunk of alloy with the pump as just a part of it. This large piece of alloy also has a 50mm, or so, mounting hole for the fuel injection pump. This should be a push fit requiring just a tap to remove it, not so mine. The workshop had to modify a gear puller to pull it out and even then it required a lot of force.

All done and I am now convinced it would have been a bad idea for me to have done my own.

andytw
 
Apoligies if this isn't QUITE the right thread..,

a friend has recently acquired a 2003 2.3Mjet engined Iveco,

has come to do the cam-belt, but is unsure about the assembly / structure of the lower pulley ( crankshaft),
it has 4 x bolts on the outer PCD , and a BIG one on the end of the crank,

what / how is used to remove this pulley .. to change the belt ( there seems to be a locking hole on this and the top pulley ( 8 Valve))

I've got access to ePER and a few snippets of info.. but any pointers would be great,
found THIS; https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/439857-i-can-t-remove-crankshaft-pulley-2-3-mtj.html

but not too sure it's strictly relevant..??

thanks Charlie
 
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Apoligies if this isn't QUITE the right thread..,

a friend has recently acquired a 2003 2.3Mjet engined Iveco,

has come to do the cam-belt, but is unsure about the assembly / structure of the lower pulley ( crankshaft),
it has 4 x bolts on the outer PCD , and a BIG one on the end of the crank,

what / how is used to remove this pulley .. to change the belt ( there seems to be a locking hole on this and the top pulley ( 8 Valve))

I've got access to ePER and a few snippets of info.. but any pointers would be great,
found THIS; https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/439857-i-can-t-remove-crankshaft-pulley-2-3-mtj.html

but not too sure it's strictly relevant..??

thanks Charlie


for info -:)

the big crank pulley came off after HOURS of attention / soaking / heat

it needed to be removed to get the "1 piece" timing cover off..:(

turns out it was 16Valve, :eek:
there is only 1 visible pulley, the 2nd cam is driven internally

apparently another common issue is a dry UJ on the steering column - making VERY odd steering,
once remedied it drives o.k.(y)
 
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