Technical 2009 1.1 non starter

[Scotchgitt]

Going back to this

Normal its over 300

We are 50% down, probably means we have good compression

If you have another panda, swap the batteries or try jump leads


If the cars been running a tooth out, you will probably have to reset the adaptive memory using a scantool


You have got the valve cover back on and the cam sensor connected

yeh ive dug out the compression tester

Can you reset the adaptive memory using MES when the engine doesnt atart

Yeh ive put the crank aux pulley back on and the cam cover each time

 

[koalar]

Yes

No idea how it's been years since I used MES

Called

Self-adaptation Reset

Under Adjustments

Phonics relearn is also there

You don't normally have to touch them on the panda

But if the car was running but wrong, then you correct the fault, it will still being using the wrong parameters and timings

With everything reset to factory it will take a second or two to long to start the first time

You can't do a phonics relearn until the cars running, and up to temperature

 

[Keepthe12alive]

It only minor interference

Never known any damage to occur

Probably need a bit of carbon build up and the con rods to expand a bit at high rpm needed

My 1.2 2010 Evo 2 has no timing marks, I just use the two locking tools

You can't quite fit the belt with everything locked

View attachment 446167

With everything locked up, wedge a rag in the bottom to hold the belt on the bottom pulley, pull the belt up tight as you can on the left side, and mark the two, top right of the above picture


Remove the cam locking tool

On rotate the cam clockwise one tooth.and put the belt on

View attachment 446166

Not a great photo but you can see the belt is now one tooth out, top right of the photo

Saves having to undo the big bolt in the middle

Now when you rotate the engine two turns the tools should line up

Just to make sure I understand:

-At first, the engine was a tooth out
-then marked the cam sprocket and belt as is
-then belt remove
-then trick with rag, then move cam clockwise 1 tooth, then belt back on

And bc we can see the belt and cam sprocket marks are now 1 tooth off, we know we’ve corrected the timing discrepancy?

And then if we rotate crank twice the TDC tools should lock in?

This means we don’t have to bother with loosening anything around the cam sprocket?

Did I get this procedure right?

Last Q:
How are you able to slip the belt back on without slacking the cam sprocket? Is it just the TDC tools that make it difficult?

 

[koalar]

Just to make sure I understand:

-At first, the engine was a tooth out
-then marked the cam sprocket and belt as is
-then belt remove
-then trick with rag, then move cam clockwise 1 tooth, then belt back on

And bc we can see the belt and cam sprocket marks are now 1 tooth off, we know we’ve corrected the timing discrepancy?

And then if we rotate crank twice the TDC tools should lock in?

This means we don’t have to bother with loosening anything around the cam sprocket?

Did I get this procedure right?

Last Q:
How are you able to slip the belt back on without slacking the cam sprocket? Is it just the TDC tools that make it difficult?

Yes

Everything locked up

If you jam a rag at the bottom to hold the belt in place on crankshaft sprocket

Now lift the belt upto the camshaft sprocket and mark the two, you don't put the belt full on at this point

The belt at this point in time is loose on the right-hand side

Now remove the camshaft locking tool,, rotate the camshaft one tooth clockwise, located the belt and turn the camshaft back, the right side is now drum tight and the tensioner on the left will just fit,


Yes

When the belt is slack on the right side there isn't enough movement to fit the belt,

 

[Scotchgitt]

Finally got time to spend on the wee panda,

note to self

Do a compressions test early on in the diagnostics process

Now stripping for parts

Thanks for the help

 

[martin kane]

Just pulled thermostat, no movement whatsoever, going to collect a new one today, when filling coolant do I leave the cap off with the engine running

 

[A3jeroen]

That's what I usually do. Heater on hot (should theorittically not be necessary) and carnose high.

gr J