Engine_Bay9.JPG

Panda (Classic) 1989 Fiat Panda 1000S New Zealand

Introduction

Hi all,

Got told to up load my pics to here,

So here we go.

Got this last weekend as a fuel saver run about car.

Bought it because my first car was a Fiat Uno 60s, I wanted another but none were available then I saw this!

Far_away.JPG


Left_rear.JPG


Rear29.JPG


Front_bonnet_up.JPG


Engine_Bay9.JPG


Interior needs a tidy up, (well new drivers seat at least!)
Inside_rip.JPG


Paint code for those that may want to know...

Paint_Code.JPG
Not really much of an update as they still aren't finished yet.



Door card test fit.



And with stuff.




Ok question, I live in New Zealand. I would like a full set of bilstein shocks. I have found various places online, but a lot don't ship internationally.

Any recommendations?

:) or even other shock brands you have found to be equal or better than bilstein.

Cheers!

Isaac
 
Finally got one door card done.

Drivers side.



Will do the other tonight.

And here's something for the lols

Fiat Uno Personal Body kit front test fit. (Made in Austria)



side on.



Looks like theres way too much going on in my opinion. So rather than cutting it up to make it fit I'm going to sell it.
 
Does look a bit lumpy on the front -how would it look on the back bumper with reversing and fog light fitted? Fizzle needs something on the back to get rid of that arse in the air look.

I'm not sure how well it will fit on the back. If I get anytime tonight will have a quick look. But it is always dark by the time I get home. It sucks!'
 
Nice work on the door panel. (y)

Just curious about whether your speaker mounting is finished as they don't usually sound very good if the sound can come out of the back and front?
 
So some updates

I bought these bilsteins ,

http://www.ebay.it/itm/121024167399...sid=p3984.m1423.l2649&clk_rvr_id=512107580742

Fitted them when they arrived.

As you can see the old is wasted!



old and new.



old and new / rear



product code if your interested.



Then I also dealt with some rust.

First time bogging.



and



painted.




Then finally took it for a WOF or a MOT as you UK people like to call it.

I failed on my lower ball joints and my lower control arms as the bushes were worn.

I also had a hole in my muffler and needed a mount for the exhaust down the middle.

I also needed a rear gearbox / engine mount. Oh and the rear break drums replacing.

So I supplied them with the goods to fit as I didn't have time.

Then today they tell me it's all done for $1000NZD thats 509british pounds.

I couldn't believe it could cost that much in labour. They also for some reason told me they had to replace some of the gearbox oil.

How has that got to do with replacing those parts? they must have broken something and passed the cost on to me.

Anyway I managed to bring the price down to $800NZD which is still absurd for the crappy job they did.

Any thoughts?

:S

Not happy.
 
check and see what temperature the fan kicks in at, it should be about 100.c if not your thermal switch on the radiator could be at fault.

another thing to try is stick the heating and fans on full. if that brings the temp down it sounds like it could be low flow around the cooling system. could be caused by a worn water pump.

the things to check would be if the radiator is clogged up with muck.. and check the thermostat.
 
well my fan kicks in just under the next line along from 90, so i guess that is just under 100.. what ever, i never see it well over in the red.
Yeah mine cuts in at what I'd say is about 98 on the gauge but then again my gauge appears to read about 5 degrees over the actual temperature. On a normal blast in the current weather it runs at about 80 on the gauge.
 
check and see what temperature the fan kicks in at, it should be about 100.c if not your thermal switch on the radiator could be at fault.

another thing to try is stick the heating and fans on full. if that brings the temp down it sounds like it could be low flow around the cooling system. could be caused by a worn water pump.

the things to check would be if the radiator is clogged up with muck.. and check the thermostat.


This morning I turned my heater fan on full but it didn't make a difference. It also only blows air not hot air... not sure if that has something to do with it.

I will see if I can get someone to look at it. Have a long trip to do this weekend. Probably be best to take the other car which is super slammed. :S

Thanks for your ideas guys!

The best!
 
This morning I turned my heater fan on full but it didn't make a difference. It also only blows air not hot air... not sure if that has something to do with it.

I will see if I can get someone to look at it. Have a long trip to do this weekend. Probably be best to take the other car which is super slammed. :S

Thanks for your ideas guys!

The best!

Have you checked the coolant level in the radiator?
 
yeah haha, If I ever fill it up to max it always leaks somewhere.. until it gets to min level then it doesn't leak anymore. So lately I've been toping it up to half way before I drive.

You've no heat as you're coolant is too low to supply hot coolant to the heater matrix by the sounds of it.

You need to find where its leaking to, will be worth checking the valve on the side of the heater matrix by the battery from experience (y)
 
It may, just may be the same problem I have had with mine - an earth issue making the temperature gauge lie to you. Let your car run for a couple of mins and turn switches on and off like the headlights, heaters, wipers etc.

Mine temp gauge used to show in the red all the time when I had lights on dipped beam and flick up and down with the indicators. It turned out to be the alternator brushes that had failed.
 
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