Panda (Classic) 1989 Fiat Panda 1000S New Zealand

[AndyPanda4x4]

I've not seen any go here before from the ones I've taken apart/renovated. Did your car come from Japan originally clowndog? I wonder if it's just simply a lacking of underseal from that initial factory build back in 1989 that could cause the rust in certain areas like this.

 

[kolza]

I thought the rattling had disappeared, but alas it's still there.

Very noticeable on any bumps in the road. Sounds like it's coming from left and right. Anyone know what it could be?

You can hit the front tire with your hand and hear a rattle...

This worries me..

Any ideas welcome.

Just noticed your previous question re rattle...


Had similar for last few weeks, knocks at low speed, during acceleration and braking, I was suspecting LH front shock as there was some play noticed on last MOT between top of the tube and rod.


The knocking was caused by some play between tie-rod and lower track arm, looks like tie-rod hole is worn a bit allowing for play, tightening the bolt helped for now.

 

[clowndog]

I've not seen any go here before from the ones I've taken apart/renovated. Did your car come from Japan originally clowndog? I wonder if it's just simply a lacking of underseal from that initial factory build back in 1989 that could cause the rust in certain areas like this.

I think this was a New Zealand new model... It does have the black under seal under the whole car. I just think it's some how got moisture over the years and it has done a lot of kms!

 

[clowndog]

I started taking it apart last night. I've undone all the bolts and its ready to come out.


Any tips for removing the steering shaft? It looks like I might need to take it out the whole lot. (Can't just detach it. )



Random pic of all my projects.

 

[clowndog]

Got it out. I was just being lazy and trying to skip steps.

Used a wire brush. From this

To


Then got out the flap disk.



It really reveals how many cracks there were.

I think I'll just try weld up the cracks. Then weld a plate over top to help reinforce it.

Let's see how I go.

 

[clowndog]

Welded one side. Reckon I should do this side too?



Then maybe weld a plate on top to reinforce it?

 

[kolza]

Welded one side. Reckon I should do this side too?



Then maybe weld a plate on top to reinforce it?

I would go for plate on the inside only, 3mm thick with nice cut outs for clutch cable steering rack etc.
Spot weld the plate every inch on whole surface (like a grid). Maybe 1/2 inch long seem every 1/2inch on the circumference.


Metal penetration seems to be present, so welding extra set of seems on the other side might by pita as you will spend ages grounding them flat to put the reinforcement plate on. Heat from grinding can weaken the metal adjacent to the weld lines.

 

[clowndog]

Ok update.

Plate now fitted and welded and painted.






I put most things back together last night. But when I went to start the car. It started fine. But I couldn't stop /turn it off.

I think I put this ignition module in wrong. Any tips on which way it should face?


And where should the key be turned to when fitting it?

 

[clowndog]

Got it all together for a drive. The pedals feel very firm in a good way. Was a bit more fun to drive.

But I did notice that maybe my fuel pump is making a racket. Well I think it's that. It's only noisy at idle. If you Rev a little it shuts up.

Another thing to note is if I change the electrical current. Ie put the hazards on the noise starts.

I'll upload a video in the next post. Have a listen. Let me know what you think it is.

 

[clowndog]

Here is the video. Can anyone tell me what it is?

http://vid1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff431/clown_dog/IMG_4734_zps0b1bwroi.mp4

 

[kolza]

Here is the video. Can anyone tell me what it is?

http://vid1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff431/clown_dog/IMG_4734_zps0b1bwroi.mp4

Haven't seen the video, but the description suggest alternator bearings.
Try to tight up the alt belt a bit.

 

[Dragon Man]

sounds like something is rubbing... check that the little plastic splash guard is not contacting the belt or pulleys

 

[clowndog]

I will. But the sound is coming from the back of the car. Hence why I thought fuel pump.

 

[clowndog]

Whoop next issue. It'll be grounding. So when I use my wiper blade everything on my dash board Max's out. Like temp and fuel.

So question is. Does anyone know which colour wire my wiper blades run on?



Or this.

Thanks again.

 

[clowndog]

Ok fixed it. Just the hedgehog grounding issue as is common. Cleaned up the terminals. And re wrapped the wires just in case.

 

[kolza]

Try the hedgehogs ( ground points) first.


Sounds like during the pedal box removal you might by accident "damaged" some ground connections.


Remove all 6.3mm female blades, clean the hedgehog, inspect all wire to blade crimp points and wires, - renew if necessary. You may need to cut up to 50mm to get to fresh copper. Apply new grease, job done.

if still no joy, please refer to wiring diagrams

 

[clowndog]

Yeah bro,

That was it. I updated the thread when I found it. What kind of grease do you use? Mine has no grease on it. Never has.

 

[kolza]

I'm using the Tutela MR3 selenia/Fiat grease, it is lithium soap base. Really thick greas and can stand pretty high temps and is resistant to wash out or run down.

I've bought a 0.8kg tin on car-boot sale few years back for a £1.

 

[clowndog]

Just picked up this bad boy.

Valeo clutch kit.



Next question is where's the best place to get a 20 spline clutch alignment tool.



Any tips for the clutch swap? The guy at the shop said I have to bring the flywheel to him to get it machined before putting it back in. Is that usual?

Cheers.

 

[kolza]

Long reach 14 or 17mm socket with a bit of insulation tape worked fine for me few time, or do the superglue trick.


Inspect the flywheel for cracks or really rough surface - if noting like that and no leak at crank seal just clean it with brake/clutch cleaner/degreaser and fit the new clutch. It will bed-in within few first setoffs .