I was never a fan of grease during engine rebuilds apart from in the old days we used it to hold gaskets in place before people went for sealant and 100% dry engines.Is the oil filter paper blocked with grease causing problems?
Cranking on starter with oil filter unscrewed so the oil filter rubber seal is not touching the oil filter face should make it easier for pump to prime. When oil is pumped out tighten oil filter.
I have to resort to Iveco for an overall lubrication diagram. I think that the principal differences will be in the orientation of the filter and oil cooler.The score makes in the aluminium housing in first photo don't look good, how do they and the measurements @Communicator posted compare.
Sorry I don't know which is oil feed from pick up tube.
Trust not too much air blown may damage O rings in housings.
You can see why I prefer the RWD Iveco Daily's with those engines as much easier access to ancilaries.![]()
There wasnt anything there to begin with so ive just assumed it didn't need anything... A little grease may have squeezed out. Doesn't look like theres a gasket in my engine rebuild kit eitherHow are you sealing the halves of the pump?
There wasnt anything there to begin with so ive just assumed it didn't need anything... A little grease may have squeezed out. Doesn't look like theres a gasket in my engine rebuild kit either
I am guessing it was just a "face fit" with perfect tolerances on the two mating surfaces for the reasons you mentioned.A traditional gasket would not work because it would introduce too much end clearance between the gears and end plates.
A rebuild manual should be consulted to see if a specific type of sealant should be used , in what quantity and exactly where.
I agree. Looking at the grooves from wear and possibly from the dry run it had im wondering if it's sealing properly ar the gears. Being in mainland Europe i cant find a midplate which is a pain. Im really trying to avoid pulling the aux unit. Im pretty sure id have to drop the engine out which in the case of this vehicle involves pulling the trans as well as pivoting out both lower control arms as the front bodywork is molded and permanently fitted fiberglass. It is a giant pain to work on. All i need is ook pressure then i can button this thing up and send it on its wayI am guessing it was just a "face fit" with perfect tolerances on the two mating surfaces for the reasons you mentioned.
May be worth trying rubbing end plate on a piece of plate glass with some fine grinding paste.I agree. Looking at the grooves from wear and possibly from the dry run it had im wondering if it's sealing properly ar the gears. Being in mainland Europe i cant find a midplate which is a pain. Im really trying to avoid pulling the aux unit. Im pretty sure id have to drop the engine out which in the case of this vehicle involves pulling the trans as well as pivoting out both lower control arms as the front bodywork is molded and permanently fitted fiberglass. It is a giant pain to work on. All i need is ook pressure then i can button this thing up and send it on its way
Im going to a machine shop on Monday with it. engine rebuilder. Perhaps he can take a few thousands of it and clean it up and have that do the trick. Fingers crossed. The scoring is visible, it's not so bad that it will catch your nail going over it but still. If push comes to shove the aux pump will come off. All seals will be replaced a second time etc etc. Perhaps replace the aux pump of i can find a good used one here on the mainland. Shipping from the uk has been appealing these last years. Parts from the US arrive quickerMay be worth trying rubbing end plate on a piece of plate glass with some fine grinding paste.
Assuming gears are in acceptable condition.![]()
I am guessing it was just a "face fit" with perfect tolerances on the two mating surfaces for the reasons you mentioned.