Technical 11 reg 500 is not starting

[Fiyat]

I bought 11 reg 500 3 days ago for my daughter. It was working fine until this morning. It is not starting now. I have tried jump start. No luck. I have checked the battery voltage. It is was 12.65. When I turn the ignition, it does not do basic clicking sound for the dead battery. It sounds more like metal to metal rubbing sounds. I have suspicion that it might be starter motor noise. In theory, if I can do the bump start does it mean issue is the starter motor?
Am I able to upload video here so experts can watch?

 

[Fiyat]

Does this video give any idea for the cause of no starting?

 

[Mike1alike]

12.65 V at rest doesn’t rule the battery out. That just means it’s charged, not that it can supply current.
What you’re seeing is typical when voltage collapses under load. The starter tries to engage, voltage drops, everything resets, and it repeats.
Either the battery is weak under load or there’s high resistance in the main cables/grounds (very common on these). Check wires connected to starter motor, carefully because there is voltage and you don't want to make any dhortcut. So disconnect the ground cable on battery terminal first, then see about starter cables. If they stay fit, firmly connected and no oxidation on connectors.
That’s classic low-voltage behaviour. The starter solenoid is engaging (clicking), but as soon as the starter tries to draw current, the voltage drops and everything resets, hence the repeated clicking.
Most common causes are a weak battery or poor main connections (battery terminals, starter motor connections or engine ground).
Can you test the battery's state of charge? Or do you have any known-good battery to put it on and try with that?

 

[Fiyat]

Thanks Mike1alike.
I don't have my car with me right now. It has compatible battery. I will need to use my wife's car to charge the battery while engine is running - maybe half an hour. Do you think that might work?

 

[Mike1alike]

I will need to use my wife's car to charge the battery while engine is running - maybe half an hour. Do you think that might work?

That doesn't, really. It may give the battery a little 'juice', but can't charge it like that really.
You need a dedicated charger if battery is discharged. There are plenty cheep ones and some of them are quite good. I have this one Foxsur 12V 8A - 24V 4A (12301R) and I recommend it. I'm pleased with it, it does the job.
You need to find out exactly what's wrong with the car in order to fix it. Try the battery from your wife's car and see if that works, if engine starts.
You say you bought the car 3 days ago so dead battery (although 12.65 V says not) is possible. Maybe was put on charge before sell.
After engine starts you'll need to test the charging system, check battery voltage while engine is running.

 

[Fiyat]

I have managed to run the engine after 15 mins connection.
I will run the car again another 15 mins.
I will stop the engine & try to start the engine another half an hour later and then I will check the voltage. What voltage should it be while engine is running?
Thanks for the advise. I think I will invest on something like Foxsur, considering we have 2 old cars at home.

 

[Mike1alike]

Well... chances are yours has a smart alternator not classic fixed one.
How to tell if it’s a smart alternator
Look at the connector on the alternator:
Smart (ECU-controlled / LIN type) has main thick B+ cable + a small plug with 1 thin wire (sometimes 2).
That thin wire is LIN / control signal from ECU.
No traditional “charge warning lamp” wire.
Older / regular alternator has B+ cable and separate excitation wire (D+).
Works more independently. Fixed regulation (~14V).
Quick visual rule:
1 small thin wire in a plug → smart alternator
multiple wires / classic D+ → older type.
On most 2011 500s: you’ll see the single thin control wire → smart system.
What voltage should you see?
This is where people get confused sometimes.
On a smart alternator voltage is NOT fixed.
You can see:
12.4 – 12.8 V
→ light load / battery charged / ECU reducing drag
13.2 – 13.8 V
→ normal cruising
14.2 – 14.8 V
→ charging / recovery / high demand.
All of these can be completely normal
On a regular alternator (for comparison)
Usually steady: 13.8 – 14.5 V.
️ What matters more than the number
Instead of “exact voltage”, look for:
✔ Does it increase with load?
Turn on: headlights, blower, heated rear window.
Voltage should rise if system is working.
✔ Does it recover after start?
After cranking should go higher (~14V+) briefly.
Warning signs:
Stays at ~12V all the time → no charging
Drops under load and doesn’t recover
Erratic spikes (wiring / control issue).

 

[Fiyat]

Very good explanation. Thanks.
It has reached 14.10 while running the engine.
I will use some clips to check the voltage while running few things gradually, like radio, headlights, usb charging point etc.
I think my battery is on the borderline of OK. Not sure why it has run out overnight. If it runs out again I will need to check Blue&Me impact.

 

[Mike1alike]

I think my battery is on the borderline of OK. Not sure why it has run out overnight. If it runs out again I will need to check Blue&Me impact.

Do check Blue&Me, that does cause problems sometimes. Overnight it's usually a dying battery and cold temperature makes that more visible.
What's a bit confusing is the 12.65 V you mentioned. When was that? Engine not running I guess, but how long after engine was running there?

 

[Fiyat]

12.65 was just before I posted this thread. Car was used last time yesterday evening. This morning engine decided to strike. It was not used until wife's car arrived. Confusing thing for me was that even jump start has failed in the day until both car was connected about 15 min.

 

[John202020]

New battery, does Blu and me work? if fitted

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[GettinBetter]

... Maybe was put on charge before sell....

More than likely.

Quick visual rule:
1 small thin wire in a plug → smart alternator
multiple wires / classic D+ → older type.
On most 2011 500s: you’ll see the single thin control wire → smart system.

Good description.
Although, the Classic D+ can have a single wire on the alternator, but usually it'll be held on with a nut.
I would add to that, the presense of a small plug on the negative battery terminal, with two wires would indicate an intelligent alternator.

... What you’re seeing is typical when voltage collapses under load....

Very common with a battery in a low state of charge or a bad earth.