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Technical Bootlight and Powerconnector don't work

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Technical Bootlight and Powerconnector don't work

MKoers

MKoers

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I read some threads and also posted in some but I got more issues then thos threads cover so I start a new one.

Recently I discovered that the GP does have a boot light.
I never saw it and actualy never thought abouth it eihter.
But now I know it's there it must work.
I also spotted the power connector with the max 180Watt text on it.
I though of checking it with a phone charger.
There's an LED on that but it won't come on.

So I got now power on the power connector and the bootlight.

I checked the buld, this is fine and works.
I checked the fusebox in the rear and they are all ok.
I found out that the fuse for the power connector was 15 amps instead of 20 amps according to the manual so I swapped it.
Still no power...

I also checked the fusebox on the dashboard.
The fuses here are also fine. All the orther interiour lights work and they are on the same fuse according to the manual.

What could be causing these two problems?
I'm out of ideas.
 
I found out my rear fuse box wasn't connected to the battery at all, there's a connector block to the left of the front passenger seat on the floor behind the thin piece of trim, it wasn't connected to anything. So, while I was wiring my rear sub which needed a supply I just wired a new cable to that connector block from the battery and I had power at the fuse box. Maybe your boot fuse box isn't connected at all to the battery? Btw I didn't have power on my rear boot socket, but now I do. Plus I also have the boot light on now.
 
Well that's pretty stupid of fiat if that's the case.
But way do my parking sensors do work?

I checked the pictures.
So there is a plug there that might not be connected.
I hope the other end of the plug is also there?

I ripped the piece of plastic out and could not find a connector that's loose so I put everything back in.
Somehow the plastic strip does not go go down far enough to make it absolutly flat, have to take a look with daylight.
After that I though of the stupid fact that I tried the power connector without ignition on on.
So I put the key it and turned it.
The checked and voila I got power.

So now the last issue is the bootlight...
 
Last edited:
After some searching I went in to have a look at the bootlock.
It does not look corroded or anything.
But how to get the connector out?
I moved the little plastic strip/pin to the side and wiggled it but no movement.
 
A whole fuse box that they haven't bothered to provide a supply to!!!!! Only the Italians could do that.

I'm guessing the parking sensors are supplied from the reversing light hence they work.
 
To take a better look I removed the entire lock.
On the outside it seems fine, but...

once I removed the connector it was corroded.
Not just the lock also the connector.
I guess I can clean it up, I tried it fast as I did it during my lunch time.
That did not help.
Is there a way to trigger the light by connecting pins of the connector?
Just to test if it's realy the lock.
 
that corrosion could very well be your issue then....


how many wires are there to the lock? From memory its three but not 100%

thinking ground, live pulse for solonoid (lock open and signal wire for boot light / warning if you have a test lamp it should be easy to find live and earth

give the plug and catch socket a good clean up with contact cleaner and a small screw driver to scratch them clean

see if it works if it does pack the socket with silicone grease prior to re assembly


edit it does look like three wires

6155648962_1552cabd35_z.jpg
 
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was wrong above but.......

A quick look on eper shows the gp boot lock wiring as follows



Boot lock wiring.JPG

Closest to little catch is pin 1

pin 1 = boot light

pin 2 = body computer (PIN 42)

Pin 3 = Ground

Pin 4 = body computer (PIN 30)

The boot opening switch located in lock sends an earth signal with the boot open and turns on courtesy light

A signal is sent to the Body Computer - pin 42 . this is an NC signal: signal present indicates boot closed, signal absent indicates boot open;

Pin 30 is the unlock pulse from the Body computer



Hope that helps (y)
 
Last edited:
Well I took the lock out and when I disconnected it the dash warned that the boot was open.
No bootlight though?
Also no voltage on their.
I plugged the connector back in and messured for voltage but everything is pretty much dead.
I guess I'll just have to replace the lock and see from there.
Is 20 pounds around the cheapest or are there cheaper ones?
 
Andy Monty said:
try using a test meter between pin 1 and the bulb holder in the boot to see if there is a connection (continuity test)
Click to expand...

Well got on it again and tested this.
Between pin 1 and one of the bulb contacts their is a circuit, no voltage.

Also I tested some more with the pins, and ping 2 gives a pulse not a constant signal.
I guess that's normal as it comming from the ECU.

But I could not get the light to work without the lock connected.
With the lock connected stil no light.

Corrosion is removed from the pins and not shortage anymore.
 
Now that the op has sorted it I'm going to hijack the thread a bit. I have a fully functional boot light in my 07 t-jet but no power socket (just a cut out for one next to the light), is this normal?
 
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