Today's high stress job was to winkle the washing machine out from under the work surface where it's lived for something like the last 15 years. It's done us well having seen out the last years my youngest boy still lived with us and then best part of a couple of years when they moved back in with us while their new house got sorted out - lots of clothing for their then baby boy and 5 year old daughter. It's been making some very strange noises of late and the drain pump is very noisy. I think the drum shocks have broken away as it thrashes it's drum against the casing when attempting to spin. Anyway, Mrs J decided to get a new one and, although I've mended washing machines in the past, my experience is that you don't get that much longer out of them before another bit breaks so I didn't argue.
New machine delivery promised for late morning/afternoon today so can't put off disconnecting the old machine any longer but "bricking it" over the worry I might flood the joint when I disconnect the water. It's on a spur from the mains inlet and our water pressure is very good, if I got it wrong we'd be up to our knees in no time at all.
There's one of those wee quarter turn taps on the connection to the supply hose so it should be simply a matter of turning this off but I thought the same when we did my older boy's machine. The tap turned but when I took the hose connector off a fine spray of water - bit like a wee power washer - came out of the connection. Later discovered the ball was corroded and allowing water to get round it. - it was a nasty cheap fitting. I've learned my lesson with plumbing fittings many years ago and don't use the "cheap and cheerful" option any more.
So, you can imagine, I was feeling nervous. Decided to clear access to the rising main stopcock "just in case" it's under the kitchen sink and a bit "silly" to get at as you have to empty all the stuff my dear Mrs seems to think we need to keep under the sink, then remove the shelf and a couple of securing dowels which then lets you pull the back panel out of the unit and then you can get at the stopcock. The dishwasher power plug and water isolation tap are here too so wouldn't be instantly available in an emergency either. It's inconvenient but the installation was done by a good friend who's a kitchen fitter at a decent price so suppose i mustn't grumble.
Anyway, here's the "stuff" I had to move:
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And the shelf and back panel (the one on the left with the securing clips:
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Having removed all this the stopcock is now visible:
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Bit "tucked away" though isn't it? Not that easy to get your hand in to turn it. However I did manage to turn it about a quarter of a turn just to check it was not seized as I've come across seized ones in the past. I don't really like doing this because you sometimes end up with a leak from the spindle gland if the tap hasn't been touched for years - as they often are. However this one turned easily and isn't leaking. Yippee!
Ok, now for the "main event". Pinched Mrs J's grill pan base and slid it in under the tap/connector in the cupboard next to the washing machine bay. Turned the tap clockwise a quarter turn, it can only turn a quarter turn anyway, and it feels really nice and smooth. I was hoping it would feel like this. The water pressure is being held back by the solenoid valve in the washing machine so the moving ball valve in this tap/connector is not under any real differential pressure - pressure in the hose is equal to the pressure in the supply pipe to equal on both sides of the tap. Nothing for it, quick glance to check the path is clear back into the kitchen so I can reach the stopcock in a hurry if needed and it's time to undo the screwed on hose connector. This installation has been done with a mixture of old copper compression fittings and the newer "O" ring push fit type. The tap itself is a compression fit on to a very short stub of copper pipe which is then a push fit into a plastic "T" piece taking water from the stopcock in the kitchen. I'm very wary of applying twisting rotational forces to these plastic fittings in case they rotate and start leaking, or even actually come apart? So I grip the tap itself with one hand and unscrew the hose connector with the other. There's a very small spurt of water as the seal is broken and then a few drips from the now quite slack pipe connector. This is exactly what I hoped for because it means the tap has to be off, or 99% off anyway. Unscrewing the connector completely until the hose comes away from the fitting confirms the tap is water tight - Oh joy, the relief is just so great! Here's the disconnected tap fitting:
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Unplug the power cable and pull the waste pipe off the sink drain spigot then pull the machine out from under the worksurface/unit until I can get the hoses pulled out. The hoses and power lead go over the top of the divider and under the sink drainer through this slot:
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Here it is from the other side:
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The hoses are fine, just pull through, but the 3 pin plug just won't go. I tried for ages but just couldn't work it out. It went in so surely it must come out some way? Anyway, in the end I unscrewed the wee clip you can see top right in the second last picture above (at one o'clock) which allowed me to lift the drainer slightly and wiggle the plug out between the drainer and top of the unit. Now I can pull the machine clear:
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ready for the men who are delivering the new one - just got text - between 3 and 5 pm.
If you're doing this remember to loop the pipes over the top of the machine. If you let them fall to the floor any water still in the machine will be happy to drain out all over your floor!