Technical What is the expected life of a timing chain on Multijet?

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Technical What is the expected life of a timing chain on Multijet?

YorkshireFiat

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Hi
I've been searching around the forum and can't seem to find any guidance....

I've got a 2008 1.3 Multijet which has done 99,000 miles. I've been searching for other info and come across a few references to timing chains snapping, so I wondered if there's a recommended lifespan for them?

I don't have any reason to be concerned at the mo, just pondering some proactive maintenance!

Thanks in advance.
 
I had the same engine in a wee Corsa van, the same chain with over 150000 on the clock until some plonker wrote it off. The chain needs clean oil, I changed mine twice yearly along with the filter regardless of mileage. Fuel filter changed yearly.
 
Oil history is probably the main determining factor. Regular changes using the right oil will probably mean the chain will outlast the rest of the engine, as per design.
Skimped oil changes or wrong grade will lead to stretched chain and failed tensioner, probably resulting in a snapped chain. Unfortunately, unless you have owned it from new it is a bit of a lottery, even with complete service history.
Seen them with 200k+ and almost no compression but still on original chain.
Also seen them with 80k-ish with a busted chain (strangely mostly from Vauxhall Corsas).
Chain kit is fairly cheap (even ruling out the really cheap unknown brand ones), and job CAN be done with engine in place (even on a 169 Panda!).
Sump has to come off to do it properly (some claim to be able to do it without, but I have doubts).
 
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Hi
I've been searching around the forum and can't seem to find any guidance....

I've got a 2008 1.3 Multijet which has done 99,000 miles. I've been searching for other info and come across a few references to timing chains snapping, so I wondered if there's a recommended lifespan for them?

I don't have any reason to be concerned at the mo, just pondering some proactive maintenance!

Thanks in advance.


If well looked after @120k

If you dont know its history.. probably worth getting quotes for a new kit :)
 
A 2008 Panda probably isn't worth the cost of. Anew chain unless the rest of the car is in very good condition depending on what area of the UK I'd expect £350+

It's worth it if you can do the job yourself - the parts aren't that expensive.

If you can't change it yourself, then it depends on how lucky you feel, and how much of a hardship it would be to replace the car if it fails.

If it does break, it'll write the car off.
 
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My 2005 is on 140k and original chain. Oil change every 3k miles/6 months since new.

Our old Doblo vans at work all had the 1.3 MJ engine in. We scrapped all 12 due to age, but all of them had over 300k miles and still on original chains.

I think it's like everything, you only tend to hear about it when it goes wrong. Back in 2013, there were over 5 million of the MJ engines built.....so even if 5000 of them broke the chains, that's only 0.1%.
 
I could be miles of the mark and totally wrong


there is an itch at the back of my mind that some multijet chains fairly early on due to a blocked DPF, short journeys


something about diesel entering the sump and washing the timing chain


I Might have the wrong engine ??? or old wives tail. Cant really remember it was a long time ago
 
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I Might have the wrong engine ??? or old wives tail. Cant really remember it was a long time ago

Whatever your recollection, dilution of the engine oil with diesel due to excessive/failed dpf regeneration will likely cause excesive wear on most of the internal engine parts, and the timing chain is one of the more fragile of them.

That said, I'm not sure at what stage in the production run the Panda Mjet gained a DPF. I'm fairly certain the earlier cars won't have one.
 
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That said, I'm not sure at what stage in the production run the Panda Mjet gained a DPF. I'm fairly certain the earlier cars won't have one.

From memory.. it was 'optional' @2008

There was debate on here if the J on the tailgate badge was RED it had a DPF..

IVE NEVER had a DPF my 3x 2007/8 grandes are all DPF free.. although the use they see could mean the DPF would cope well :
3000rpm for 90 minutes - probably enough

Chain.wise..
They are on 90,93 and 108 mileages :)
 
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I recently bought Popitinpete's Multijet complete with broken cam chain. I reasoned that for what he was asking I could take the risk. The car has done 120,000 and the belt failed with no rattles or hints of wear-n-tear. Repairs will cost
* about £80 for the chain kit
* £160 (give or take) for cam followers
* £25 for the sump pan (which also has to come off the engine and might get damaged).
* I will probably also replace the oil pump for about £80.
* My time

There could be more serious damage but we allowed for that in the price.

I would say get the belt changed. It's not as simple as the 1.1/1.2 cam belt but blame Fiat bean counters for not using a double row chain.

PS Its a 2009 in the £30 road tax band, but I cant see any sign of a DPF.
 
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I recently bought Popitinpete's Multijet complete with broken cam chain. I reasoned that for what he was asking I could take the risk. The car has done 120,000 and the belt failed with no rattles or hints of wear-n-tear. Repairs will cost
* about £80 for the chain kit
* £160 (give or take) for cam followers
* £25 for the sump pan (which also has to come off the engine and might get damaged).
* I will probably also replace the oil pump for about £80.
* My time

There could be more serious damage but we allowed for that in the price.

I would say get the belt changed. It's not as simple as the 1.1/1.2 cam belt but blame Fiat bean counters for not using a double row chain.

PS Its a 2009 in the £30 road tax band, but I cant see any sign of a DPF.

£160+£80 = £140

you can buy a combined kit for £199 or less

you will spend another £100 give or take buying oil, locking kit and sundries
 
I'm changing the oil pump as well so budgeting £400 to fix the car plus my labour. The engine will be coming out as I want to change the gearbox oil seal and the additional work means i can work in the garage and take as long as I need.

If I was "simply" changing the cam chain, I'd do it in the car. Access can't be any more restricted than the cam bets on 1200/1400 petrols.

I already have the cam locking tools, though might need the special crank locking plate. I also need to make a cam wheel holding tool from steel bar and M10 bolts. That just leaves the LH thread end bolt in the crank, which has to be tightened against whatever is used to lock the crank.
 
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