Technical Warning - Jack Point is rather soft...

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Technical Warning - Jack Point is rather soft...

DickBarton

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Feb 2, 2009
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Stirling, Scotland
Got my wheel repaired and just put it back on...50 minutes later I got the second axle stand off and examined the damage.

I was using a trolley jack and the first side (passenger) jacked up no probs at all - removed the axle stand and slowly lower the car to the tyre. Went round to drivers side and put the trolley jack on and made sure the plate sections were touching the correct indent bits underneath the body. Jacked away and the car started to rise - I was only needing it to raise about 10mm so I could remove the jack...I got about 8mm and the car dropped...removed the jack and looked to see what had happened - the jack point had collapsed and folded...talk about weak! The next 50 minutes were then spent with several things wedged between jack and car body to try and spread the load so it would raise the 10mm - finally got it and removed the jack - trying to slowly lower the car...as it lowered the underside failed again...so I've now got a collapsed jack point with some exposed metal - what can I cover this with to help prevent rusting?

Just letting the rest of you know, I do think I was being cautious - making sure the trolley plate mated with the jack point properly and then slowly raising the car...but clearly it wasn't enough. If you ever need to repair a flat or replace a wheel - take it to a garage and let them deal with it as it appears that the jack points are made from warm cheese!
 
I used the sissors jack comes with the car, never had any problem, I have the habbit to swap the tyre round evey 5k miles, I used two sissors jack therefore i can jack the front and rear at the same time.
 
That doesn't sound good. Got any photos of the affected area and the trollet jack plate?


I don't know if this is relevent but the Tipo manual had instructions for making a wooden block for if you ever wanted to jack the car by a trolley jack at the scissor jack point.
 
As mentioned in other threads - my car didn't come with a jack (or spare wheel!)...will upload shots tomorrow - for reference more than anything else...
 
The damage -

3633378564_2b52551030.jpg


I went to Halfords and got some Hammerite Rust Proofing spray - like that Dynax stuff - I'll get it sprayed on tonight...will apply a couple of coats.

The Passenger side (which had been jacked and wheel removed and then put back on), damage free -

3633378810_c4fe56bb5c.jpg


Steel bikes? Not for the last 10 years...but if the colour and texture is good, I might do my Pace wheels just to be 'different'!!!
 
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Looks like you put all the weight on the flanged joint that has bent. The standard jack just uses the vertical flange to locate in a slot, and the weight is spread on the horizontal floor.

According to eLearn, most panels on the Bravo are galvanised, with heavier galv on vulnerable panels, such as the sills. Hopefully the exposed metal is just the zinc!
 
I've noticed the same prob on my bravo as well. After the cars first service at the fiat dealer my car returned in similar condition to the above photo. Not good. I used hamerite on it to cover it up which has done the job. I've never noticed this problem on my previous cars, including 2 puntos and a Stilo. The fact that the car has only been jacked up by a fiat dealer i'm assuming its been jacked up correctly so surely it shouldn't bend the metal and rip the paint off?!:confused:
 
The damage was only done after the service, i know the sill was not bent and the paint surface was intacked before the service and damaged straight after. Also if the sill can't take the weight without bending a rubber platform wouldn't prevent damage.
 
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