Technical Timing belt on a 1998 2 litre petrol engine
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Technical Timing belt on a 1998 2 litre petrol engine
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According to Wikipedia this would be a PSA RFW engine. It may have been fitted to other Citroen or Peugeot vehicles. Perhaps worth investigating that possibility.
If you can confirm the engine series exactly and age and exact cc etc. I may be able to find cam belt details from that engine used in another make of vehicle. I have cam belt books around that era but a blind spot on certain models around late 90s so give all the detail you know.
I don't want vin or reg though.
I don't want vin or reg though.
Hughworcester
Member
Hi Mike and thanks for the response. Ive actually stripped the engine mounting and upper plastic cover off and I already have a belt and water pump off ebay that corresponds to the model year etc. My engine is RFW 230AGMFA if that makes sense. The cam belt kit is Gates KP15413XS. I was hoping to find a garage to fit this but it seems they dont like fitting parts found by the owner so Im hoping to go ahead and fit it. Im struggling to loosen the nut holding the 2 pulleys (alternator and power steering pump), its very tight and Im wondering if its counter threaded? Also I dont know anything about timing marks but I guess if I replace the belt on the same teeth it wont matter? Thanks for the advise, Hugh
I do understand where garage is coming from, for two reasons, one if the parts are wrong they have a delay with ramp blocked whereas if their supplier provides the parts , the parts company sends out on next van. The other is there is a profit element on the trade price of parts.
Unlikely to be counter thread, just tight.
Don't take this as gospel , but I did some cross referencing on the belt and it seems to be a PAS XU10J2 Peugeot Citroen 2.0 litre engine.
I found this for the Peugeot variant of the XU10J2 , it lists many of the RF* numbers but as this book only goes up to 1996 that may be why it doesn't show the RFW. Apparently the engine was also used in Citroen Relay versions , but not in my books.
The book mention diesel timing but I think this is a misprint as no sign of an injector pump.
See if these instructions bare any relevance to yours. Your risk obviously
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Hughworcester
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Dear Mike, thanks so much and this is such valauable and hard to get detail. I think youre right that the engine is the same for Peugot and Citroen. Ive looked on ebay and found the timing belt tool kit (fits Peugot boxer) that Ill send away for and then things should fall into place. I just need to release the bolt holding the lower pulleys, it seems very tight. Thanks again, best wishes HughI do understand where garage is coming from, for two reasons, one if the parts are wrong they have a delay with ramp blocked whereas if their supplier provides the parts , the parts company sends out on next van. The other is there is a profit element on the trade price of parts.
Unlikely to be counter thread, just tight.
Don't take this as gospel , but I did some cross referencing on the belt and it seems to be a PAS XU10J2 Peugeot Citroen 2.0 litre engine.
I found this for the Peugeot variant of the XU10J2 , it lists many of the RF* numbers but as this book only goes up to 1996 that may be why it doesn't show the RFW. Apparently the engine was also used in Citroen Relay versions , but not in my books.
The book mention diesel timing but I think this is a misprint as no sign of an injector pump.
See if these instructions bare any relevance to yours. Your risk obviously
This is the tool...https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251370045636?_nkw=Peugot+tool+0132.r&itmmeta=01J5RCKX3F8NZ6Y5P86RENT1HT&hash=item3a86d280c4:g
PMAAMXQfvlSco-j&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKn3eAef%2BA3qv%2FAA%2Fkj8KRDtOGhttmyHZ0x%2Br%2BX3QIrQnD4%2BzpX%2BeLR2ew6tNdgz2%2FzF7z9hSNt%2FS6bHYAtaSr4uK0JMXSu47N8GrqKJh2vvJyhd19OJXJ33SqJq1wIBe%2BXH4Lavx6AssvG17CTi%2F1Ww6cWIbk8NivQ3yJhyQasWZKDr4ZBFNmlratbvPfxGt7UAKesnw2zFDkpZ9nt4tU2UBptxWQUlhV%2FYdObnsj3V%2FLwtDy3fqxTmzMg%2FiH8t9Ti1XOAzBtN31Vr3z9vjKppwwDtuQDE7%2Bf9sZletUNITNw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-bRz4yuZAPersonally on those engines I would probably just use drill bits or bolts to lock the sprockets in their holes similar to the photos, it is what we always did in the past. Later engines are more technical so need special tools.Dear Mike, thanks so much and this is such valauable and hard to get detail. I think youre right that the engine is the same for Peugot and Citroen. Ive looked on ebay and found the timing belt tool kit (fits Peugot boxer) that Ill send away for and then things should fall into place. I just need to release the bolt holding the lower pulleys, it seems very tight. Thanks again, best wishes Hugh
This is the tool...https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251370045636?_nkw=Peugot+tool+0132.r&itmmeta=01J5RCKX3F8NZ6Y5P86RENT1HT&hash=item3a86d280c4:g
When I used to do the cam belt on the diesel XUD version of those engines, which I did several in the past I just used the bolts to lock the timing and a son in law who worked for a Peugeot garage loaned me a Z shaped tool which I copied using 8 mm stainless steel rod to make the the final tool which could drop down behind the starter and engage through to back of flywheel for final lock meaning I could leave starter in place.
If you have problems undoing those pulley bolts and want top lock the engine without any extra tools, you can remove the starter and simple jam a 8 mm combination spanner in the flywheel teeth, just be carful not to drop it in the bell housing.
As with all these jobs , as long as great care taken and when finished engine careful turned several revolutions by hand to ensure no metal contact there was never any problems.
Unlike all the variable timing pulleys etc. on modern stuff
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Hughworcester
Member
Hi Mike, thanks so much for your help that empowered me to have a go at changing the timing belt. Ive now done it and the engine starts up fine and the nasty bearing noise from the water pump has gone. The lower pulley had no holes to insert the fixing shaft but the top did and I was able to fix the crankshaft (having removed the starter motor as you suggested) using the little gizmo that came with the the cam kit. I now see your point of using a drill bit but 50 quid on a kit was not bad.Personally on those engines I would probably just use drill bits or bolts to lock the sprockets in their holes similar to the photos, it is what we always did in the past. Later engines are more technical so need special tools.
When I used to do the cam belt on the diesel XUD version of those engines, which I did several in the past I just used the bolts to lock the timing and a son in law who worked for a Peugeot garage loaned me a Z shaped tool which I copied using 8 mm stainless steel rod to make the the final tool which could drop down behind the starter and engage through to back of flywheel for final lock meaning I could leave starter in place.
If you have problems undoing those pulley bolts and want top lock the engine without any extra tools, you can remove the starter and simple jam a 8 mm combination spanner in the flywheel teeth, just be carful not to drop it in the bell housing.
As with all these jobs , as long as great care taken and when finished engine careful turned several revolutions by hand to ensure no metal contact there was never any problems.
Unlike all the variable timing pulleys etc. on modern stuff
The old cam belt had almost certainly not been changed in 90,000 miles and 25 years so its a good result. It was looking tired and could have snapped at any time, sods law dictating that it would happen at the worst moment. But then theres no good time for a destroyed engine! We now have a smoothly running camper van.
Thanks again and best wishes Hugh
I suspect that Z shape tool I mentioned would have worked for the crank timing mark.
When the starter was out you may have seen a small hole in the engine casting facing towards the flywheel, with starter out you could put a suitable size drill r similar straight in to hold the timing, Peuget /Citroen have used that method for years and the 2010 Fiat Scudo 2.0 litre I have with the 16 valve Peugeot engine still uses it.
Glad you succeeded.
Hughworcester
Member
Hi Mike, sorry this isnt the same thread but I realise you really know this RFW engine...the temperature guage isnt working and Im guessing its the sensor. Ive found one at the lower exit of the radiator but was expecting one on the block..any ideas?I suspect that Z shape tool I mentioned would have worked for the crank timing mark.
When the starter was out you may have seen a small hole in the engine casting facing towards the flywheel, with starter out you could put a suitable size drill r similar straight in to hold the timing, Peuget /Citroen have used that method for years and the 2010 Fiat Scudo 2.0 litre I have with the 16 valve Peugeot engine still uses it.
Glad you succeeded.
thanks alot, Hugh
Ha, ha. Sorry no specific model knowledge on your vehicle , it's just being a motor engineer for over 55 years so general knowledge on many vehicles as have worked on most in that time.
With Peugeot based engines I would expect a temp sensor towards the top of engine / head area and another sensor/switch on the lower part of the radiator to kick a fan in if getting hot , but many Peugeots had dodgy sensors that put up "STOP" warnings re overheating even on stone cold motors
You may find more detail from a Haynes manual on that model of car using your engine.
My technical data manuals are more related specifications rather than layouts.
It maybe on the earlier engines this photo is a guide but apparently later ones had a temp sensor by the thermostat housing.
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Hughworcester
Member
Thanks again and you were right, one sensor by the cooling fan and one near the head on the distributer end. Ive sent off for a new one, best wishes HughHa, ha. Sorry no specific model knowledge on your vehicle , it's just being a motor engineer for over 55 years so general knowledge on many vehicles as have worked on most in that time.
With Peugeot based engines I would expect a temp sensor towards the top of engine / head area and another sensor/switch on the lower part of the radiator to kick a fan in if getting hot , but many Peugeots had dodgy sensors that put up "STOP" warnings re overheating even on stone cold motors
You may find more detail from a Haynes manual on that model of car using your engine.
My technical data manuals are more related specifications rather than layouts.
It maybe on the earlier engines this photo is a guide but apparently later ones had a temp sensor by the thermostat housing.
In the old days if temp sensor was just a single wire, then it was "earth return", so it could be earthed and the gauge would swing to hot all the way as a test, this also worked on fuel gauges back then.
However on more modern stuff there are often more than one wire so do not try this
Hughworcester
Member
I did swap the wires, probably just in hope. And it didnt read so Ive ordered a replacement...l£8 on ebay and £36 on gsf, looks identical!In the old days if temp sensor was just a single wire, then it was "earth return", so it could be earthed and the gauge would swing to hot all the way as a test, this also worked on fuel gauges back then.
However on more modern stuff there are often more than one wire so do not try this
If two wires on sensor you may be able to read a resistance in Ohms using a multimeter to see if it has continuity with plug disconnected and also to see if the terminal sensors on the plug are shorting to the earth /metal part of sensor.
I don't know what the readings should be, but it would give a clue if broken internally.
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