Technical Time to service...

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Technical Time to service...

Regarding the lower rad hose clip, you have to get in with a hacksaw blade and cut through the folded bit, and junk the whole clip. Then replace with a suitable new Jubilee clip.

That may damage the pipe and radiator if youre not careful. Use a vice grips, lock it onto the clip and break the clip off. Be careful that you dont put on too much pressure though. Twist the hose untill it moves then withdraw. If it wont twist use the vice grips or a stiltson (in extreme cases). Then use a new jubilee clip.

As for the airbox, try plusgas and leave overnight, then attack it with an impact driver and appropiate bit. That should work :)
 
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Will try the above suggestions over the weekend hopefully :) I was thinking though, what if I remove the airbox all together and replace it with a K&N filter? Or are they no good on tiny 1.2 engines?
 
The only damage you should do removing the clip using a junior hacksaw or full hacksaw blade only should be a bit of skin from your fingers or knuckles...

The K&N panel filter is the best option, after a genuine Fiat filter.

If you can find a replacement filter box lid then you can easily butcher the old one off and get molegrips on the stuck bolts.
 
Will try the above suggestions over the weekend hopefully :) I was thinking though, what if I remove the airbox all together and replace it with a K&N filter? Or are they no good on tiny 1.2 engines?

The "official" fittment of the 57i for the 1.2 bravo works from an air feed supplied from the airbox. I dont think its a particularly good idea....

I use one that i customised to fit on my bravo from a mk1 punto sporting with a custom ram pipe. It definitely raised the mpgs for me when not driven hard and when driven hard it turns heads :p Its more responsive and seems to be quicker then a standard setup (yes we run 2 bravos)

Vid of it in action :D

 
Is there any way of changing the timing belt without the special Fiat tools?
 
You need at least the cam locking tools. You can make up the pulley holder, guess the cycle of the engine and what stage its at and tension the tensioner yourself manually by moving it in with the spring counter weight (this is how we did it the first time) but you need at least the locking tools.

Any decent motor fac will have them listed (not hallfrauds) usually laser tools :)
 
You need at least the cam locking tools. You can make up the pulley holder, guess the cycle of the engine and what stage its at and tension the tensioner yourself manually by moving it in with the spring counter weight (this is how we did it the first time) but you need at least the locking tools.

Any decent motor fac will have them listed (not hallfrauds) usually laser tools :)

Well, my dads got the new belt on (decided to change the water pump also) but he isn't sure about the timing... He knows the owners of a few garages so hopefully he'll be able to get the tools todays - and advice on how to do it :p He thought the pistons had to be at TDC for a start:idea:
 
These engines are timed when the pistons are all level and the engine is at a certain cycle not tdc.... Did he change the tensioner aswell? These will break if the bearings are dry and can cut into a new belt... Ive seen a car come in here in that state!!! :eek:

Yep, changed that aswell.

Update: my dad changed the belt, guessed the timing etc and all seemed well - engined started first time, ticked over fine, revved fine. Buttt, just went to take it on a test drive and the engine management light is on and it struggled to rev over 2K when you're actually driving it (revs fine when in neutral though). Any ideas?
 
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