This cant be for real...

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This cant be for real...

No, definately no expert - I happen to have studied things of that ilk for a few years though.

Id expect some heat treatment will have been applied - probably a carburisation or similar to keep the outer surface hard but fairly crack resistant and still keeping some ductility as it's an item constantly under fatigue. I think you and I have been reading the same sources TBH - Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams...

Im not absolutely sure on the heat treatment youde have to give it - but the primary aim is to ensure the spring end is hard, not brittle but still ductile - well outside of pearlite / martensite regions in the outer area - but the slow cool time will help that (the hardest crystals are typically formed by cooling fastest)

Interesting topic and I think I am gonna have to look for this book.

The final treatment of spring steel after hardening is tempering where the metal is heated between 150 and 300 C for a defined time then allowed to cool slowly to a set temp before being quenched.

If I was doing it I would heat to form the shape but keeping an eye on the colour of the metal you would want a full red (cherry red). Quench in cold water but keep the spring moving. This will leave the end of the spring hardened. Next you want to temper it so the bit you have worked is ductile. Sand a bit if the spring so the metal shines. Heat the metal until the shiny bit is purple and leave it to cool.

WARNING: The spring will not have the same properties all the way through unless you re-harden and re-temper the whole spring and I would not suggest doing this. Infact I would suggest buying some new springs.
 
Halfords Spring Clamps...

how long until they get sued for these :eek:

thats the up dated kit, this is the old one GR-GE07_LRG.jpg
 
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