Techy advice needed on Seat Ibiza 1.4

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Techy advice needed on Seat Ibiza 1.4

Ffoxy

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Is the Seat Ibiza 1.4 a good buy for an 18 year old with full licence & a years NCD guys n gals? We are talking around 51 plate ish, around 2 to 3grand. Safe? Reliable? Economical? Easy to fix at home?

Any known weaknesses any of you knowledgeable guys know of?

Any help appreciated (y)
 
i know the 99-02 ibiza well. its a good car, much better than the average for its class at that time. steering and braking are great.

for an 18yo they are very suitable because they are reliable and very cheap to run (ins grp 3 and 40+mpg).

the only problem i have ever come across is a dirty throttlebody causing an erratic idle. 5 min to clean it and job done. the wheel bearings dont seem to last as long as they should (70k is not unusual). its a pretty safe bet that all you will ever need to do is service it.
 
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Cheers Jug, shes moving up from a 1.0 Micra with over 100k on it. Been totally reliable but its not cool enough for her now in the Street-cred game. I imagine it will get the alloys and lowering treatment but she is paying her own insurance so meh....

I just want it safe, reliable and economical, heard rumours of plastic timing belt pulleys disintegrating but we will be looking for the usual Service history One lady owner gem and hope to strike fast in a month or two.

Cheers again... Anyone else any more to add to Jugs words?
 
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can get mk2b 1.4 sportings for that money

:eek: I'm no masochist dave, we already live with 2 FIATS.... :) Mostly tho she dont like them, wifey offered her the 1.2 Stilo but thats not cool enough... and its too big she says.... to me its the same sector as the Seat Ibiza but thats kids.... and its her money. :eek:
 
Forgot to mention... Honest John Car Reviews points out that a blowing exhaust from the downpipe should be avoided as the front subframe has to be dropped to replace it? Is that for real anyone? :confused:
 
yes it is true you need to drop the subframe, but the cost fears are overexaggerated. dont worry about it.

its similar to the fiat 20v timing belt myth that the engine needs to come out so it costs at least £700. utter tripe.
 
yes it is true you need to drop the subframe, but the cost fears are overexaggerated. dont worry about it.

its similar to the fiat 20v timing belt myth that the engine needs to come out so it costs at least £700. utter tripe.

Thanks again Jug, used cars can be a moneypit I appreciate, maybe the answer is to look for a new, preferably stainless downpipe already fitted. Just want the best chance of success for her really. I'll add that check to my list I will put together when we go view, spreading the net wide, willing to travel 100 miles for the right car. She likes funky colours, Yellow, Lime green but its up to her!

I've signed on to The Seat Forum anyhow, easier for them to give me some answers but as usual I trust the FF members views.
 
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I've signed on to The Seat Forum anyhow, easier for them to give me some answers but as usual I trust the FF members views.

i use SEATForum. it isnt bad at all (y)

EDIT: btw, when i was thinking about buying one of these ibizas (many years ago) i remember that the .cool/S and chill and S all have very similar spec, and its a good spec. the .cool and vibe aren't as good, and the nameless base model is crud.

i signed the finance forms for a .cool/S back in 2000. thankfully i was refused finance.
 
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i use SEATForum. it isnt bad at all (y)

EDIT: btw, when i was thinking about buying one of these ibizas (many years ago) i remember that the .cool/S and chill and S all have very similar spec, and its a good spec. the .cool and vibe aren't as good, and the nameless base model is crud.

i signed the finance forms for a .cool/S back in 2000. thankfully i was refused finance.

Cool, same name for me on there. Always happy to get your free advice mate. Its the 1.4 Chill she likes, as you say pretty well specced (y)

Finance has to be a no-no, she has to save up. I cant trust the economic climate at the mo so thats the deal. Prices look reasonable to be fair, not exactly falling off trees in numbers with the right spec and conditions tho
 
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if you consider that its a good looking vw polo then the prices are great.

its a popular car so you'll need to act fast when you find one, and keep checking daily.

Well we finally bought a clean straight HPI clear 1.4 Chill in silver Jug.

54k miles, cambelt already done and new zorst. 52 plate 2 grand. Needs a service but I'm cool with that, even came with some service history. Runs great and drives nice, no ball of fire as you say. Its very tidy. All in all pleased at the mo, we collect it from Manc next weekend.

Could really do with a "how to service" guide but I suppose a Haynes book is in order(y)
 
cant go wrong for £2k (y)

you can use VAGCAT for part finding, its similar to EPER (but far better).

there is no haynes for that model, although a significant amount of the mk2 ibiza manual still applies. personally i'd download the workshop manual instead.
 
cant go wrong for £2k (y)

you can use VAGCAT for part finding, its similar to EPER (but far better).

there is no haynes for that model, although a significant amount of the mk2 ibiza manual still applies. personally i'd download the workshop manual instead.

Cheers Jug, I feel it was a good deal. I am trying to find out why it sounds a bit diesel - ish, apparently they are like that with the 8 valve motor, I looked at 6 or 7 and they were the same. This one is the lowest mileage and best nick. Its not cammy or bottom end just .... well... diesel-ish when cold... any ideas? No-one seems to think its a problem on the Seat Forums I joined :confused:
 
Cheers Jug, I feel it was a good deal. I am trying to find out why it sounds a bit diesel - ish, apparently they are like that with the 8 valve motor, I looked at 6 or 7 and they were the same. This one is the lowest mileage and best nick. Its not cammy or bottom end just .... well... diesel-ish when cold... any ideas? No-one seems to think its a problem on the Seat Forums I joined :confused:

Modern petrols running fairly high injector pressures can sound dieselly at start up due to this although not to sure as to the precise details of a seat ibiza 1.4.
 
Cheers Jug, I feel it was a good deal. I am trying to find out why it sounds a bit diesel - ish, apparently they are like that with the 8 valve motor, I looked at 6 or 7 and they were the same. This one is the lowest mileage and best nick. Its not cammy or bottom end just .... well... diesel-ish when cold... any ideas? No-one seems to think its a problem on the Seat Forums I joined :confused:

should have mentioned this earlier really. its true, it is a common problem. well i say problem, it isnt really a problem or caused by a fault, its simply a characteristic of that engine. they're all like that in my experience.

the issue is that the tappets are hydraulic, but they drain when the engine is switched off. dry tappets do not adjust valve clearances correctly, so they tap until they fill with oil.

how quickly and how much the tapping stops tells you a lot about the engine's oil circulation. first start of the morning it will tap, but it should become much more quiet fairly quickly. if it is still tapping loudly after 2 mins then you have a problem, either the oil is too thick (should be 10w40) or the oil ways are blocked leading to less oil circulation to the head.

the best way to deal with it is to use engine flush at every oil change, use fully synthetic oil, and change the oil every 12k. if that is obeyed you will have a much quieter engine (also quicker and uses less petrol)

you dont know if/when this engine was last flushed, so if it was my car i would stick 2 bottles of engine flush in and keep it at high idle (2000rpm) for 15 mins. sounds extreme, but it gets things clean. then dump the oil, replace the oil filter, and refill with synthetic oil. it usually does the trick.

i have in the past helped people to make it quieter on a cold start by using 5w40 oil instead. the only difference is that it is thinner when cold, but exactly the same when warm, so its safe. i wouldnt be surprised if other people on the seat forum are doing this. maybe you should ask them and see if anyone else has done it, and what their experience was.
 
should have mentioned this earlier really. its true, it is a common problem. well i say problem, it isnt really a problem or caused by a fault, its simply a characteristic of that engine. they're all like that in my experience.

the issue is that the tappets are hydraulic, but they drain when the engine is switched off. dry tappets do not adjust valve clearances correctly, so they tap until they fill with oil.

how quickly and how much the tapping stops tells you a lot about the engine's oil circulation. first start of the morning it will tap, but it should become much more quiet fairly quickly. if it is still tapping loudly after 2 mins then you have a problem, either the oil is too thick (should be 10w40) or the oil ways are blocked leading to less oil circulation to the head.

the best way to deal with it is to use engine flush at every oil change, use fully synthetic oil, and change the oil every 12k. if that is obeyed you will have a much quieter engine (also quicker and uses less petrol)

you dont know if/when this engine was last flushed, so if it was my car i would stick 2 bottles of engine flush in and keep it at high idle (2000rpm) for 15 mins. sounds extreme, but it gets things clean. then dump the oil, replace the oil filter, and refill with synthetic oil. it usually does the trick.

i have in the past helped people to make it quieter on a cold start by using 5w40 oil instead. the only difference is that it is thinner when cold, but exactly the same when warm, so its safe. i wouldnt be surprised if other people on the seat forum are doing this. maybe you should ask them and see if anyone else has done it, and what their experience was.

Brilliant thanks again Jug. Its kinda what I figured, flush and refill, I will be using synthetic 5w40 I think. Its odd really, I am on SCN (Seat Cupra.Net) and there is as yet no sign of any Top Bloke information on there TBH. Most who know of this noise just seem to accept it as a characteristic. The pedal box is another issue that has surfaced, clutch pedal becomes stiff, probably the cable, then the poor welds give way....
 
The pedal box is another issue that has surfaced, clutch pedal becomes stiff, probably the cable, then the poor welds give way....
yeah that sounds like another example of the type of problems caused by poor maintenance. all cable operated clutches should be lubricated.
 
yeah that sounds like another example of the type of problems caused by poor maintenance. all cable operated clutches should be lubricated.

Quite.... also getting into the V.A.G. scene has shown me that their products are nowhere near perfect, as if I needed reminding. Its worth being on there, its like home from home, FIAT are not that bad trust me, and we pay less for the "privilege" too! :p
 
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