Technical Rust - prevention

[jackwhoo]

Generally Gear oil absolutely stinks of really bad cat pee. It will make you feel very unwell indeed if you exposed to it for a length of time.

Spray grease is equally effective and doesn't smell bad, plus it comes in a spray can and isn't expensive.


decide which parts you are going to paint and which parts you are going to oil/grease/ wax

Plus you will be getting advice from your friendly garage soon , thet will see first hand.

 

[jackwhoo]

https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/p/h...wq015QpRJKUnFTLcyK6nylV7pOE4p9EhoCaj8QAvD_BwE

This sort of thing

NOT spray white grease


You could see if chain oil for chain saws is a good price and apply by brush if you wish to try that.

 

[Reg 65]

Did you enjoy the you tube video of an independent test?
Even though he didn't try gear oil?
I thought he was very thorough , he put an awful lot of effort into his testing.

Yes but he didn't test gear oil or paints, or the effects of flying stone chippings that chip them causing water and rust to grow beneath. The steel wheels of vehicles is closer to the conditions underneath the vehicle, and I found Hammerite best of the few I have tried. But to prepare the surface properly getting into all the nooks and crannies you would really need to strip it right down to the bodyshell and sandblast it like the professional restorers. But it isn't worth that, so oil is the second best thing as far as I know.

 

[Reg 65]

Generally Gear oil absolutely stinks of really bad cat pee.

The sulphur content in Extreme Pressure lubricants can smell like rotten eggs, but will soon vapourise off when its spread thin under the van. You could sniff a bottle, and if it bothers you use the thickest engine oil instead. I would still prefer fresh oil to the used engine oil recommended by some. I think the smell not so bad, and it doesn't stain.

 

[jackwhoo]

Yes but he didn't test gear oil or paints, or the effects of flying stone chippings that chip them causing water and rust to grow beneath. The steel wheels of vehicles is closer to the conditions underneath the vehicle, and I found Hammerite best of the few I have tried. But to prepare the surface properly getting into all the nooks and crannies you would really need to strip it right down to the bodyshell and sandblast it like the professional restorers. But it isn't worth that, so oil is the second best thing as far as I know.

No he didn't lazy blighter

I haven't found gear oil to loose it's pungent odour no matter how long or how thin it is.

 

[Reg 65]

well the smell is gas coming from it, like a leaking gas cylinder, - and as there is a limited amount it must stop eventually.

 

[jimboy]

Definitely can't reach it all with the disc cutter.
Will gear oil stop/greatly slow the rust? I don't know how far off that is being bad.

A handy thing is to get one of those wire cup rotor attachments, on a drill you may be able to reach some awkward nooks and crannies. They come in all sizes, longer the better helps even more.

 

[Gman88667733]

A handy thing is to get one of those wire cup rotor attachments, on a drill you may be able to reach some awkward nooks and crannies. They come in all sizes, longer the better helps even more.

I've got a few of those, but they are fairly short.
Going to get the opinion of my garage on Wednesday when it goes in anyway and then go from there.

 

[Reg 65]

I've got a few of those, but they are fairly short.
Going to get the opinion of my garage on Wednesday when it goes in anyway and then go from there.

Its not going to get into corners, under pipes and fittings etc etc - all places where rust grows. But oil can because it will soak through a bit of muck and rust to get to, and protect, the metal underneath

 

[Gman88667733]

Van is at the garage today. He said there are some holes around the rear suspension, just waiting for a quote...

Hopefully once it is done properly, it won't need to be touched for a few years. If that's how rust works?

 

[jackwhoo]

Van is at the garage today. He said there are some holes around the rear suspension, just waiting for a quote...

Hopefully once it is done properly, it won't need to be touched for a few years. If that's how rust works?

Hi Gman,
Good to hear you and van progressing.

After welding done you must protect the welded areas as best you can, inside and out. Exactly the same as the other rusty areas of your van. It still is a very good van and will be amazing after your work.

You are amazing diving into all of this new to you stuff , please keep it up.

No joke you are an inspiration in getting stuck in and getting over problems.

Please keep us updated.

Cheers Jack

 

[Gman88667733]

Hi Gman,
Good to hear you and van progressing.

After welding done you must protect the welded areas as best you can, inside and out. Exactly the same as the other rusty areas of your van. It still is a very good van and will be amazing after your work.

You are amazing diving into all of this new to you stuff , please keep it up.

No joke you are an inspiration in getting stuck in and getting over problems.

Please keep us updated.

Cheers Jack

Cheers, I just want it to be solid enough for us to use it as a camper for a good while.
On the fresh metal when it has been welded, what is the best coating to apply? I know on already rusted areas, some products aren't as good. But on fresh metal, is something like waxoyl or an underseal spray the best?

 

[Gman88667733]

Also, is having welding done a big deal? I see lots of posts stating that as soon as it needs welding, they get rid.
Just concerned I may fall into a trap of constant rust issues now? I suppose I'll see what the garage say this afternoon on the overall state of it.

 

[jimboy]

Personally, when I get to the stage of welding on a vehicle, that’s an indication to get rid. Welding, if you can’t do it yourself can be expensive. Rust is a welders nightmare, welding require clean metal, and at times lots have to be cut out. Just my thoughts.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Personally, when I get to the stage of welding on a vehicle, that’s an indication to get rid. Welding, if you can’t do it yourself can be expensive. Rust is a welders nightmare, welding require clean metal, and at times lots have to be cut out. Just my thoughts.

I tend to agree with Jim on this. Rust often works on the "iceberg" principle - only a small proportion of the total affected area is visible and if you don't cut all the rust out it will come back with a vengeance. I've learned over the years also that it's futile to just give a repair a quick coat of underseal. Properly undercoat and finish coat any repair.

I used to love getting to grips with some restoration work. Welding bracing bars across door frames so a sill could be cut out before welding a new one in. Or patching sills, wheel arches, foot wells and door bottoms - which nearly always ends up illustrating the iceberg principle - gave me many enjoyable hours. I had an Allegro 1500 estate for many years which was a rolling restoration. The entire front valance including brake reaction rod mounting points had to be rebuilt on that one, the further I cut into the rusty metal the more rust I found! and my DAF 33 Van corroded around the front of the rear suspension mounts. Rear arms and variomatic units had to be stripped off - and several captive bolts snapped - before I could get at it properly. The frustrating thing is that back in those days I had the will and enthusiasm to do these things and greatly enjoyed it, but lacked quality equipment. Now I have adequate equipment (but you always know of something which would be a useful addition) but my body is less supple and it hurts to do some things and it's just not really fun any more! Life sucks huh?

 

[Gman88667733]

I will see what the garage says. On the whole it does look very clean underneath, the sills have no rust at all. I'd be gutted if after buying it and getting it ready for the conversion, it is a non starter.

 

[Reg 65]

I don't want to be confrontational,and I don't like having to say it. But sometimes you have to be cruel to be kind. To put it bluntly I don't think its worth spending the time and money converting a rusty old van like that.

Incidentally, I'm wondering about our different experience with Hammerite There are 2 types - hammered and smooth finish - I have only ever used the smooth. Maybe the hammered finish doesn't last so well. And as I said, Hammerite smooth lasted longer than the others I have tried, but I only tried a few and haven't tried any of the other products mentioned here. I'm just cynical about the claims made in their advertorials, as I don't know enough about chemistry to know whether they are bullsh*t or not.
But I can understand that oil sticks to rusty metal, keeps the water away, without which the metal won't rust further.

 

[Gman88667733]

The garage had it up in the air and gave their opinion.
He said it is definitely not a 'rot box' and he feels that other than the bits needing sorting at the rear, it is a very solid van. For a reasonable price he is going to sort it out properly so that that section isn't a concern probably for the time I have the van.
Given the mileage, the mechanical condition and the price we paid, we are going ahead with it. But keeping both eyes wide open to sort any other rust issues as soon as they start.

Had he said it isn't worth doing, id have listened, but he didn't seem at all concerned by it.

 

[andydiver]

Good, go for it, you have saught advice and you are dealing with it

Some spending on ours is from the hobby budget..or holiday budget... Sometimes the #### its gone wrong budget.... Hardly ever the sensible budget....

These vans make great conversions. It is possible to get a 6 foot (exactly) bed across the width in the night, allowing for bench seats over the wheel arches and the middle section becomes a table in the day, works well for us!

 

[Gman88667733]

Good, go for it, you have saught advice and you are dealing with it

Some spending on ours is from the hobby budget..or holiday budget... Sometimes the #### its gone wrong budget.... Hardly ever the sensible budget....

These vans make great conversions. It is possible to get a 6 foot (exactly) bed across the width in the night, allowing for bench seats over the wheel arches and the middle section becomes a table in the day, works well for us!

Thanks a lot.
Annoyingly, in 6'4 and so don't fit widthways when you take into account insulation + the cladding we are putting on the wall. So we are making an L shaped seat that pulls out to a full size double, then a work surface behind the front seats with sink, hob etc... Maybe a skinny unit next to the bed if it fit, not sure on that yet though.
Just put most of the sound deadening in, the floor is going in this weekend!