Technical Removal of Exhaust Manifold on 2.0 8v

[thepottleflump]

I'm gonna cry. Refitting exhaust today and snap, sheared off one of the studs

Anyone removed the exhaust manifold on one of these engines and knows the procedure for doing so?

I'd rather not have all the extra work to do.....Did I say I was gonna cry

 

[Hellcat]

You broke one of the studs at the bottom of the manifold?

I'm not certain the procedure - I will have a look through my manuals.

Is your exhaust a 4 to 2 to 1 affair?

 

[thepottleflump]

Yeah 4-2-1 and yes, broken stud on bottom of manifold. Not good. In my rush to refit quickly I cross threaded and then applied too much pressure. If you could take a look would be useful, neither porter or haynes covers this engine.

It doesn't look good for removal, possible head removal time, dipstick makes access to one bolt virtually impossible and one near cyl 1 looks again looks very difficult to access. But there must be a way of removing and replacing the stud without resorting to such drastic actions. What would an exhaust place do if this happened? If I do won't be end of the world, change cambelt/balancer belt at same time.

Its frustrating because its more the time aspect than anything else.

 

[thepottleflump]

Gonna try mig welding a nut to the remainder of the stud, hopefully it'll come out pretty and I can replace. All fingers and thumbs crossed.

 

[sumplug]

No. Use a stud removing tool. Whilst there is enough of the stud to remove, this is best method. If not, you will end up having to drill it out with even more problems!!

Andy.

 

[thepottleflump]

No. Use a stud removing tool. Whilst there is enough of the stud to remove, this is best method. If not, you will end up having to drill it out with even more problems!!

Andy.

Thanks Andy, got any links to such a tool? Stud is M8 I believe.

 

[sumplug]

Thanks Andy, got any links to such a tool? Stud is M8 I believe.

http://www.draper.co.uk/Pages/Pagesource/p36.pdf
There you go. Number 11.

Andy.

 

[thepottleflump]

Cheers Andy, just ordered a set and will give it a try.

 

[sumplug]

Cheers Andy, just ordered a set and will give it a try.

What ever you do, do not rush the job. Gently does it. Try a bit of penetrating oil first. good luck

Andy.

 

[thepottleflump]

Rush jobs, that's how I screwed it up in the first place , so will be taking time to remove, can't have it shearing off again or there will be a very cheap Tipo appear on ebay in the near future. Definately will be spraying plenty of lub, the ritual shall start tomorrow and removal attempted at weekend. Must get down Fiat to pickup some new studs.

 

[tipoboy]

when i had the problem i ran the engine for a while befroe doin the job, yea i burned myself to hell but the bolt came out a lot easier, just a suggestion

 

[sumplug]

when i had the problem i ran the engine for a while befroe doin the job, yea i burned myself to hell but the bolt came out a lot easier, just a suggestion

NO no no no!!!!!! Metal expands when hot and it can make the job a lot harder as metal's molicules alter when hot and they can go brittle. Always do when cold.

Andy.

 

[sediciRich]

Well speaking from experience I'd get the blow lamp out and heat the ****t out of it, having lubed it first. I take its the end furthest from the engine? If the other side of the thread is expose try and clean that off, or cut it back if you can reasonably get to it. Although on my old flexi section I tried all this, in the end I had to cut of the welded on threads.

rich

 

[sumplug]

If you ever tried removing manifolds on a Mini A series engine, you will know about broken studs. They always break no matter what. Best way, is to pre-soak the studs over night and then try undoing them. Sometimes running the nut back and forth will stop it from snapping. But if all fails and its an old car with well rusted threads, heating it up carefully and well lubing will help, but it can also make the stud brittle, so beaware of it.

Andy.