General Rear suspensions

[Enzo]

Hello...never tired of asking for advices!!The problem I've lately noticed is such a noise coming from the rear side of the car, especially when driving on slightly damaged asphalt...and I underline SLIGHTLY...because when the road is very bad I cannot notice it for the general din!!I took a look to the shock absorbers and no leaks on them...rocked them with hand to check for unscrewed bolts but they seemed ok[xx(]...does anyone know if the rear susp. has silent blocks or anything which could be worn enough to cause this noise???

 

[DevilRoad]

Are your rear system the Omega style?
If so.. check the rear brake cables... could be from there....

 

[John H]

Check also the bushes on the rear shock absorbers.

Check also the exhaust mounting rubbers and exhaust clearance from the bodywork.

Check also how secure the rear seat is in its top mounting clips/brackets.

 

[Enzo]

This morning I unscrewed the bottom s. absorber's bolt, and I found a rubber bush which seemed a little damaged...could it be the cause of metal to metal contact[!]?I checked the rear seat mountings too, and I taped them to be sure they won't cause any noises!The exhaust has been replaced recently...btw I rocked the pipe for bodywork contact, but it seemed ok... can you scan the manual's pages for the rear omega axle[?] Thanks...!

 

[John H]

The rubber bushes keep the metal of the shock absorber separate from the mounting bolts.
(I'm sure they do something clever for the suspension too, but I don't know what..)

One of the many noises my Panda used to have was caused by set of bushes which had been sprayed with something - and they were just a sticky mess[:0]

The handbrake cables had been interfered with too: plastic tie-wraps holding then onto the trailing arms, or whatever they're called with the omega set-up..

Will see what I can find in the books when I can get at them - but I'm at work now, and rather a lot this next week or so.

FWIW the shock absorbers are held on with a nut and bolt top and bottom, and there are two (sort of truncated cone shaped) bushes on each end.

You don't even need to jack the car up to change them.

But if you do jack it up, get the suspension in its loaded up position before you finish tightening the nuts up when you put it back together: the bushes will be quieter, and last longer.

 

[Enzo]

"FWIW the shock absorbers are held on with a nut and bolt top and bottom, and there are two (sort of truncated cone shaped) bushes on each end."

Are you sure there are two pieces of rubber on EACH end
[:0][?] When I removed the bottom bolt and the nut I saw only one rubber cone...maybe I didn't look very well!Btw I'm going to the parts shop to ask for those bushes...hope they're sold separately from the s.absorbersB)!

P.S. thanks again for the pages...they're always useful!!

 

[John H]

No, sorry, I meant there are 4 on each shock absorber:
two at each end, assembled thus-

(bush)-(shock absorber)-(bush)
(middle of shock-absorber here)
(bush)-(shock absorber)-(bush)

 

[Enzo]

I bought the bushes and replaced the 4 ones on the right s.absorber and surprise...the noise now is louderB)!I noticed one of the cones hasn't filled its "hole" very well, it's a bit deformed around the nut:I...I think I have to unscrew the bolts again tomorrow!BTW I understood which the problem is due to!

 

[Enzo]

Latest news: after replacing all the eight bushes on both the s.absorbers and checked the whole real axle for worn components I noticed the noise hasn't disappeared but...I've paid more attention and I noticed it seems to be produced by something INSIDE the car, which chatters when running but not when the car's shaked by hands!This morning I'll try to screw the fuel tank's bolts and the rear seat again...the noise is maddeningB)!

Having both the rear wheels dismantled I decided to bleed the rear brakes and...now the pedal's got a much better feeling and the efficiency's undoubtely increased[8D]!I remember the rear cylinders have been done 2 years ago, that's why the fluid appeared clear, but I advice to check the brakes even if you notice a slight difference of their "power"!!

 

[John H]

I'd forgotten how much I had to do to get rid of (most of) my rattles and clonks...

I also swapped the rear seat catches with the Y10 rears I couldn't make fit: they are really tight on the locating pegs - the ones that were original were that bit loose, and when it all starts to flex a bit - it would rattle.

Comment below added 7-12-2003

Another funny noise, which I haven't cured on mine, is the drivers door moving about due to worn hinges

Open the door a bit, get hold of the outer edge and lift..
all that movement causes the lock mechanism to chatter about on the locating pin in the door frameB)

If you re-adjust the door to tighten it on the rubber seal in the frame it will quieten down, but you end up slamming the door...


I'm sure between LHD and RHD markets there must be good "passenger" hinges which could be swapped

 

[PandaManPaul]

John - Is that a Y10 or a Panda pneumatic strut you have there? Mine is an original Fiat black thing, and is starting to wear out . I'm pushing the boot up the last four inches [V]

 

[John H]

It's the strut that came with the Panda - I don't know if a Y10 strut is the same or not:
the further up you get from the floor pan the more different they are...

FWIW my strut is problematic when the weather is coldB)

 

[PandaManPaul]

Thanks John

I'll go and have another look at mine...

 

[Enzo]

The noise didn't disappear, and since the whole suspension has been checked/all the bushes replaced,I'll inspect inside the right brake drum...today I've noticed the handbrake locks only the left wheel, so I think it's time to take a look to the mechanism[xx(]!Anyone has scanned pages from the Haynes or others[?]

 

[Enzo]

B)B)...I'm on this topic again...and the noise didn't disappear yet[}]!I opened the right drum as described in the Haynes pages someone sent me (...), to check if the shoes were moving inside but all seemed ok!Even the bearing didn't show problems, when pulling and pushing the wheel with the car on the jack...so, what am I to check now[!][?]

This afternoon a friend of mine stood outside the car while I was moving it very slowly, and he heard a metallic noise from the wheel, so I think it's the bearing which sounds bad only under load|)...I know it's quite a simple job to replace it,but I'd like to get advices to avoid unuseful operations!

 

[John H]

In this part of the world the hubs are very expensive (probably around the 100 Euro mark) so I'd want to be really sure the hub was the cause of the noise.
TBH I can't see how it would do that without some other (bad) symptoms too: it's totally sealed and not adjustable.

In amongst the many funny noises I've had with FIATs.. (yawn) If you have the fancy wheel trims which are held on with three of the four wheel bolts - they can fidget about and make odd creaking noises.

So I suppose to take the trim(s) off and try again has got to be worth a go.

Another thing to do if that fails is to put your spare wheel on instead - in case the ( ten year old? ) wheel is damaged or rusting through the welds[:0]

Also making sure the wheel bolts are correctly tightened up - you wouldn't want to be doing 150 km/h and have a wheel come off!


Regards

John H

 

[Enzo]

I've been running without the rims and with the spare wheel, but the noise remained the same[xx(]!Then I've the small rims on my Panda, they cover only the nuts "area", and are not bolted but just fitted.I know the typical "rolling" noise of the failed bearings, and my one doesn't make it, but I hear a sort of metallic beating coming from the rear right side...also checked the fuel tank bolts and the fill up pipe, but they seemed ok.Now, I've the new hub in my garage,waiting to be fitted...it costed me 19€ and it's not an SKF or other well-known brands, but the shop has been advised I'll give it back if it won't solve the problem!I don't like to waste my money:I

 

[John H]

Originally posted by Enzo
I've the new hub in my garage,waiting to be fitted...it costed me 19€ and it's not an SKF or other well-known brands, but the shop has been advised I'll give it back if it won't solve the problem!I don't like to waste my money:I

That's incredible[:0]

I'm pretty sure the Panda hubs are about 60 UKP each..

To take it back after it's been fitted as well.


I'm stunned.

 

[Enzo]

Thanks for the pics John, but I got them an hour ago...while the hub has been replaced yesterday evening!The only thing I needed was a long lever, but apart from that it's been an easy job!But the noise is still hereB)[!]!!!Today I'm going to check the reaction rods' bushes, even if I read on the Haynes pages that they are to be whole replaced as single bushes are not sold separately;the other thing that makes me suspicious is a contact between the s.absorbers "cylinders"...is it possible!?

 

[weta]

Enzo: Try removing the rear seat, parcel shelf and other loose objects. Then get a friend to drive the car while you sit in the back and listen out for the noise. I've done this on a couple of occasions with great success.