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theres a post on here somewhere with pictures and proceeedure-the springs are upside down in the picture though according to my mechanic!
Technical Koni damper experiment thread
- Thread starter rturner
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Technical Koni damper experiment thread
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Thx a lot. I have done exactly the same thing with the rear bumpstops but it's not enough. I try to find bigger soft bumpstops and build a smaller plastic part myself. When i find the time to build them i post some pictures.
randysbits
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Last time i enquired about new bump stops, the diesel ones are much shorter, and significantly cheaper ! from memory, the standard ones listed for a 100 is something like £27, PER SIDE !!!
Last time i enquired about new bump stops, the diesel ones are much shorter, and significantly cheaper ! from memory, the standard ones listed for a 100 is something like £27, PER SIDE !!!
^^ yeah, thats what I did. no issues at all and theyve been on for nearly 20k
It's been a few months with the koni's on. Thought an update may be useful.
The rear is just about perfect, and I'll leave the adjustables just as they are (about a 0.5 turn).
Not so convinced about the STRs on the front. Wish I could tigthen them just a little bit - under certain conditions I get a slight "float" which can be a bit un-nerving at first.. although I'm now used to it and the car does stick.
The rear is just about perfect, and I'll leave the adjustables just as they are (about a 0.5 turn).
Not so convinced about the STRs on the front. Wish I could tigthen them just a little bit - under certain conditions I get a slight "float" which can be a bit un-nerving at first.. although I'm now used to it and the car does stick.
thanks for the update I would have always said to go for the proper koni's all round
I would have always said to go for the proper koni's all round babbo_umbro
Established member
My rear Konis are on 3/4 of a turn and I may just back them off a smidgeon to see how that feels. Still on standard fronts though about to take the plunge. My preference is for the adjustables but I'm not sure the droplink problem was ever cleared up in this thread. My 100HP (58 reg) still has the originals at 41000 miles and exactly four years (and still has original brake pads all round). Did the later design - with pins on ball joints both on the same side - cause the interference between strut and link on lock/prevent it/no difference? Is the best answer to have links made up to the old design - ball joints in alternate directions - with better materials?
Car is currently snug in the garage in Devon pending return from Italy - booked in for MOT and major service the day after we get back - timing belt, water pump, etc, replace bump stops if necessary, etc - I'll post a thread with any useful updates.
Car is currently snug in the garage in Devon pending return from Italy - booked in for MOT and major service the day after we get back - timing belt, water pump, etc, replace bump stops if necessary, etc - I'll post a thread with any useful updates.
Sounds like a very well maintained car, wouldn't expect any less from you though
I did the oil and filters on the Panda last week. It's going in next week to get the gearbox and diff oil done, clutch fluid, brake fluid, rear pads, rear discs, bonnet cable replaced as it's sticky and coolant flushed and replaced with Paraflu UP.
Even though I'm not sure I'll keep the Panda past the winter I still reckon it pays to spend a bit extra and maintain it properly.
stationary traveller
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The original drop links are the ones with the mounting studs on the same side,these are the ones that they stopped making in 2009 in think. The new design are the ones with the opposing studs and fit ok with the oem dampers but they do catch the side of the koni sports when the wheels are turned. I just had mine done and the solution was to put a slight bend in the drop link this allows it to clear the side of the damper when the wheels are on full lock. Still got a front end rattle though! Back to the drawing board.
Did you put the original damper protective covers onto the Konis? Mine don't fit well and rattle - need to tighten with some zip ties, hoping that will sort it.
babbo_umbro
Established member
I obviously got the versions mixed up - thanks for the clarification. Would the original - ie studs on the same side - solve/not suffer from the problem? If so, I'll get a specialist to make me some drop links to that pattern but using better ball joints.
babbo_umbro
Established member
Sounds like a very well maintained car, wouldn't expect any less from you though
I did the oil and filters on the Panda last week. It's going in next week to get the gearbox and diff oil done, clutch fluid, brake fluid, rear pads, rear discs, bonnet cable replaced as it's sticky and coolant flushed and replaced with Paraflu UP.
Even though I'm not sure I'll keep the Panda past the winter I still reckon it pays to spend a bit extra and maintain it properly.
I do like things to be done properly - fortunately, there's a small garage in Winkleigh, mid Devon, where they've maintained my cars for the last twenty years and that I trust completely. Years ago I used to do all my own servicing, and quite a lot of modifying - right back to Fiat 600s/500s (with BMW flat twin engine), and Alfas - but can't be fagged these days. Also, the high level of computerisation makes DIY tricky. I worked for AC Cars for a time, when we were making the Cobra, and they set very high standards. Apart from just wanting things to be done correctly, from a safety and satisfaction angle, doing at least one 3-5000 mile trip per year poor maintenance is false economy.
Babbo Umbro, if you want some decent droplinks then talk to jnoiles. He made his own rose jointed ones to go with the Bilstein coilovers he put on his 500. Can't remember how much the parts came to but I don't seem to remember them being incredibly expensive
Here are the ones Jason made
stationary traveller
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Yes it seems that when koni made the sport dampers for the panda they were made to accept the original style drop links so they just bolt straight on,however the redesigned drop links just dont have enough clearance when bolted on to the konis but are fine on the stock dampers due i think to a slightly angled mounting bracket and maybe a narrower damper as an earlier post has already stated.
So yes if you can get a pair custom made to the original spec that would be ideal, just check the clearance when the steering is full lock while the wheel is still off.
So yes if you can get a pair custom made to the original spec that would be ideal, just check the clearance when the steering is full lock while the wheel is still off.
stationary traveller
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Well i got a mechanic to swap them over for me so i dont know but its more of a drop link kind of chatter when you are turning over slightly uneven road surface its fine in a straight line! I was wondering if it might be where the anti roll bar is attached to the chassis?
Babbo Umbro, if you want some decent droplinks then talk to @jnoiles. He made his own rose jointed ones to go with the Bilstein coilovers he put on his 500. Can't remember how much the parts came to but I don't seem to remember them being incredibly expensive
From McGill motorsports on eBay (uk):
180851727933 M10 x 1.5 mm Half Nuts / Lock Nuts Right Hand - Pack of 1014.75 GBP4.75 GBP
160561203053 M10 x 1.5 mm Half Nuts left hand pack of 1014.75 GBP4.75 GBP
380444144576 Sealing Boot for M10 and M12 Male and Female rose joint, rod end Dust Cover43.90 GBP15.60 GBP
160465862236 M10 Male Left Hand thread HIGH PERFORMANCE Rose Joint27.25 GBP14.50 GBP
180544075604 M10 Male Right Hand thread HIGH PERFORMANCE Rose Joint27.25 GBP14.50 GBP
180790423987 Turnbuckle M10 Link. Adjustable from 300 mm to 340 mm26.70 GBP13.40 GBP
Subtotal: £67.50 GBP
Which you assemble and end up with these:
From McGill motorsports on eBay (uk):
180851727933 M10 x 1.5 mm Half Nuts / Lock Nuts Right Hand - Pack of 1014.75 GBP4.75 GBP
160561203053 M10 x 1.5 mm Half Nuts left hand pack of 1014.75 GBP4.75 GBP
380444144576 Sealing Boot for M10 and M12 Male and Female rose joint, rod end Dust Cover43.90 GBP15.60 GBP
160465862236 M10 Male Left Hand thread HIGH PERFORMANCE Rose Joint27.25 GBP14.50 GBP
180544075604 M10 Male Right Hand thread HIGH PERFORMANCE Rose Joint27.25 GBP14.50 GBP
180790423987 Turnbuckle M10 Link. Adjustable from 300 mm to 340 mm26.70 GBP13.40 GBP
Subtotal: £67.50 GBP
Which you assemble and end up with these:
Oh and drop me a PM if you do and I'll send you the right sized and graded bolts. When I bought them I had to buy in a lot of 100. Same with the locknuts.
