Technical Inner CV joint boot replacement

[Maxbumpo]

Greetings all,

I've got to replace the inner boot on the left side axle (all the oil from the gearbox just runs out of the split in the boot).

Challenge: I don't have any book to guide me, I've got to fly to where the car is, so I've got to carry my tools there and "get'R done". Tools weigh a good bit, so I don't want to carry the entire toolbox over, just the wrenches and sockets that I'll likely need.

(1) What tools are required? I watched a mechanic change the boot about ten years ago, he had the car up on a lift and only removed the axle shaft from the gear box and maybe something else, but he didn't remove the other end of the axle from the wheel carrier. Obviously the replacement boot was inferior, it didn't last very long at all, none of the other boots have damage and I'll bet they are original.

(2) Would anyone be so kind as to scan and email a copy of the appropriate pages from the Haynes manual? I've got a Haynes manual on order, but sadly I delayed too long and the manual will not arrive before I must depart.

 

[Maxbumpo]

Sorry, car is an early '90's Panda 1000. I think it is a '92 or '93.

 

[Dragon Man]

hmm from memory you need:

axle stand
2x 17mm spanners/sockets to undo lower suspension
15mm/19mm maybe.. depends on the bolts that hold the strut to the wheel hub carrier i have seen 15, 17 and 19mm bolts used..
2x 13mm.. cant remember what for but it will come in handy
30mm socket for the drive shaft nut (if you really want to take the whole drive shaft out)
10mm for brake hose clip
a way to get the new boot over the CV tripod bearing or some smaller circlip pliers so you can remove it
some kind of releasing fluid like Inox or WD-40
i'd advise to copper slip all bolts when doing them back up. you will thank me in years to come..

when i do CV boots i apply a small bit of clear instant gasket to the 2 places that the boot sits on. it just helps stop oil slightly leaking in the future.

i use really thick plastic zip ties. to get them on tight i grab them in a pair of pliers and turn them so it really squeeze the boot to the metal flange. the gasket sealant takes care of any small gaps.

that is all i think you should need. i dont think you would have to take the hub nut off unless you plan to remove the whole axle.

you may need some kind of jack to help you lift all of the things back up so you can get bolts back in.. sadly the panda jack wont cut it. it could do with being something like a little bottle jack or scissor jack.

guys, feel free to add more to this list.. its pretty late and my brain is not remembering the whole process..

 

[gimmiemorefiats]

I'm in exactly the same position as the OP.

Was just about to go outside and remove the hub nut in order to pull out the drive shaft, but according to Dragon Man (above) this might not be needed.

Can anyone clarify?

 

[panda1408]

If doing the inner boot I always remove the shaft complete. Replacing the boot and it's bearing is much easier with the shaft in a vice rather than it flopping about under the car!

 

[Dragon Man]

you dont have to take the shaft out, if you really dont want to. for what it takes in time and cost i completely rebuilt the drive shafts on my pandas.

 

[gimmiemorefiats]

I'm obviously missing something because I can't see how you could replace the boots without taking at least one end of the shaft out.

I've begun a little mission to remove the shaft, and have detached the suspension arm to let the hub assembly drop down so the shaft pulls out straight (presumably). Unfortunately I can't get the assembly to drop :bang: Presumably I'm either doing something wrong, or I'm not being violent enough...

 

[panda1408]

You need to break the taper on the lower ball joint, either with a splitter tool or some well placed hammer blows on suspension arm. Be careful not to damage the rubber boot on the ball joint.

It is possible to replace the outer boot by doing what you are and removing the shaft from the hub but leaving it in the gearbox, likewise you could leave the shaft in the hub and remove it from the gearbox to replace the inner boot. As I said just removing the shaft complete and working on it on the bench really is the easiest way though.

 

[gimmiemorefiats]

Ah, thanks. I think I get it now. I'll resume work over the weekend...

 

[firstcar-Y10]

From where you are in that picture another option is to give that hub enough movement to swing it out far enough to get the CV joint out the back. At the front of the tie bar where it meets the front cross member you can remove that bracket with 3 bolts, then undo the single bolt at the inner end of the bottom arm. That will give you enough movement to pull the whole hub assembly outwards and pull the CV out the back, then detach the flange on the inboard boot and pull it out the gearbox. When re assembling once the driveshaft is back in place make sure you put the bolt back in the bottom arm first while you've got movement at the front as it can be a pain to line up and get back in, then re-attach the tie bar bracket.

 

[Sjvarley]

Oh another method. Here.