Technical Injector Replacement 2007 panda 1.2

[Mike1alike]

You can have the injector out, put the bad one in its place so to cover the hole and plug injector on electric plug and see exactly what's happening. Is it spraying or what's going on...?!
But yes. Listening it with a screwdriver is easier. So is checking the voltage on the plug, maybe use a lamp tester, not a multimeter for that.

 

[koalar]

Try spraying carb cleaner through it and see if thst passes. Could be dirty, clogged. Feed it 12 V while doing so, so it would open.

Not good advice, on an open forum, without any warnings

The injectors are normally pulsed and cooled via fuel yet still run at approximately 50C

Being high impedance they will not die instantly

But at 1 to 2 amps draw from a car battery and a 100% duty cycle (constantly on) they are likely to get damaged at around 15 to 30 seconds, as in the iwp 160

And if this test is performed on low impedance injectors it will kill them in a second or so

You could limit the current, an incandescent test light or a 9V pp3 would limit it to around 500ma, but there is better and safer ways to achieve the same results without following the "YouTube" experts hacks

 

[Mike1alike]

I have done it on my IPW095 injectors and nothing bad happened. Just cleaned them.

 

[lsmith12345]

Not good advice, on an open forum, without any warnings

The injectors are normally pulsed and cooled via fuel yet still run at approximately 50C

Being high impedance they will not die instantly

But at 1 to 2 amps draw from a car battery and a 100% duty cycle (constantly on) they are likely to get damaged at around 15 to 30 seconds, as in the iwp 160

And if this test is performed on low impedance injectors it will kill them in a second or so

You could limit the current, an incandescent test light or a 9V pp3 would limit it to around 500ma, but there is better and safer ways to achieve the same results without following the "YouTube" experts hacks

I have done it on my IPW095 injectors and nothing bad happened. Just cleaned them.

I think it could be wiring related. I've been looking at an old post from "superste" and he had a very similar problem, and found that if he stripped back the sheath to the wiring going to the connector on the ECU, and wiggled a wire he could get the misfire to stop. So he soldered in a new section of wire and then I think you then actually suggested to secure the two plugs into the top of the ECU down with cable ties, which someone has also done to my car, but I slipped them off to change the slave cylinder, where I also disconnected the ECU completely in order to get to the slave cylinder. And that fix clearly sorted the issue for who had my panda before me aswell as superste.
I am fully aware this problem occurred after I changed an injector, but the cylinder this problem is happening on now is unrelated to the one with the new injector in, that issue is sorted, I even swapped them round and still the same. This is a new problem.

So I now think before doing any more engine diagnosis I need to look at all of this, check all the wiring, and the 2 plugs connecting into the ECU. Because I may well have not put something back on properly, as I haven't driven the car since the new slave cylinder was put on.

 

[Mike1alike]

So I now think before doing any more engine diagnosis I need to look at all of this, check all the wiring, and the 2 plugs connecting into the ECU. Because I may well have not put something back on properly, as I haven't driven the car since the new slave cylinder was put on.

Check the ECU's pins first. It's possible to catch one of them when you put the plug back and push it in. If so, improper contact there and problems. That fixes usually by pulling the pin back carefully.

 

[koalar]

Wiggling the cable harness and the misfire stops

Assuming everything is plugged in correctly

There's some large multi joints within the harness which often fail. There not easy to solder successfully with most hobby soldering irons

A replacement engine harness is often the simplest solution

I know @irc has changed a fair few of these on the 1.1

Fiat Panda 1.1 stalling while driving going over humps when cold | FIAT Panda (Mk3)

I have a 2006 Fiat Panda 1.1 and the engine just stalls while driving. If a gear is engaged the car will jolt and the engine continues running, the engine management light briefly comes on but goes away just as quickly, but if a gear isn't engaged or I have the clutch pressed the engine stalls...

www.fiatforum.com

 

[lsmith12345]

Wiggling the cable harness and the misfire stops

Assuming everything is plugged in correctly

There's some large multi joints within the harness which often fail. There not easy to solder successfully with most hobby soldering irons

A replacement engine harness is often the simplest solution


View attachment 484796

I know @irc has changed a fair few of these on the 1.1

Fiat Panda 1.1 stalling while driving going over humps when cold | FIAT Panda (Mk3)

I have a 2006 Fiat Panda 1.1 and the engine just stalls while driving. If a gear is engaged the car will jolt and the engine continues running, the engine management light briefly comes on but goes away just as quickly, but if a gear isn't engaged or I have the clutch pressed the engine stalls...

www.fiatforum.com

Well we'll have to see if that wiring near the sheath is the problem. That's what superste found, and that same issue could be happening with mine.
As I said, there has definitely been injector trouble with mine in the past as the ECU plugs were cable tied down as advised on that old thread. I had to take it all off to change the slave cylinder, and then put it back together, and then when I next started it up a couple months after is when the broken injector AND other misfire started. Hopefully soon I can get to the car, and have a good look, as I didn't look at any of that part when I was trying to diagnose the issue last time. To be honest I'm hoping I've put one of the plugs in wrong in a rush, or bent one of the pins slightly, etc and that taking it all off, pulling back any bent pins and checking the wiring and putting it all back on is going to fix it. The wiring harness was clearly already fragile on mine, and I might've just made a mistake somewhere as it was pouring it down with rain when I was putting it all back together, and still quite cold outside. So I did rush a bit
Thanks for this diagram.

 

[koalar]

You have to gentle when trying to find the wiring fault, especially around the ECU plugs

If you stumble on the YouTube video from years ago

Read through the comment, you will see they turned a simple common fault into requiring the ECU to be sent away for repair

I know of one genuine faulty ECU and that was in a hot country and they lived on top of a high mountain

I know of at least half a dozen that were fully working fine until it was damaged while repairing there cars, including.one.that was only undone doing a service and the pin for the oil pressure switch got broken off

Which is why I no longer link the YouTube video

And try everything before asking anyone to unpluging the ECU

Cable tying the connectors often works, as a semi permanent repair.it's cost effective, cheap and easy, but it will not fix the underlying problem,

If it's further down the loom, it will.be where the 7 wires join together, its a.common.failure.point more.so.on the 1.1.althougjh some.1.2 share the same harness.part number

There's a lot of copper conducting the heat away

Getting a good reliable joint.idealy requires a big solderim .iron

Which is.whynfor.most.people.a.s/h replacement is.often a better choice

 

[lsmith12345]

You have to gentle when trying to find the wiring fault, especially around the ECU plugs

If you stumble on the YouTube video from years ago

Read through the comment, you will see they turned a simple common fault into requiring the ECU to be sent away for repair

I know of one genuine faulty ECU and that was in a hot country and they lived on top of a high mountain

I know of at least half a dozen that were fully working fine until it was damaged while repairing there cars, including.one.that was only undone doing a service and the pin for the oil pressure switch got broken off

Which is why I no longer link the YouTube video

And try everything before asking anyone to unpluging the ECU

Cable tying the connectors often works, as a semi permanent repair.it's cost effective, cheap and easy, but it will not fix the underlying problem,

If it's further down the loom, it will.be where the 7 wires join together, its a.common.failure.point more.so.on the 1.1.althougjh some.1.2 share the same harness.part number

There's a lot of copper conducting the heat away

Getting a good reliable joint.idealy requires a big solderim .iron

View attachment 484881


Which is.whynfor.most.people.a.s/h replacement is.often a better choice

Thank you for informing me about that.
I’ve had no choice but to take the ECU off countless times for fixes, so I just need to be very careful, I always have been as I’m aware of how easy they are to break.

 

[lsmith12345]

Thank you for informing me about that.
I’ve had no choice but to take the ECU off countless times for fixes, so I just need to be very careful, I always have been as I’m aware of how easy they are to break.

You have to gentle when trying to find the wiring fault, especially around the ECU plugs

If you stumble on the YouTube video from years ago

Read through the comment, you will see they turned a simple common fault into requiring the ECU to be sent away for repair

I know of one genuine faulty ECU and that was in a hot country and they lived on top of a high mountain

I know of at least half a dozen that were fully working fine until it was damaged while repairing there cars, including.one.that was only undone doing a service and the pin for the oil pressure switch got broken off

Which is why I no longer link the YouTube video

And try everything before asking anyone to unpluging the ECU

Cable tying the connectors often works, as a semi permanent repair.it's cost effective, cheap and easy, but it will not fix the underlying problem,

If it's further down the loom, it will.be where the 7 wires join together, its a.common.failure.point more.so.on the 1.1.althougjh some.1.2 share the same harness.part number

There's a lot of copper conducting the heat away

Getting a good reliable joint.idealy requires a big solderim .iron

View attachment 484881


Which is.whynfor.most.people.a.s/h replacement is.often a better choice

I’ve had a look at everything and at least one of the injectors appear to now be stuck open I’d say, or too much petrol coming through due to the amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust. I’ve never seen a car run so rich in my life. The misfire is still there also. To be honest I think that the loom has been tampered with too much by who has tried to fix it because they’ve just opened it up, gone into it, spliced a bunch of wires and made a complete mess of it. And caused this new issue of way to much petrol coming through. They’ve spliced into multiple wires and extended (all of the red joins you can see and then joining into a yellow one).
I’ll attach a picture of it (zoom in to spot all the dodgy wiring) Any ideas of if/where I can buy a loom for it? And/or what has occurred with the wiring and how it could be possibly rectified?
Checked the ECU plugs and secured them, and unfortunately not the issue just to put it out there