Technical How to push-back the rear brake Caliper Cylinder of Linea t-Jet

[Navin Talati]

Dear Friends,
My car is Fiat Linea T-Jet 1.4 (petrol), Emotion, 2014 F/L Model India.
It has all the four Disk-brakes. To replace the rear brake pads, I opened the right side (right hand drive) rear wheel brake-caliper. removed the old pads, cleaned all around the caliper and pad-holder. To insert the new pads, more space is required and for the the brake caliper cylinder is to be pushed in.
I tried to wind it clockwise as well as anticlockwise. Also allowed the fluid to bleed from the nipple. Also kept the reservoir (in engine room) open/loosely closed. The had brake was not engaged. With all these variation, Despite efforts of more then an hour or so, I could not be able to push the cylinder in even a little-bit! I am attaching some pics of this.
I think, I am missing something in the process and so I am following some wrong procedure.

Could you please guide me how to push this caliper cylinder IN ?
Does it requires detaching the hand-brake cable?
Should I insert the ignition key in? On which mark should I keep it? (I think, the engine is not required to start).

A prompt and positive response is eagerly awaited. Please help me.
regards.
Navin Talati /12-01-2025

 

[Greasytrucker]

It could just be the fact that you are trying to retract the piston using circlip pliers rather than a proper brake rewind tool, rear calipers can be stubborn to get started even with the correct tool. If it’s starting to seize you’ll be doing well to get it to budge with the current tools you’re using

 

[Navin Talati]

Sir,
Thanks for the prompt reply.
I tried with other ways also which exerts pushing pressure using nose plyer and other way as shown in the attached pictures.
But even a fraction of mm could not be pushed.
please also throw some light on my following queries:
1.Does it requires detaching the hand-brake cable?
2. Should I insert the ignition key in? On which mark should I keep it? (I think, the engine is not required to start).
regards.

 

[Zardo]

My car is Fiat Linea T-Jet 1.4 (petrol), Emotion, 2014 F/L Model India.
It has all the four Disk-brakes. To replace the rear brake pads, I opened the right side (right hand drive) rear wheel brake-caliper. removed the old pads, cleaned all around the caliper and pad-holder. To insert the new pads, more space is required and for the the brake caliper cylinder is to be pushed in.

Remove the cover of the handbrake.
Loosen the handbrake lever cable adjustement nut a bit.
Disconnect the handbrake cable from the brake caliper.
It should be sufficient to only remove the brake caliper lower fixing bolt in order to turn and secure the caliper.

I tried to wind it clockwise as well as anticlockwise. Also allowed the fluid to bleed from the nipple. Also kept the reservoir (in engine room) open/loosely closed. The had brake was not engaged.

I don't think you need to open the brake fluid reservoir for this.
Fiat has a special tool for retracting the rear disk brake caliper cylinders, however if you can put something in the holes and turn it, this should do it.

Should I insert the ignition key in? On which mark should I keep it? (I think, the engine is not required to start).

What for? Keep the ignition key in your pocket, please.

 

[Navin Talati]

Sir,

Thanks for the reply.

From the video, it seems that the piston should wound up very easily by a nose plier or similar some device. It is not happening in my case. May be the press force by hand insufficient! - I think so . So. I have placed an order for "Universal Brake Caliper Piston Rewind Kit" which is likely to receive on Monday. - Shell try with it and let you know the out come.

I have also observed that pressing and releasing the ratchet brackets, the piston moves outward. But somehow, it is not going back by turning it clockwise by a nose plier as narrated above.
Still I have kept the handbrake cable at its position and not removed from the pulling-back bracket mounted on the caliper.

I am attaching some photos for your ready reference and information.

 

[Zardo]

Iˋm not a mechanic. But at this point, I suggest three approaches:

1. With the handbrake cable still connected, refit the caliber without the brake pads. Have a friend pull the handbrake all the way (without using excessive force) once while you observe if the jack screw mecanism pushes the piston out. This might actually help it break free and will push the piston out one step. However, there is always a risk that using force might break the jack screw mecanism if the piston is seized because it has corroded.

If the procedure is successfull, it might be easier to rotate the piston back in afterwards.

2. Remove the caliber entirely from the car and push the piston out manually like in the video, using the jack screw mecanism. This is a more carefull approach. Maybe it won’t push out, if it has seized. If it does, rotate the piston back in.

3. Wait for your piston rewind tool to arrive.

If nothing works, you likely need to either rebuild the caliper (if aftermarket rebuild parts are still available), or get a fitting new (or used) caliper. Maybe from a junkyard or specialized dealers.

 

[the green vanper]

In my opinion the cylinder is seized. Probably was left for too long with the hand brake on, or the mechanism is somehow locked, could also be the handbrake wire that is seized.

Brakes are vital for driving security, if such thing happened on one caliper, it seems all of them need cleaning (also under the rubber protection, but the pistons cannot be fully taken out from the calipers), lubrication (with a lube that does not damage rubber, there are specialized products). The DOT4 fluid used in braking systems is highly higroscopic, requires to be changed on a regular basis (2 to maximum 4 years) to maintain its properties and assure proper braking. The fluid has to be pushed out of all the brake lines until the rear end. In cars equipped with ABS the process is a little bit more complicated.

There are surely some videos on youtube showing the operations. I'd also stick to the workshop manual for the appropriate model to make it the proper way.

 

[Navin Talati]

Thanks Sir, @#7, and ALL earlier.

I also suspect that somewhere and somehow the caliper cylinder is seized. But how and from where it could have been happened is again an issue for me. May be I am missing some understandings and the mechanism's concepts.

My car is already in regular use. It is almost fully self-maintained. I regularly replace its Engine oil (yearly), Coolant (bi-yearly), Brake fluid (bi-yearly), All filters (oil, fuel, air etc) regularly as prescribed by Fiat and recommended Brands. I also replace the fluid in clutch slave cylinder too (location on the gearbox). I hardly uses handbrake while parking on flat surface.

The caliper cylinder is not rusted, as I checked under its rubber boot. It seems quite shining. Back side bracket (holding the handbrake cable) is also moving upon pulling & releasing (through handbrake handle as well as by plier).

I have also seen many videos on net too, and the activity is going on...Sir.

The cylinder is also turning clockwise as well as anticlockwise through long nose plier or similar tool when applied on notches given on it for the turning. BUT it is not moving inward...!! I assume at this stage that... may be the force applied by my hand to push it IN may be insufficient.

OR

I am not properly understanding the mechanism to rewind the brake caliper piston........I doubt, some minor (and invisible to me) culprit is there.

Requested to throw some more light on detail pertaining to the issue.

Regards to all.
Navin Talati.

 

[Zardo]

Just to be precise: if you open the bleed nipple, as you said you did, there's no need to open the brake/clutch fluid reservoir.

But if the brake/clutch fluid system is closed, of course there's no way to push back against an incompressible liquid.

Also, if you don't open the bleed nipple on the caliper, you should at least open the brake/clutch fluid reservoir lid, which seems to be the preferred way anyway, unless you also intend to replace the clutch/brake fluid whilst doing your brake pad change.

If you don't open the brake/clutch fluid reservoir, you would compress the air between the lid and the fluid. Air is compressible, but it would still unnecessarily add to the force needed.

Here's How To Use a Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool

But how do you use a brake caliper wind back tool? Let us explain. But how do you use a brake caliper wind back tool? Let us explain.

www.thedrive.com

Also, at least for my car (Punto Evo), the Fiat tool comes with two special bolts and brackets, one with a left-hand thread and the other with a right-hand thread.

Using the special tool, retract the rear brake caliper cylinders.

1. Tighten the bolt to the bracket with the right hand thread, then insert the tool and secure it using the bolt. The tool assembled in this way should only be used on the right rear brake caliper tightening it in a clockwise direction to retract the brake caliper cylinder.

Tighten the bolt to the bracket with the left hand thread, then insert the tool and secure it using the bolt. The tool assembled in this way should only be used on the left rear brake caliper tightening it in an anti-clockwise direction to retract the brake caliper cylinder.

 

[Navin Talati]

Friends,

Thanks to you all for the prompt and valuable guidance point to point regarding my difficulties in the process of replacing rear brake pads on DIY basis. I would have not been able to succeed the captioned job. I am updating the matter as under:

1. I could procure the "Universal Brake Caliper Piston Rewind Kit" as mentioned in #5. It is a right side screw (i.e. it pushes the piston upon clockwise turning).

2. I could be able to push the piston with the help of this tool easily and replaced the brake pads on the rear right side wheel. The fluid nipple was used to bleed the brake oil while pressing. Again the air was also removed by pumping through brake pedal pressing-releasing repeatedly. Did proper lubrication also. Checked hand brake and pedal brake effect on wheel in stationary condition and then took a little round in the car. As of now it seems ok.

3. I am attaching the photos of the job.

Still I have to replace the brake pads of other wheel (i.e. Left side rear wheel). I have not opened the Rear Left Wheel still because I afraid whether the same tool will work for rewinding the caliper piston of it (i.e. left side wheel)! - Should it require the other Brake Caliper Piston Rewind Kit having left side screw (i.e. which pushes the piston upon anticlockwise turning)? Only the screw for this (i.e. except pressure plate and stud fixing round chuck) is available?

Once again thanks to all.....With best regards.
Navin Talati / 19-01-2025

 

[Zardo]

Friends,

Still I have to replace the brake pads of other wheel (i.e. Left side rear wheel). I have not opened the Rear Left Wheel still because I afraid whether the same tool will work for rewinding the caliper piston of it (i.e. left side wheel)! - Should it require the other Brake Caliper Piston Rewind Kit having left side screw (i.e. which pushes the piston upon anticlockwise turning)? Only the screw for this (i.e. except pressure plate and stud fixing round chuck) is available?

Once again thanks to all.....With best regards.
Navin Talati / 19-01-2025

For 110 Linea - India:

Tool	Description	Function	Validity
1856134000	Spanner	Retracting rear caliper cylinders	1.4 16v TJET

Looks like it is only one type of screw with only one plate.

It's not the same tool as for my car (which comes with two plates and two screws) so what I said above does not apply to you!

I guess your tool will actually work on both sides on the Idea (clockwise turn).

 

[The Panda Nut]

You will need two tools a left and a rihght hand thread. One isde will windin antic lockwise You can use pliers but it will be very difficult as back pressure is also requjired and without a tool you will likely hurnt yourself. Suitable tools are cheap and freely available on eBay. Universal tools like the one you (and I have will only do one side. These are also a poor fit on the Fiat calipers. I bought a full kit a few years back for about 20 euro. Worth every penny. If thenpiston reaches the end of its ravel due to worn disc and pads it can require a bit of a shock to start it off backwards. Do not over wind it out wards or you will have trouble if it pops over the end of the thread internally its hard to get these to go back. Go slow and watch that the piston is going in and not out when you wind the tool. If its going out STOP and get a lefthand thread tool!!!

 

[the green vanper]

I'm afraid that driving with a good brake on one side and a poor one on the other side can very easily lead to a spin on a slippery road.

 

[Navin Talati]

I'm afraid that driving with a good brake on one side and a poor one on the other side can very easily lead to a spin on a slippery road.

Sir,

Thanks for drawing my attention to the hidden risk which was actually out of my mind.

However, I am not going to put my car in operation/use till I replace both the rear wheels Brake pads. I have not opened the left side rear wheel brake caliper does not mean I am to use the car. The car is still stationary. I took a little round to just check my fittings only.

Once again many thanks for the information you shared......with regards. Sir.

 

[Navin Talati]

Dear Zardo,
Thanks for the clarity about the tool as per #11. I could use the same tool (used for left rear wheel brake caliper) to push back the brake caliper of right side rear wheel. I could do it successfully. Some pics are attached herewith. Both the rear wheel brake pads have been replaced by "Brembo" brand. The fitment has been tested by running the car for 60 to 70 Kms. .........Just for your information.

Further I want to have some guidance/information for following things.
1. What indicates the bulging uneven surface of rubber cover (rubber boot) around the caliper in the picture.
2. How the handbrake cables could be made free by lubrication using WD-40 or similar spray without detaching from inner side central console of the car?

Regards.

 

[Zardo]

Hi Navin,

I'm not entirely sure about this, but if the rubber seals of the brake caliper pistons are made of EPDM, then this material is supposed to be in contact with special silicon lube only as petroleum based lubricants will make this type of rubber swell and increase its volume which will cause problems after a while.

 

[Navin Talati]

Sirs,

Further guidance about undermentioned question (Ref: #15) is awaited.

2. How the handbrake cables could be made free by lubrication using WD-40 or similar spray without detaching from inner side central console of the car?

Regards.

 

[the green vanper]

Sirs,

Further guidance about undermentioned question (Ref: #15) is awaited.

2. How the handbrake cables could be made free by lubrication using WD-40 or similar spray without detaching from inner side central console of the car?

Regards.

If it's seized, take it off the car, put in a can of kerosene, let it penetrate, then moving the cable inside the armour clean the residues of dirt and rust, then apply a lubrifiant (could be engine oil) and reinstall on the car.

 

[Zardo]

Sirs,

Further guidance about undermentioned question (Ref: #15) is awaited.

2. How the handbrake cables could be made free by lubrication using WD-40 or similar spray without detaching from inner side central console of the car?

Regards.

First of all, WD-40 (classic) is not a lubricant, it's a dissolvent. It will evaporate in 24 h and the very next day, no lubrication is left.



If you're talking about local corrosion of the handbrake cable insertion on the brake caliber, try an anti-corrosion spray, ideally with the brake pads and the caliber removed, as you wouldn't want the spray penetrate between the disk and the brake pads (clean the disk with brake cleaner afterwards on BOTH sides, anyway).

The alternative is to cut the old cable, remove the center console handbrake cover (only the cover, not the entire console) and install a new handbrake cable. However, for this procedure, full access under the car is needed.